Toter home build

I am not gonna insulate the garage itself, the rear wall of the living quarters is insulated and will be insulating the rear upper bunk surroundings as well
 
are you putting a rear wall on the rear bunk so the only entrance is from the living quarters? i assume that wall would need to be removable so you can get the mattress in and out?
 
Not saying you're gonna be overweight, just sayin the lighter the better.

front axle weights are the biggest concern.

Might have to back the buggy in to get it's weight aft of the rear axle to help the front.

I know that with my pig in the back we weigh 17K, but 7K of that is on the front axle, which is pretty much it's limit.

You've got 15.5K of capacity on the rear, limited by the tires. I'd figure out how to load the buggy with as much as possible on the rear axle

another reason that I'm extending mine when I swap bodies, the entire weight of my junk will be behind the rear axle, so hopefully it's going to offset the heavy front end.
 
Front weights are the biggest concern, steering blowouts suck I've experienced them 1st hand on my pusher. Since it's a truck instead of maxing out your air pressure on the front, you can go for 16 ply front tires which will raise your weight capacity somewhere around 1000 to 2000 lbs.
 
Front weights are the biggest concern, steering blowouts suck I've experienced them 1st hand on my pusher. Since it's a truck instead of maxing out your air pressure on the front, you can go for 16 ply front tires which will raise your weight capacity somewhere around 1000 to 2000 lbs.

They've already got G rated tires on the front axle.

Something like 4400 lbs a piece capacity in a single wheel app.

it's the front suspension and the drop beam that's rated to 7K.
 
the way it is being loaded and located in mine puts the engine right over the wheel wells, any further back and I would be behind the axle with my weight, I thought all this out prior to building. come guys, give me a little credit, this ain't my first dog and pony show
 
are you putting a rear wall on the rear bunk so the only entrance is from the living quarters? i assume that wall would need to be removable so you can get the mattress in and out?

Rear wall of the bunk will not be removeable, the mattress is the one out of my old slide in camper and will easily fold to fit through the opening , it fits through the opening in my old camper which is smaller than this opening. The upper half of the rear bunk wall will extend out about 18" further and will be cabinet storage space the full 8' across.
 
cool, figured you might have been using a regular queen size mattress or something. that would be a bitch lol
 
They've already got G rated tires on the front axle.

Something like 4400 lbs a piece capacity in a single wheel app.

it's the front suspension and the drop beam that's rated to 7K.

Like I said if you switch to a '16" ply tire, it is rated at 6175 single and has a "H" rating, not a "G", this adds 500lbs per tire gain. The front end drop beam has a higher rating than YOUR tires, it's the tires that limit your weight capacity. When you get an over weight ticket on a truck and it's the front axle it's due to the tire rating. That's why you see some trucks with bigger or wider tires up front. When you see the trucks with the big donut tires up front that is usually a 20k axle rating! Most single axle business class bobtails (trucks) that is like the one we speak of, are 20k to 26k rating total with a front axle rating of 10k. Any thing with a higher weight rating requires a commercial license.
 
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Like I said if you switch to a '16" ply tire, it is rated at 6175 single and has a "H" rating, not a "G", this adds 500lbs per tire gain. The front end drop beam has a higher rating than YOUR tires, it's the tires that limit your weight capacity. When you get an over weight ticket on a truck and it's the front axle it's due to the tire rating. That's why you see some trucks with bigger or wider tires up front. When you see the trucks with the big donut tires up front that is usually a 20k axle rating! Most single axle business class bobtails (trucks) that is like the one we speak of, are 20k to 26k rating total with a front axle rating of 10k. Any thing with a higher weight rating requires a commercial license.

I lol at you telling me what's under my truck.

The front axle is rated at 7K, the tires that are on it already exceed that (by nearly 2000 lbs). The tires are not the weak link here, it's the front suspension.

I have bottomed out my front axle into my downtubes with 6900 lbs of front axle weight.

So tell me again how more tire capacity is going to allow more front axle weight?

I'd also like to see a 245/75R19.5 tire that's rated for 6K lbs, because I've not seen anything higher than an H rating that's about 4900 lbs.

look for yourself:
http://www.ricksontruckwheels.com/tires-24570R195.php

these are not class 8 tractors with 10 lug 22.5 wheels.
They are juice braked, wide 8 lug 19.5 lo pro axles in a lo pro chassis.
 
Like I said if you switch to a '16" ply tire, it is rated at 6175 single and has a "H" rating, not a "G", this adds 500lbs per tire gain. The front end drop beam has a higher rating than YOUR tires, it's the tires that limit your weight capacity. When you get an over weight ticket on a truck and it's the front axle it's due to the tire rating. That's why you see some trucks with bigger or wider tires up front. When you see the trucks with the big donut tires up front that is usually a 20k axle rating! Most single axle business class bobtails (trucks) that is like the one we speak of, are 20k to 26k rating total with a front axle rating of 10k. Any thing with a higher weight rating requires a commercial license.

with this logic, I could make my 1/2 ton Tahoe a 3/4 ton just by changing the tires.

has it crossed your mind that maybe those big dump trucks with the big steer tires have a higher rated axle and springs?
 
Makes me wonder if you could upgrade axles and springs to something heavier.

Not saying you'll need it. I'm just curious if its possible to do without too much trouble.
 
Makes me wonder if you could upgrade axles and springs to something heavier.

Not saying you'll need it. I'm just curious if its possible to do without too much trouble.
The problem with this is if you got pulled over by DOT or at the scales, what documentation would you have to prove you have heavier rated axles & springs.
 
Why would DOT pull a registered motor home in?
True, I guess I didn't word that right. If you had to prove at some point, what paperwork would you use, other than a receipt for springs & axles.
 
you would never have to prove it
If you were trying to sell it & were using the fact it had heavier weight capacity as a good selling point. I am NOT trying to start chit, just throwing out a "what if".
 
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