the ultamate front axle??

CartsXJ said:
All I see is pics of broke shafts. Has anybody actually broken a spindle?

Yeah. Garry did it. I have one of his broken 30 spline shafts here in my office that caused one to blow.
 
vetteboy said:
And here's me being pretty sure the 30-spline outers on my D60 are gonna be the weak link...

:laugh:

35 baby!
 
I hope the 44 isn't a bad route to go, I'm about to put one in, I'm tired of the 30 breakin on 33's.

I can't justify re-gearing the 30

gears and install kit $200
Installation ...........$300
New Unit Bearings ..$200
Truss ...................$150

grand total $800

Versus a D44
Axle.....................200
Gears and kit.........200
Truss/bracet kit.....350
Brakes...................90
mini spool...............60
tubes...................100
hubs....................200
Axles....................300
install...................200 (gear guy charges less if you bring bare axle)
Bearings.................30
ball joints..............100

grand total...........1830



Oh holy crap I hadn't added it all up before, i don't have an extra 1000 dollars.

Damnit to hell I am tired of this crappy 30 and it looks like I'm stuck with it.

Anyone want a HP d-44 de-tubed diff?
 
Last edited:
goodburbon said:
I hope the 44 isn't a bad route to go, I'm about to put one in, I'm tired of the 30 breakin on 33's.

I can't justify re-gearing the 30

gears and install kit $200
Installation $250
New Unit Bearings $200
Truss $150

grand total $800

Versus a D44
Axle

I'd stick with the Dana Turdy. ;)

The Dana 44 is too big in front to be on 33s. Ask XJ_Ranger.
 
vetteboy said:
And here's me being pretty sure the 30-spline outers on my D60 are gonna be the weak link...


35 spline alloy shafts....$200 on ebay

buy some 35 spline drive flanges....problem solved.....
 
xDUMPTRUCKx said:
35 spline alloy shafts....$200 on ebay

buy some 35 spline drive flanges....problem solved.....

Yeah I know. However I've got the Dodge 60 w/external flanges...

flange3.JPG


plenty of room to bore that out and respline for the 35 guys. I've priced:

1) stock Spicer 35-splines - $60 each
2) get existing drive flanges bored & resplined - $35 each

So less than 200 bones for something I won't break and will go in without any modification needed. :) I figure that'll be a nice & easy "once I break it" mod. I don't think I'll have any problems with the stock Spicer 35s so I don't think alloys will be needed.
 
vetteboy said:
Yeah I know. However I've got the Dodge 60 w/external flanges...

flange3.JPG


plenty of room to bore that out and respline for the 35 guys. I've priced:

1) stock Spicer 35-splines - $60 each
2) get existing drive flanges bored & resplined - $35 each

So less than 200 bones for something I won't break and will go in without any modification needed. :) I figure that'll be a nice & easy "once I break it" mod. I don't think I'll have any problems with the stock Spicer 35s so I don't think alloys will be needed.
well there ya go......


btw man your rig is pretty much what im going to be doin the next few months, dissappearing 3 ling 60s etc.....


got a buildup link/site or something?
 
xDUMPTRUCKx said:
well there ya go......


btw man your rig is pretty much what im going to be doin the next few months, dissappearing 3 ling 60s etc.....


got a buildup link/site or something?

This is the closest thing for now...
http://jeepin.net/forum/showthread.php?t=25725

It's probably about 60% full of BS and random topic discussion, but it's also interesting because you can see how my build philosophy and ideas change over the course of it...it's almost sort of a 'stream of conciousness' of the entire build since april or so when I really started. If you can stand 20 pages or so. There's a lot of neat talk about suspension design, engineering, steering geometry, reinforcement all buried in there. Once I get some testing time under it I'll be putting together a more concise and tech-oriented description of the whole project.

Right now though, it's stock 4.0 -> NV4500 -> np231 doubler -> dana300 -> dana 60 / 14 bolt, 39.5s, chopped, caged, front/rear links, 109" wheelbase. :rof:
 
vetteboy said:
This is the closest thing for now...
http://jeepin.net/forum/showthread.php?t=25725

It's probably about 60% full of BS and random topic discussion, but it's also interesting because you can see how my build philosophy and ideas change over the course of it...it's almost sort of a 'stream of conciousness' of the entire build since april or so when I really started. If you can stand 20 pages or so. There's a lot of neat talk about suspension design, engineering, steering geometry, reinforcement all buried in there. Once I get some testing time under it I'll be putting together a more concise and tech-oriented description of the whole project.

Right now though, it's stock 4.0 -> NV4500 -> np231 doubler -> dana300 -> dana 60 / 14 bolt, 39.5s, chopped, caged, front/rear links, 109" wheelbase. :rof:

what company did you go with for that 231/300, box4rox or madrooster or another one? how is it?
 
Got the Box4Rox one. The install went smooth, it shifts, it transmits rotation, it doesn't leak. So far it's done everything I've asked. :) We'll see how it holds up once I actually start driving it.
 
CartsXJ said:
All I see is pics of broke shafts. Has anybody actually broken a spindle?

Breaking chromo stubs seems take out the spindle. I've broken two Warn D44 stubs and both times ruined the spindle. The force of the break deforms the spindle so you can't get the hub nuts back on. One time I had to cut a slot in the hub nuts to get them on, then weld them to the spindle. To get it apart back at home I had to cut apart the hub so I could get a grinder to the spindle.........now many of us carry spare spindles.
 
Goatman said:
Breaking chromo stubs seems take out the spindle. I've broken two Warn D44 stubs and both times ruined the spindle. The force of the break deforms the spindle so you can't get the hub nuts back on. One time I had to cut a slot in the hub nuts to get them on, then weld them to the spindle. To get it apart back at home I had to cut apart the hub so I could get a grinder to the spindle.........now many of us carry spare spindles.


ok I see now. I have a question could you have just unlocked both sides and shifted to 2wd to get home? Or was the deformation so bad it effected the bearings?
 
Question for the D44 guys, then...

All these stories of broken Cromoly stubs, broken inners, broken spindles, broken hubs...is it really worth all that to have a D44?
 
Goatman said:
I think the best axle for all of us is one that's just a little bit stronger than the one we're running.

As usual, I agree. The "ultimate front axle" changes with the ebb & flow of your favorite group of wheelers. This idea is influenced as much by imagination as geographic location.

In other words, there will never be the "ultimate front axle". It is constantly evolving.

If the "ultimate front axle" is lightweight, strong, bombproof then:

lightweight = sheetmetal housing (so toss out the Dana centers) I'd go with a Diamond Toy housing with an v6 Toy third.
strong = thick tubing, trussing and strong knuckles (add Dedenbear kp outers)
not breakable by a straight 6 = use some D60 kingpin birfields with some custom 35sp unitbearings
 
vetteboy said:
Question for the D44 guys, then...

All these stories of broken Cromoly stubs, broken inners, broken spindles, broken hubs...is it really worth all that to have a D44?

Fawk no.
 
cracker said:


x100,000,000


Thats why I am polishing my turd. It will last with 35s. My rig is really light, and only getting lighter. I plan on abusing the 30 with 35s. Then it will be a 609 of some sort.
 
Agreed. I blew my wad of cash on my 30, as far as I can tell I have every upgrade available sometimes in two or three varients as I changed my mind after a purchase. I'm confident that I'll not break it on 35's without getting REALLY stupid, and a few people *cough* cracker *cough* PaulS have hinted they think it should hold 37's.

Time will tell, eh?
 
NXJ said:
I would take a set of Volvo portals over a 60 any day!

Yes, but there are some issues with clearance under the front of an XJ with short lift & portal axles. But it's doable, or so I hear...
 
vintagespeed said:
Yes, but there are some issues with clearance under the front of an XJ with short lift & portal axles. But it's doable, or so I hear...

Too bad it hasn't been field tested :rolleyes:
 
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