TNT Y-link = Owned UCA Bushings

So I got the WJ UCA bushings the other day and I noticed that the ID of the sleeve is smaller than the ID of the XJ UCA bushing. I have yet to take an UCA bolt and try to put it through though. I could just be losing my mind.

Cal, did you run into this issue?
 
Yeah I don't plan on trussing it at this point. Maybe down the road but I doubt it.

I already have the passenger side reinforced so I'm hoping to find something to work with the stock mount.

I'm going to try and feed a bolt through it tonight and see what happens.
 
MoparManiac said:
So I got the WJ UCA bushings the other day and I noticed that the ID of the sleeve is smaller than the ID of the XJ UCA bushing. I have yet to take an UCA bolt and try to put it through though. I could just be losing my mind.
Click to expand...

Colin, was the XJ bushing you compared to an old one? If it was, the sleeve might jsut have been strechted out making it look larger. The UCA bolt is a 10mm, but a 3/8 works too. Now hurry up and figure this out so I can do mine.
 
lol it was a new one at Crown. I'm going to check it out as soon as I get home.

I have to pick up some tires in Templeton from Tim (t-aldrich) tonight.
 
MoparManiac said:
So I got the WJ UCA bushings the other day and I noticed that the ID of the sleeve is smaller than the ID of the XJ UCA bushing. I have yet to take an UCA bolt and try to put it through though. I could just be losing my mind.

Cal, did you run into this issue?
Click to expand...


The XJ bushing has a larger diameter with knurles inside to bring it down to the bolt size. The WJ bushing has the proper diameter the entire way through it - thats the point of the upgrade.

:)
 
cal said:
The XJ bushing has a larger diameter with knurles inside to bring it down to the bolt size. The WJ bushing has the proper diameter the entire way through it - thats the point of the upgrade.

:)
Click to expand...
Yeah,thats correct!
 
Thanks for the info, I was just going to ask about a bushing upgrade. I only got 12 months out of my uppers this last time around.
 
I just did a set of upper control arm bushings on mine. It took all of 10 minutes, not counting cutting one bolt because the head was stripped by the last owner.
An air hammer with a good coping punch and a die grinder or drill with a wire brush to clean out the hole and the job is a breeze. Luckily I had an extra set of UCA bolts around from a parts jeep tear down.

No experience on the TNT suspension though.
 
cal said:
The XJ bushing has a larger diameter with knurles inside to bring it down to the bolt size. The WJ bushing has the proper diameter the entire way through it - thats the point of the upgrade.

:)
Click to expand...
Just an FYI for everyone, the "knurles" in the sleeve can be removed via drilling and then you can use a larger bolt, 7/16" I believe, which is what I did.
 
Phil said:
Eric, the problem is the binding that's going to come from suspension flex. The front axle is overly constrained from the four control arms (two upper, two lower). With rubber bushings at the axle, the rubber is able to deflect and take the stress. With hard joints, there is no deflection, but still stress.

Now, I run a hard joint at the lower control arm end of the upper and a poly bushing at the axle...but I only run one upper.
Click to expand...

Phil, I know there is binding but unless I am missing something I don't see how having a johnny joint won't work because as we all know, johnny joints have a lot more travel than bushings do. Are you saying that the travel in a JJ in the UCA mount would be maxed out? I don't see how that would be possible.
 
EricsXJ said:
Just an FYI for everyone, the "knurles" in the sleeve can be removed via drilling and then you can use a larger bolt, 7/16" I believe, which is what I did.
Click to expand...



Good to know. Hows that worked out? Still lasting?


I just bought some... and looking at them now, I can see the 6 knurls inside to center the bolt.(more like 6 'bumps' or 'pimples')
 
EricsXJ said:
Phil, I know there is binding but unless I am missing something I don't see how having a johnny joint won't work because as we all know, johnny joints have a lot more travel than bushings do. Are you saying that the travel in a JJ in the UCA mount would be maxed out? I don't see how that would be possible.
Click to expand...
The binding comes as a front to back motion which a hard joint cant do.
 
EricsXJ said:
Just an FYI for everyone, the "knurles" in the sleeve can be removed via drilling and then you can use a larger bolt, 7/16" I believe, which is what I did.
Click to expand...

That's what I did as well 2+ years ago. 7/16ths bolt after reaming the sleeve with a larger drill bit. Can't remember if a 7/16ths bit was enough or if I stepped up to a 15/32nds... But I haven't had any issues since.
 
EricsXJ said:
Phil, I know there is binding but unless I am missing something I don't see how having a johnny joint won't work because as we all know, johnny joints have a lot more travel than bushings do. Are you saying that the travel in a JJ in the UCA mount would be maxed out? I don't see how that would be possible.
Click to expand...

Not the travel (pivot), but the give in the races versus the give in a rubber bushing (tension/compression).

Make sure your coworkers aren't looking (if you are at work) then make a V with two fingers on each hand. Hold your hands together so they look like a pair of radius arms holding an axle. Twist our hands to flex your suspension. Not how your fingertips started out all in one plane, but as the suspension flexes, they are no longer in a plane.

Make sense?
 
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