Gold Cobra
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Woodland, WA
It needs to be boxed in. Otherwise it will fold like a taco.
The Nail Salon
- Thread starter TORX
- Start date
muddypunk
TOOL
- Location
- Coupeville Whidbey Island washington
Over all it looks pretty much just like #1 Good and sturdy but made for last Gen cherokees I too would have thought to box it in only because my stock tank skids are boxed in all in all I think its plenty strong
- Location
- NE Texas
TORXfab = the new rough country?:bawl:
Anyways...
Onto the next project; Transfer case protection.
I ran across this post on Pirate by, Goatman.
So I tracked down an AW4 cross member to start butchering. My plan was to cut the cross member basically just below the middle seam all the way across.
Done. Gained about 1-1/8" over stock.
Made a template of the plate I would be welding on, and then burned it out of some 3/16" I had left over from my bumper build.
Straight edge while cutting.
Got the plate cleaned up. The last few inches on either side will be tapered up to fit the contour of the cross member. Still need to drill the holes for access to the trans mount. Looking at it now I probably should have extended the middle section to incorporate the extra inch on both sides. I'll deal with that later though.
That's where I'm at now.
Onto the next project; Transfer case protection.
I ran across this post on Pirate by, Goatman.
I really liked how it gained clearance over stock, and didn't require a lot of work to build. Also, while it might not be IED proof, built out of 3/8", and mount with 16 grade 8 bolts, it does the job of protecting the case just fine.I made a flat crossmember by cutting the bottom off a stock crossmember and welding 1/4" plate across it, then adding some tube reinforcement on the top. It's strong and flat, and bolts to the stock holes. The cut is just below the seam in the stock crossmember.
This is a simple idea that doesn't take much fab work, yet it's strong and flat. It's been on the XJ for countless hardcore trails. The t-case skid is the original Tomken one that's been on the XJ from the beginning when it was first locked and lifted, which now is about 13 years, it gets removed and pounded flat now and then.
You can't talk about underbody protection without emphasizing that high clearance is a priority. Hitting underneath the rig stops you more often than a lack of traction, so keeping things flat and tucked up to the frame is important to trail performance.
So I tracked down an AW4 cross member to start butchering. My plan was to cut the cross member basically just below the middle seam all the way across.
Done. Gained about 1-1/8" over stock.
Made a template of the plate I would be welding on, and then burned it out of some 3/16" I had left over from my bumper build.
Straight edge while cutting.
Got the plate cleaned up. The last few inches on either side will be tapered up to fit the contour of the cross member. Still need to drill the holes for access to the trans mount. Looking at it now I probably should have extended the middle section to incorporate the extra inch on both sides. I'll deal with that later though.
That's where I'm at now.
Plugged away at the cross member for a few hours tonight. Started by drilling the access holes for the trans mount.
Next I took the plate, mocked it into position, and then tacked it on all four corners. When I originally cut the cross member in half, it bowed pretty good upward in the middle. I could feel the stress releasing as I cut it.
To make sure it was flat before welding I clamped it to the work table, and then tacked it while it was level.
Heating up the ends to bend them to the contour of the cross member.
Pressed to fit.
To add a bit more structure, and make the overall piece more rigid I welded on some small tube on both sides length wise.
Started burning it all in.
High clearance, ruggedized, cross member, complete.
Now I just need to add some protection off it for the transfer case.
Next I took the plate, mocked it into position, and then tacked it on all four corners. When I originally cut the cross member in half, it bowed pretty good upward in the middle. I could feel the stress releasing as I cut it.
To make sure it was flat before welding I clamped it to the work table, and then tacked it while it was level.
Heating up the ends to bend them to the contour of the cross member.
Pressed to fit.
To add a bit more structure, and make the overall piece more rigid I welded on some small tube on both sides length wise.
Started burning it all in.
High clearance, ruggedized, cross member, complete.
Now I just need to add some protection off it for the transfer case.
Last edited:
jonesinxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Granite Falls, WA
Great cheap idea Dustin!! I like it
The one part I don't replace on the "brand new" front axle, breaks. Seized up a right front caliper coming home Friday.
Fortunately, Jeep parts are cheap and in stock. Had a new one on an hour or two later. I was amazed at the heat this thing built up in just a few miles. I about burned my hand just picking up the lug nuts.
Stupid Jeep.
Fortunately, Jeep parts are cheap and in stock. Had a new one on an hour or two later. I was amazed at the heat this thing built up in just a few miles. I about burned my hand just picking up the lug nuts.
Stupid Jeep.
crazymoose1990
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Beavertown
Hu that's the only thing I didn't replace on my Dana 44, there still working great.
- Location
- South San Francisco, CA
I had the same thing happen to me...right front too. I decided to replace both of them. Didn't want to have the left one crap out after replacing its mate.
NW99XJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Gresham, Or.
Was there any damage to the rotor (warping/cracking) from the heat?
- Location
- NE Texas
muddypunk
TOOL
- Location
- Coupeville Whidbey Island washington
Damn what are those and do they fit right on a 30? Id love to do that upgrade.
Djmack
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Travis AFB
Same here. Those look like something that goes on my dodge 1ton.
bloodtype_jeep
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Portland, Or
crazymoose1990
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Beavertown
Ask Scott but I don't think you can run a 15" rim with those calipers? You would need 17" rim I think.
WaXJ_Skier
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Bellevue, Wa
they fit a 15 if you have enough backspacing or if you run a 16
crazymoose1990
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Beavertown
Yeah, thats how I got a set of 5 MTR's for 500.00 because the guy upgraded brakes, he decided to run 17" rims.
muddypunk
TOOL
- Location
- Coupeville Whidbey Island washington
Damn those look what I need to upgrade too plus I already run 16's so I have all the clearance Ill need or should have.
Djmack
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Travis AFB
Upgraded brakes would be nice.. but i think i need to start small, like bleeding fresh fluid into the lines after getting steel braided... (I think theres a little air in my brakes.)
