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What are you doing to your rig - the continuing saga

Real progress today!
I got the engine, trans and t-case in in one piece.
I only had 2 major pita setbacks.
1, one of the bolts holding the chain on the back of the head was hitting the firewall and making my life difficult to drop the motor in the brackets. It only took me an hour of struggling before I finally saw it!
2, those motor mounts are a bitch to get set. I'm not a fan of the Novak style of isolator. It's a major pain to get everything exactly lined up to get the shoulder of the bottom bushing to fit up into the bracket.

Here it is in its new home:
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I put the hood back on to see if any of it would work out with the truck manifold. I'm trying to decide if I'll cut a hole, do a cowl, or skip it all together and add some new tube work around it for roll protection. Jeep is getting green stickered next year. No more screwing with air care Colorado!
 
How bout both? Hole in the hood with some cool looking cage over the intake? Kinda rock bouncer looking

I'm thinking that one. A cool engine cage over it maybe.
 
Not my own rig but this weekend I rebuilt/geared 1 8.25/D30 combo to 4.56 and installed a Lock-Right locker into the 8.25. I also put 4.88's into another D30 along with Chromo shafts and new U-Joints. Next weekend I'll do the other 8.25 and be adding an Aussie Locker to it. Oh the joys of side work, how I missed thee. Oh wait.....
 
Not my own rig but this weekend I rebuilt/geared 1 8.25/D30 combo to 4.56 and installed a Lock-Right locker into the 8.25. I also put 4.88's into another D30 along with Chromo shafts and new U-Joints. Next weekend I'll do the other 8.25 and be adding an Aussie Locker to it. Oh the joys of side work, how I missed thee. Oh wait.....

Will have 8.25/D30 for you to do soon so glad you are practicing :yelclap:
 
As I get ready to do my axle swap, I looked underneath the engine compartment. I thought I only had a rear main seal leak. Turns out I have a front leak as well. So it looks like I'm going to be inspecting and probably replacing the 170K mile old timing chain in yet another "while I'm in there" projects. :smsoap:

At least I'll have the axle out so getting the oil pan off and on will be easier.

I've been reading up on getting the balancer out and that looks pretty straightforward, if a little tedious. But what accessories have to come off the front to get the timing cover off? I know on the AMC V8 you basically have to strip everything off the front as it all bolts to the cover. But what about the 4.0? It's a 2001 FWIW.
 
As I get ready to do my axle swap, I looked underneath the engine compartment. I thought I only had a rear main seal leak. Turns out I have a front leak as well. So it looks like I'm going to be inspecting and probably replacing the 170K mile old timing chain in yet another "while I'm in there" projects. :smsoap:

At least I'll have the axle out so getting the oil pan off and on will be easier.

I've been reading up on getting the balancer out and that looks pretty straightforward, if a little tedious. But what accessories have to come off the front to get the timing cover off? I know on the AMC V8 you basically have to strip everything off the front as it all bolts to the cover. But what about the 4.0? It's a 2001 FWIW.

Mostly the alternator, because of the bracket, though I usually do this job as part of a greater rebuild so everything is off anyway. Easier to clean everything up real good when its all removed... The Advance HB puller tool works fine. I use a 3/4" short wrench on it. Done it more than once this way. I let the machine shop wash the cover. Cheaper and faster than brake cleaner and a parts washer/brake cleaner at home. Purple Power eats aluminum.
 
Going to regear the Dodge to 4:56 when it becones tow only duty since it will be getting some 37s ...and need it to pull the pass like stock 31s
 
Why put 37's on it if it's going to be strictly a tow rig?

Because it looks cool...lol...and will only be driven when towing this the rubber will last . I have 33s 37s actually fit these trucks on stock wheels so it will not be getting some huge lift ...lol...I put the set of 38s on it I have sitting they are a bit wide but pretty much fit no lift . So to sum it up the tow rig needs to be. blinged up a bit .
 
Why put 37's on it if it's going to be strictly a tow rig?

You've been a way for a while Dutch. You forgot that logic has nothing to do with anything around here.
 
I had a red van in front of my house yesterday.

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A semi-retired guy named Charles Burns replaced my windshield. He got the old glass out and we saw a lot of surface rust. He won't install glass to a surface that leaks, so he tacked (easily) another hour on to his install time. He did not ask for more money, but I was sure to tip. :)

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I'm just about ready for my drive to Grand Junction.
 
Because it looks cool...lol...and will only be driven when towing this the rubber will last . I have 33s 37s actually fit these trucks on stock wheels so it will not be getting some huge lift ...lol...I put the set of 38s on it I have sitting they are a bit wide but pretty much fit no lift . So to sum it up the tow rig needs to be. blinged up a bit .

Yeah, my Ford will fit 35's with no lift and 37's can be made to fit fairly easily as well. Still, for towing purposes I'd rather stick with the stock tire size. Now if you had said, "In case I need to drag it partially up the trail to retrieve my broken Jeep." I would have accepted the logic. Now I'm just going to picture your truck as a modern diesel ricer. :D

You've been a way for a while Dutch. You forgot that logic has nothing to do with anything around here.

Mr. Spock doesn't approve.
 
33s I have look stock...lol...there would be no logic in thinking a fool size long bed on 37s could even get half way into a trail an xj on 44s would break on...I don't follow the logic of 35-37 tires equating o rice...now obnoxiously loud exhaust and stickers would be different ...I do like then flat biller style stacks .
 
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