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Tuned AW4 Valve Bodies

does anyone make a revers manual only valve body for the AW4?

i am looking at options to put behind my VW Diesel swap, it will be an AW4 but will be all manual since the trans TCU won't be able to talk to the diesel motor for when and how to shift in "Drive". i'll run a Winters shifter with the RaD designs mods.

i am curious as to how the trans will work with out the "kick down" linkage. the trans will just have to shift like the engine is at WOT all the time?
 
I'm sorry Sardo, I'm not sure what you are asking. I'm also not quite sure why you can't connect an AW4 correctly to a diesel. Why won't the TCU be able to communicate with the diesel engine? The AW4 TCU requires signals that both diesels and gas engines provide. TPS, VSS, Tach (optical?), etc...anyway it's all there. No matter what I do to a valve body it will not help your electronics. The VB is not the "brain" of the transmission like many like to say...it is more like the central nervous system and muscular system that receives, transmits, and responds to signals that come from the brain. The "brain" in this case is the ECU or TCU, not the VB. Get the proper signals to the TCU and the transmission should function perfectly, provided you can get the shift points into a useable range. This may require you install a speed signal unit from Dakota Digital or something to lie about the speed. You will have significantly lower rpms, so you may need to lie to the TCU by doubling the tach signal or something instead of messing with the speed signal. Either way, it can be done. If you go full manual-auto and use the RAD products then you don't need the TCU anyway. Running without a TV cable will cause you to run with low fluid pressure. This will lead to slipping and premature clutch failure under load...especially the higher torque provided by a diesel engine. You should be able to hook up the Jeep TV cable to the throttle cable on the diesel. I realize you don't have a throttle body on that engine, but it's not like this is the first diesel setup with an automatic transmission, so surely there is a relatively simple solution. No need to reinvent the wheel, ya know? Good luck!
 
The TCU actually only needs: TPS (this might be annoying to get), brake light switch, ISS (built into trans, no issue there), OSS (same), NSS (mounted to the transmission, no issue) and a throttle valve cable. Some Supra guys apparently just latch the throttle valve all the way open so it always shifts hard, not sure I'd do that but it's an option. A friend of mine adjusted his on his XJ so it shifts hard and then complained about it shifting hard :doh:

The TCU does not care about the VSS (though yours would still be present), nor the tach, nor many other things people worry about.

The TPS signal is the biggest issue - it's either a 0-5V or 0-8V signal from a variable resistor, I forget which. It shouldn't be difficult to either scab on a Jeep TPS or find a way to adapt the signal from whatever TPS is used with the TDI to work. So yeah, I agree with Fringe XVO here, there is no real reason you can't use one of his valve bodies with a TDI swap.
 
Emailed and asked for a reply 2 days ago and voiced my need to a fast fix and ur help. But srill nada. Also tried to leave a vm and nothing there either...

??
 
Me? That's strange. I have nothing. Whatcha got? I have no emails from anyone in the last few days regarding valve bodies. Try sending again and I'll see what I can do! Phone is iffy, though I do text messages a lot.
 
Please check your [email protected] account?
I sent this on the 30th...
Hello, I have a race jeep, Ultra4 stock class with about a 325-340hp 4.7L stroker. Virtually identical the jeep Goatman and Cal from NAXJA Forum are racing in Ultra4, same engine builder.

I had my aw4 fully taken apart and rebuilt by a well known local drag racer that does higher HP track cars. Well he did something to it where it no longer has Any engine braking. I can down load to 1st at 100mph and nada. If I hit the gas it Flairs WAY high of course but never engine brakes.

I have a few calls to him since we have another race coming up in about 3 weeks, to fix this, but he is not answering and out of town I guess.

Will a Valve operation or mod do this? And if so will your VB say even just a stage 1, fix this?

Please call me when you get a min.


Thank you,
Robert Kobal
RWK Haus Supply
714-875-2414
www.RWKHausSupply.com
 
Ok then... was hoping to talk to someone there by today...
 
Sorry man. I am but one guy, and finals are going on. Please understand. PM sent. In short for anyone else who read above, it sounds like there is either a mechanical or electrical issue keeping the torque converter from locking up, and a modified VB won't change that.
I expect that either the TC is not receiving an electrical signal or a fluid signal (internal seal issue). It could also have a really high stall perhaps.

Also I looked, and I have other emails in my sales inbox, but I did not get yours for some reason. I apologize, I can tell you are in a time crunch.
 
Have you considered sending one out to Team NAXJA? If you're not aware they're racing in the Ultra4 4600 (stock) class. They run a very powerful stroker with a mostly stock 4.0. I think it would be a great durability test of your valve body plus that Jeep is a media darling, I think it would help get your name out there.

This is them in the NorCal Stampede, where they took a first place in class win.
543981_144997589012300_1294852066_n.jpg
 
I've never bought from moparpartsoverstock personally but they're worth a try. What I can tell you is to never use factorychryslerparts unless you enjoy sending people money in exchange for nothing.
 
I am interested in a VB from you but I'm curious what you'd suggest... Stage 1 or stage 2

My jeep is not really my DD anymore but it does see quite high mileage because my wife and I take it on trips frequently. It has been as far north as Alaska and as far south as Mexico and many places in between. So streetability is still pretty key.

That said, when we do take my XJ out, it is usually very loaded and/or towing my offroad trailer. With 4.56 gears and 35" tires, any slight highway uphill causes a downshift to 3rd and a quick increase in transmission (and eventually engine) temperatures.

I installed a RADesign rail shifter so that I have manual control and the ability to lock the TC to help keep temperatures down a bit and it helps, but I'm wondering if the mods you offer will be a good supplement to my jeep? And what stage would you recommend?

I really don't care about it holding 1st in the 1-2 position. Some quicker/firmer shifts might be nice but the bigger concern for me is premature wear and tear and keeping temperatures under control.
 
Stage 1 would be plenty adequate. Quicker shifts will help lengthen the clutch life and reduce temps, but honestly the vast majority of the heat input is coming from the torque converter. Sounds like you are already doing what you can to minimize that.

ert01 said:
I am interested in a VB from you but I'm curious what you'd suggest... Stage 1 or stage 2

My jeep is not really my DD anymore but it does see quite high mileage because my wife and I take it on trips frequently. It has been as far north as Alaska and as far south as Mexico and many places in between. So streetability is still pretty key.

That said, when we do take my XJ out, it is usually very loaded and/or towing my offroad trailer. With 4.56 gears and 35" tires, any slight highway uphill causes a downshift to 3rd and a quick increase in transmission (and eventually engine) temperatures.

I installed a RADesign rail shifter so that I have manual control and the ability to lock the TC to help keep temperatures down a bit and it helps, but I'm wondering if the mods you offer will be a good supplement to my jeep? And what stage would you recommend?

I really don't care about it holding 1st in the 1-2 position. Some quicker/firmer shifts might be nice but the bigger concern for me is premature wear and tear and keeping temperatures under control.
Click to expand...
 
Hi Chad
I have a full on 'buggy' and feel I would want the stage 2. (or better)
My rig is a converted TJ with a '99 AW4 (fully manual) that has been freshed up before transplanting. I have a stock 4.0 at this time but future mods will include ~300+hp Stroker engine. Currently have NP231 w/4:1 low range kit, HP Dana 60 front and 14bolt rear both w/ 5.38 gears and lockers. The tires are 46" rice and canes.
This buggy spends 100% of it's life on trails and looking for mud.
The reason for choosing the AW4 was for upgrades like this one.
Can you give my buggy's AW4 a much needed wake up call?
 
Fringe XVO said:
.... but honestly the vast majority of the heat input is coming from the torque converter. Sounds like you are already doing what you can to minimize that.
Click to expand...

So what do you mean by this exactly? I have a TC lockup switch I installed, and I notice a difference in engine temps (probably due to tranny temps) when I lock the TC up in the mountains. Basically, driving in the hills with it unlocked make the jeep run hot, driving in the hills with it locked, and the jeep drives cooler. Id love to drop it even more.
 
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