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tuff truck build

yourconfusedhaha said:
im not going to lift it to keep the cog low

the problem i've noticed with the jeeps in tuff trucks is the rear slip yoke slides out in the woops and just leaves ya sittin there for the tow truck to come

im thinking if i took the stock slip yoke, drilled a hole in the yoke and out put shaft and tapped the output shaft it would act as a sye then i can just make a square tubing drive shaft and not have to worry about it falling out


almost, but its gotta have In-Out slip somehwere! either on the yoke or the shaft
 
Begster said:
I'm sorry, but nice job cutting those flares.

Judging by the paint scuffs, please tell me you were black out drunk.

I'm not so sure he was trying to keep things pretty, just functional. Its just gonna take a pounding anyways why look good??
 
he is going to make a square toob shaft to take care of the slip duties...

the issue that no one has talked about is:

take the ujoint out, install yoke onto tailshaft, bolt in, then install the PRESS IN u-joint with the yoke bolted on? going to really suck to do that... :dunce:

id bet that you cant get the bolt in there with the u-joint in...

the RE H&T uses a flange and the CV joint flange bolts to it...
 
You can do a hack and tap (they're cheap, like $100) and use a stock front shaft. But then it might be too long as that's usually recommended for lifted XJs. But yeah, I'd get the RE H&T and then maybe do the square tube shaft from that. That way you know you've got a good part there seeing as to how the drivetrain is vital to motion and at the same time vulnerable to half a$$ed stuff. :)
Make sure to get footage of it in action. I've always liked the tough truck stuff, but never am near anywhere involving them...
 
maybe the gehto sye wont work

another idea i had was drill 2 holes threw the slip yoke and output shaft and use grade 8 bolts to hold it in place from sliding out then make the square tubing drive shaft off of that

no i was not drunk on the fender cutting and the skuffs you see were from cleaning up the edges

i know all theses ideas may not be the best n what not but im going for super cheep and strong, no point in spending 100 dollars for a hack n tap if the jeeps only going to last me 2 months tops
 
The way I'd look at it would be like, no point spending money to get it registered in the competition, not to mention on materials for anything I build if its likely to come apart and break after one run. :) $100 for a couple months of playing sounds like a good deal to me. :dunno:
 
I built my 94 xj for tuff truck racing and a funny thing happened.. I WON! Cherokees seem to be a very good vehicle for taking jumps. I am running 4" of lift with stock control arms, AAL rear w/long shackles, pro-comp nitro shocks and some crappy 31" tires on stock steel wheels. I put in a 1.75" X .120 wall roll bar just in case... I have a beefy front bumper/nerf bar in case I nosedive off a jump. I ran the course in 4x4 which really helped my time. Some people say that if you nosedive a cherokee the front axle will push back and jam the front driveshaft so hard it will bust the t-case. I would recomment beefing up the lower control arms & steering arms.

Good luck on your tuff truck! Let us know how it does out on the track.


http://www.gneenterprises.com/tufftruck/Cherokee_trophy.JPG
 
GNEEnterprises said:
I built my 94 xj for tuff truck racing and a funny thing happened.. I WON! Cherokees seem to be a very good vehicle for taking jumps. I am running 4" of lift with stock control arms, AAL rear w/long shackles, pro-comp nitro shocks and some crappy 31" tires on stock steel wheels. I put in a 1.75" X .120 wall roll bar just in case... I have a beefy front bumper/nerf bar in case I nosedive off a jump. I ran the course in 4x4 which really helped my time. Some people say that if you nosedive a cherokee the front axle will push back and jam the front driveshaft so hard it will bust the t-case. I would recomment beefing up the lower control arms & steering arms.

Good luck on your tuff truck! Let us know how it does out on the track.


http://www.gneenterprises.com/tufftruck/Cherokee_trophy.JPG

x2
 
wow all we get in vancouver are some plaques... I want a trophy!!!! A heads up, you need to do something with your control arms, that was my weak point last year.
 
I am going to put in some custom control arms and bilstien 12" travel 5150 shocks. I will be beefing up the steering arms as well. In the rear I might put in an anti-sway bar. I want the extra travel but I want the low center of gravity for cornering so I will try to find some kind of swivel shackles for the rear that will let the axle drop to the full 12". I might run limiting straps to prevent the shocks from over extending. I am installing a 5-point harness and a master battery shutoff. I am moving the battery to the back of the passenger compartment (enclosed, of course).

If I can get some of this done before Saturday I will race it in Greeley, CO
 
no lift + jumping = MAJOR BUMP STOPS i hope you have something in mind. last time i jumped a stockheight xj i took a chunk out of the side of the engine block with the pass upper control arm mount and ripped open the tranny fluid cooler lines.

you better post video when youre done :D great thread i love tuff truck comps with normal every day guys instead of some corporate sponsored team pro type racing. good luck i hope you win :firedevil
 
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