What are you doing to your rig - the continuing saga

[DutchVDub]

Well the truck is currently at Les Schwab getting a set of Terramax A/T's in 235/85r16 flavor. 120$ a tire with a 40k warranty and the M+S designation. I figure at the price it's worth the risk.

 

[Hypoid]

Well nothing until I get the trailer registered again

GIT-R-DONE!

 

[1-tonxj]

I think it's the super duty weight. He said his were E rated.

All 3/4 ton and up full size today have E rated...10 ply duty...tires the sidewalls are stiffer as you guessed it bog pickups are heavy...lol...towing on d rated meat would be fun...hell the mud terrains I have are E but tread is like the Krawler thick anf soft they felt lime rolling on gummy bears when new, and they lasted the 15k heavy muds do as well hence needing new 12 months later.

 

[Hypoid]

New windshield soon...

 

[ThatGrimmJeeper]

A few parts showed up. I'll be busy all weekend rebuilding the Dana 44's that are going under the XJ.

 

[ROKRWLR]

I was able to sneak a little time in the garage this morning to severely limit the limited slip diff in my 10.5 project. It feels good to get something done!

The 3 axis orb of traction.

I just finished it up, and the heat radiating from it is crazy!

Ignore the rusty bearings. They are coming off. I soaked the whole diff in a bucket of simple green to get rid of all of the nasty friction modifier fluid and after I cleaned it up, the surface rust came in no time.

 

[old_man]

How many pounds of wire/rod did you use on that thing?:wow:

 

[in4aride]

That's what I need to do to my true tracs

 

[ThatGrimmJeeper]

How many pounds of wire/rod did you use on that thing?:wow:

I was going to say... It's probably safe to say that if that diff breaks, you've got a whole lot more problems than just the diff...

 

[ROKRWLR]

How many pounds of wire/rod did you use on that thing?:wow:

It took a little wire, but not as much as I've seen some others do..... There are steel plates cut out to fill the gaps between spiders. It's no where near as bad as some of the 14 bolt ones I've seen on RRRRRR-4x4.com They seem to over weld the crap out of them, then come back and grind it all back down to a smooth orb. I'm sure the diff oil appreciates the attention to detail inside the axle, but that's more effort than I think is necessary.

I threw the new bearings and ring gear on. I swear that diff alone weighs about as much as a Dana 30!

 

[ROKRWLR]

I was going to say... It's probably safe to say that if that diff breaks, you've got a whole lot more problems than just the diff...

My goal this time is not to do it again. I'm sick of fixing things! I want to drive!

If the axles form a 8000 lb, monster torque, diesel behemoth can't hold up my little Jeep on 38s with maybe 300hp, I need to adjust something in me, not the Jeep.:wow:
(or stop driving Carnage!)

 

[ThatGrimmJeeper]

My goal this time is not to do it again. I'm sick of fixing things! I want to drive!

If the axles form a 8000 lb, monster torque, diesel behemoth can't hold up my little Jeep on 38s with maybe 300hp, I need to adjust something in me, not the Jeep.:wow:
(or stop driving Carnage!)

Fair enough. I can fully understand overbuilding.

Hell, I'm building a set of Dana 44's from a Grand Wagoneer to swap into my XJ and I'm only going to run 31's.

But that's mostly because I don't want to spend money on a low pinion D30 that needs basically everything (seals, bushings, joints, etc.) along with upgraded gears. If I'm spending that money, I'm upgrading.

 

[old_man]

So where are you going to get it balanced?:roflmao:

 

[trippled]

My goal this time is not to do it again. I'm sick of fixing things! I want to drive!

If the axles form a 8000 lb, monster torque, diesel behemoth can't hold up my little Jeep on 38s with maybe 300hp, I need to adjust something in me, not the Jeep.:wow:
(or stop driving Carnage!)

Loctite your inner pinion bearing. 10.5s have an issue with spinning that bearing and eating thru the shim. If yours is chewed up, .028-.032 seems to be the magic number.

 

[1-tonxj]

My goal this time is not to do it again. I'm sick of fixing things! I want to drive!

If the axles form a 8000 lb, monster torque, diesel behemoth can't hold up my little Jeep on 38s with maybe 300hp, I need to adjust something in me, not the Jeep.:wow:
(or stop driving Carnage!)

I have been test beating my rig on the back roads to see how my homemade drive shafts hold up caught air ...spun tires in 4lo 2lo front and rear....all to redline no kaboom from axles or drive shafts a 5.0 case and 5.13s and 44s is a good test of axle shafts my rear 14 are stock and no kaboom I think a sterling on 38s is like 14 on 38s...lol...not really breakable unless you wedge a tire and have enough torque to twist the shaft when tire stops .

 

[ROKRWLR]

Loctite your inner pinion bearing. 10.5s have an issue with spinning that bearing and eating thru the shim. If yours is chewed up, .028-.032 seems to be the magic number.

Thanks. I'll check that out. The old one was still in nice and tight. Shim was good. The new race was a bear to get in. It is a super tight fit.

I'm REALLY hoping that what I hear about reusing factory shims is true. Sounds like most people end up being able to reuse them with a good pattern. We'll see if I get that lucky. I am ditching the crush sleeve for a solid spacer. That's another issue I hear about the 10.25/10.5.

 

[ROKRWLR]

I have been test beating my rig on the back roads to see how my homemade drive shafts hold up caught air ...spun tires in 4lo 2lo front and rear....all to redline no kaboom from axles or drive shafts a 5.0 case and 5.13s and 44s is a good test of axle shafts my rear 14 are stock and no kaboom I think a sterling on 38s is like 14 on 38s...lol...not really breakable unless you wedge a tire and have enough torque to twist the shaft when tire stops .

I'm hoping that's the case with the 38s. I'm building for the eventual set of stickies when I wear these out. However, with them being basically new, that will be a long time at the rate I'm going. Maybe the V8 will let me smoke them (I mean heat them up) on obstacles more and take some tread off.


What did you do for drive shafts? How bad was it getting them true? Do you have much vibration? I'm thinking about building my own with the EOR 1410 driveshaft kit they sell. It seems somewhat reasonable at $200 + tube + Ujoints for the kit. There is also a guy from Salt Lake DS shop selling shafts for $275 built and balanced on ebay, but they are thinner wall tube than I'd want. These are of course not CV shafts.

 

[1-tonxj]

I'm hoping that's the case with the 38s. I'm building for the eventual set of stickies when I wear these out. However, with them being basically new, that will be a long time at the rate I'm going. Maybe the V8 will let me smoke them (I mean heat them up) on obstacles more and take some tread off.


What did you do for drive shafts? How bad was it getting them true? Do you have much vibration? I'm thinking about building my own with the EOR 1410 driveshaft kit they sell. It seems somewhat reasonable at $200 + tube + Ujoints for the kit. There is also a guy from Salt Lake DS shop selling shafts for $275 built and balanced on ebay, but they are thinner wall tube than I'd want. These are of course not CV shafts.

Well I got a couple sets I have I have a set of the 1310s I cut and a set of 1350 from Superduty trucks that will get made the same way I did the 1310...the 1310 were my old " custom" shafts Crawlertech put on my truck , well when cut in half they were simply .120 wall HREW...you guessed it a stock XJ front shaft sold as custom for the custom price ...lol...the things a shop pull when they think you have no clue , but anywho if you cut a shaft in half and match the ID with a snug fitting OD and use a long section to ensure it does not bow it will be pretty true you then sleeve over the slug to fill the gap and leave you weld gaps and burn it home ...lol...an offroad shaft that is final balanced is not anymore balanced after it hits the first rock than this . I have no vibes and balance is really only important above 30mph , but above 40 I had none...lol...they work as well as the Crawlerte h "customs" but cost about $20 to make .


Jared is also running drive shafts in the buggy mafe the same way .

 

[ThatGrimmJeeper]

I'm REALLY hoping that what I hear about reusing factory shims is true. Sounds like most people end up being able to reuse them with a good pattern. We'll see if I get that lucky. I am ditching the crush sleeve for a solid spacer. That's another issue I hear about the 10.25/10.5.

Bearings are built to very exacting tolerances. The shims are really there to accommodate variances in the housings more often than not.

 

[DutchVDub]

Variances in the housing and variances in the pinion gear. I have generally had good luck reusing the original pinion shim to get the correct depth. The original shims make for a great starting point, but you'll still need to measure and do a pattern check to make sure everything is copacetic.