Weekend is over...what did you get done?

You put new exhaust manifolds on 4.0s?

I just weld up the cracks and stuff it back in. Works fine.
 
Gotta make sure my ujoints are good and slap a couple hockey pucks up front for bumpstops and i'm going wheeling again this weekend! :)
 
Yeah, even the heated seats in Brad's new truck weren't working correctly! :D

First world problems...

Actually, they didn't keep flickering off and on all the way home. He thinks it's because I'm 5-foot-nothing and had to move the seat up, and that bent some wires that made my butt sweat on his nice seats.
 
35 bucks? hell I'd put a new one in for that price too.

Last time I went shopping for one I saw the one you used for like $150 online and said HELL NO! I'll booger weld it for that price.
 
35 bucks? hell I'd put a new one in for that price too.

Last time I went shopping for one I saw the one you used for like $150 online and said HELL NO! I'll booger weld it for that price.

Local guy had bought it off of ebay. Never used it, sold the Jeep and had it laying around.

Installed some 29" Maxxis Ikon EXO's and Stan's NoTubes tubeless kit. Now both my mules run on Maxxis. One week until my race.


You already said that. You should have rotated the Jeeps tire so that both Maxxis names would have been lined up.
 
That looks like the Dorman manifold. Been running one on mine for a couple years now with no complaints. They didn't always have those flex joints on each end.

Hope your motor mounts are in good shape, or you'll be doing this again very soon. Not a hard job...I can usually get it done start to finish in roughly an hour.
 
Those flex joints are a great idea, and one of the few reasons I'd consider buying a new one instead of repairing an old one. The 4.0 manifold is just too long which is one of the reasons it cracks from thermal stress, the other reason it cracks is bad exhaust hangers putting a lot of leverage on the collector flange. Putting the flex joints in will solve or at least somewhat mitigate the thermal issue.
 
Those flex joints are a great idea, and one of the few reasons I'd consider buying a new one instead of repairing an old one. The 4.0 manifold is just too long which is one of the reasons it cracks from thermal stress, the other reason it cracks is bad exhaust hangers putting a lot of leverage on the collector flange. Putting the flex joints in will solve or at least somewhat mitigate the thermal issue.

Agreed! For the longest time I had thought about just cutting a section of pipe out and replacing it w/ a flex joint, until I looked at a Dorman one day and saw those. A couple of years ago when I was selling them, they weren't like that. My first two were APN's. First one did great...for about 6 months until my drivers side motor mount decided to part ways with the rest of the Jeep. The one they sent as a replacement had a manufacturing defect that caused it not to seal against the head (actually leaked worse than the cracked one I had just pulled off). Got tired of taking them on and off while waiting for replacements as the Jeep was my DD at the time. Ran down to O-Rilley's and grabbed this one.

Motor mounts NEED to be in good shape. Period. You WILL be doing this again if they are not. Can't say that enough...
 
Those flex sections wear out quick though. I wanted one but my exhaust shop talked me out of it when I did my 2.5" pipe. They insisted on beefing up the next mount. So far do good.

I also have Ironman poly mounts.
 
Brown Dog Poly's for me. I can see the DIY flex joints wearing out quickly, but ones that are built into the manifold I would think would be stronger/better.
 
You make a good point. I'll have a look at the motor mounts while I'm down there.

If I had known you could do this in one hour I would have drove up and had you show me what I'm doing wrong.

I was about an hour into it when I took the picture. Granted, this is the first time I've done it. I imagine if I'd swapped out as many as you I could do it in an hour. Unhooking the fuel line from the fuel rail took the longest. My stupid cheap disconnect tool didn't want to work.
 
Made my XJ watch while I installed some new Maxxis Ikon EXO 29er tires and a Stan's NoTubes kit on my main whip.

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My old tires were almost bald and had 5 inches of sidewall rips. The tubes had two patches a piece. Getting ready for my race in two weeks.

Its good you did the Stans on new tires. I ran it in old fireracer xcs with soft sidewalls and after the 4th or 5th time eating trail because I burped the front tire I went back to tubes. Man the low rolling resistance was so much fun though.
 
You make a good point. I'll have a look at the motor mounts while I'm down there.

If I had known you could do this in one hour I would have drove up and had you show me what I'm doing wrong.

I was about an hour into it when I took the picture. Granted, this is the first time I've done it. I imagine if I'd swapped out as many as you I could do it in an hour. Unhooking the fuel line from the fuel rail took the longest. My stupid cheap disconnect tool didn't want to work.

I have the harbor freight ones. They're not like the cheap plastic ones you get at the parts house. These are made out of metal (aluminum I think?).

Be careful getting the intake back on too. I've had issues with not having the intake lined up on the dowels that stick out of the head, and breaking the little tabs on the intake. Haven't had any leaks as a result, but one of the breaks was real close to being a problem...lol.
 
Lol. I also made it a point to replace the hardware while I was in there. Didn't like the look of 10+ year old rusty bolts. Nor did I want to take the chance of one of them snapping on installation.
 
I've never had a problem with any of the bolts, but I did snap one of the studs on my most recent motor swap - not the easy to get to one, either, and only after putting the engine in the jeep and getting it bolted to the transmission. From the look of the break it'd been hanging on by approx 1/8 the cross section of the stud for years, the rest of the break was soaked in oil.

I was so pissed I just kept installing everything like it never happened, tightened the shit out of the other bolt that holds the #6 runner down, and ran it. No problems yet. Long as it gets me an inspection sticker, I could care less if it leaks a bit, I barely ever drive that turd since it's basically a backup in case the MJ is broken for a while.
 
A flex socket and long extension makes the manifold job much easier.
 
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