What are you doing to your rig - the continuing saga

[YELLAHEEP]

did we adopt Kastein into our chapter or some thing?

I know right? Friggin' chatty Cathy around here.......

 

[YELLAHEEP]

So..... Today I was bound and determined to get this damn D300 divorced from the AX15.... One way or another, no ifs, ands or buts...... Even if it involved explosives.......

No, I wasn't kidding when I said that damn thing was STUCK.......

Yep. That's a come-a-long chained to the axle. Another chain around the t-case..... All that did was pull it off canter and bind it worse.

So, a pair of u-bolt cap straps, a solid bar and a Clevis allowed me to get a straight pull on it.....

The tension was so great that the engine valve cover was pressed against the firewall pulling against the engine mounts. I left 3 t-case nuts on at the end of the threads..... Ya shoulda heard the thump it made when it finally let go and hit the nuts.....

But it's out....... arty:

 

[Gunter]

you need a 50 BMG AP to get the separation

 

[Digger87xj]

Re: Re: What are you doing to your rig - the continuing saga

it made no difference . i am really out of money and massively frustrated at this point. i need to have it working so i can get plates on it. i have other things i need to repair on it but this is most important.

No change would suggest to me that there is something amiss with the sync sensor.

 

[Digger87xj]

Re: Re: What are you doing to your rig - the continuing saga

Digger, I'm looking at this and thinking...

341 square inches (stock XJ 4.0 radiator) = ~2.4 square feet
589 square inches (stock BR 5.9 radiator) = ~4.1 square feet

That's only a difference of around 1.7 square feet, 21"x12". I've seen small radiators from passenger cars that are around that big, maybe run one in tandem with the main radiator. Any thoughts on where to mount one?

Mine's going to be a pavement queen so I may be able to pick up that much area inside the fronts of the fender wells with a large heater core and a fan + ducting, but I don't think that'll work for you.

Yah...that's nearly another complete xj radiator. I'm going to chat with a guy I know that owns a radiator shop and see what his thoughts are. I'd really like to stay away from the extra engineering of adding yet more add ons to the rig that could be a possible failure point. Plumbing something that sits anywhere above the same level as the engine doesn't sound very appealing to me let alone trying to bleed and keep the system air pocket free. The BeCool radiator looks very appealing despite the cost.

 

[kastein]

did we adopt Kastein into our chapter or some thing?

:eyes:

I spent a month in Colorado on business back in 2010... sadly only ran into one CO chapter member, was pulling 10-12 hour days in a lab getting a new CPU up and running.

I am just a tech nerd and digger is doing a swap I have planned, and running into problems I expect to run into, so I figure if I learn as much as I can from his problems and maybe even help him solve them, I'll be better prepared for my own swap :gee:

 

[Hypoid]

The tension was so great that the engine valve cover was pressed against the firewall pulling against the engine mounts.

You were going to replace those anyway. :gee:

 

[Kiefer316]

I left before the gettin got good. Haha I didn't wanna see the outcome if it ended badly. Glad ya got it out tho troy. Hope I can get some cash to pick that mj up though.

 

[Gunter]

No change would suggest to me that there is something amiss with the sync sensor.

sorry which is the sync sensor? in the distributor?

 

[Hypoid]

hmmmm
cap rotor etc?
if the dist is set wrong i can see how that can cause a ton of crap. more so if the advance is extreme and too far. as in firing with an open exh valve and burning the crap down the pipe and not in the cylinder. hmm i ll go check out my junk. so to speak LOL

If the timing has too much advance, the charge would light before the intake valve is closed.

Since ignition timing is controlled by the ECU, the distributor is indexed one tooth advanced. If you install the distributor with #1 cylinder at TDC, and the rotor lines up with with the #1 terminal in the cap, you have done it wrong. The rotor should be one tooth past the #1 terminal.

Here is a question for the RENIX guys: Will a RENIX even start with the distributor improperly indexed? What if the timing chain were to jump a tooth? :dunno:

 

[Hypoid]

sorry which is the sync sensor? in the distributor?

yup

 

[SeeingSpots]

So deflated....


First time up an RTI ramp today and made it about 2 feet before my left front tire mashed into the wheel well. :smsoap:

Got underneath and realized the PO jerry rigged the entire UCA's setup, and because of it, the axle sits about 4" inches too far back, not allowing the wheel to tuck evenly.

I'm so F-in mad! Guess it was better to find out now, rather than on a trail and breaking.

So my plan is to modify the current UCAs to a 3-link setup like the Rubicon Express arms. Weld mounting plates to my LCA's and running the UCA's accordingly.



Jim

 

[Gunter]

hey thanks
i guess the timing chain could be stretched....but i need to see how my dist is set. i ll check and post back.

 

[Digger87xj]

Here is a question for the RENIX guys: Will a RENIX even start with the distributor improperly indexed? What if the timing chain were to jump a tooth? :dunno:

yes, with trouble.

I doubt gunter's problem is distrib indexing. If the plugs, wires, cap and rotor are unknown condition, they need to at least be inspected, if not replaced.

Start with the basics before moving up to electronics.

 

[Gunter]

Digger my cap and rotor work...but are in need of replacement..
if some of my other stuff sells i am going to bite the bullet and get some new parts. but i cant do much now i am out of cash. thanks for all your help guys--

seriously..you guys are awesome

 

[eflores]

Pass on building y links

If you're gonna do long arms do a true three linkbecause y links bind like a Bitch
You'll chew up uca bushings like mad

So deflated....


First time up an RTI ramp today and made it about 2 feet before my left front tire mashed into the wheel well. :smsoap:

Got underneath and realized the PO jerry rigged the entire UCA's setup, and because of it, the axle sits about 4" inches too far back, not allowing the wheel to tuck evenly.

I'm so F-in mad! Guess it was better to find out now, rather than on a trail and breaking.

So my plan is to modify the current UCAs to a 3-link setup like the Rubicon Express arms. Weld mounting plates to my LCA's and running the UCA's accordingly.



Jim

 

[Frank Z]

Pass on building y links

If you're gonna do long arms do a true three linkbecause y links bind like a Bitch
You'll chew up uca bushings like mad

!!!1!!!1!!!1!!!1

Wrong....

Seems you drank the Kool-aid before checking the label.

Y-links provide more than enough flex.

Seeing Spots,
We've all heard about a certain member that damn near pissed himself when his suspension moved 1 wheel a little higher than the the other three on Grizzly Lake.....so becareful about who's advice you take.

 

[SeeingSpots]

Pass on building y links

If you're gonna do long arms do a true three linkbecause y links bind like a Bitch
You'll chew up uca bushings like mad

So something like this?



I just don't know how I'm going to attach the UCA to the body with my current set up. The way the guy initially installed this setup, leaves absolutely no room above the LCA mounting point to weld anything else.

 

[SeeingSpots]

!!!1!!!1!!!1!!!1

Wrong....

Y-links provide more than enough flex.

I'm so confused/torn now. :wierd: Someone needs to help this young man!

Jim

 

[eflores]

welcome back to Colorado chapter frank

!!!1!!!1!!!1!!!1

Wrong....

Seems you drank the Kool-aid before checking the label.

Y-links provide more than enough flex.

Seeing Spots,
We've all heard about a certain member that damn near pissed himself when his suspension moved 1 wheel a little higher than the the other three on Grizzly Lake.....so becareful about who's advice you take.

Yep that's how mine is
Y links flex, so does stock suspension, a three link like what you have pictured flexes better than both

So something like this?



I just don't know how I'm going to attach the UCA to the body with my current set up. The way the guy initially installed this setup, leaves absolutely no room above the LCA mounting point to weld anything else.