THe NAC Lots-O-BFG KO2 Thread

Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread aka North America Home Owners Association Thread

squashman702 said:
M1 euro spec is way cheaper, $28 for 5 quart jug at wally world, and I'm changing at half the interval (7500 miles), so I think I'm safe. May do the Blackstone test in the future though. What was your issue with M1?
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Yea, don't follow BMW intervals at all. My buddy is a tech there and said they started calling everyone and halving their intervals bc they were replacing too many engines. These were mostly on newer ones than yours though.

I tried M1 on my subie and my 93 XJ.. the subie got 5-40 syn and the jeep got the gold cap 15-50. both motors made more noise after, and both burned the oil up. now the jeep ate everything but it was a lot better on shell 15-40, and the subie was a recent rebuild and had no visible leaks. Switch that to T6 5-40 syn and it was great.

I didn't do any real testing, but I def recommend blackstone. It's been very helpful on the Rover. My future with the truck depends on my next sample... I didn't send in my last change but my previous two showed a huge improvement with wear and whatever shouldn't be in the oil. I'm running T6 in that as well.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread aka North America Home Owners Association Thread

XJLI said:
Yea, don't follow BMW intervals at all. My buddy is a tech there and said they started calling everyone and halving their intervals bc they were replacing too many engines. These were mostly on newer ones than yours though.

I tried M1 on my subie and my 93 XJ.. the subie got 5-40 syn and the jeep got the gold cap 15-50. both motors made more noise after, and both burned the oil up. now the jeep ate everything but it was a lot better on shell 15-40, and the subie was a recent rebuild and had no visible leaks. Switch that to T6 5-40 syn and it was great.

I didn't do any real testing, but I def recommend blackstone. It's been very helpful on the Rover. My future with the truck depends on my next sample... I didn't send in my last change but my previous two showed a huge improvement with wear and whatever shouldn't be in the oil. I'm running T6 in that as well.
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I've got a slow VC leak on the BMW, but other than the minor loss there (1/2 quart over 5500 miles) I don't seem to have an issue with it burning off. My motor is a little noisy, but I have no frame of reference to know if it's actually bad or not, given that it's my first BMW. The BMW shop that I brought it for an inspection after I bought it to didn't say anything bad about though. I guess I could look into the Motul, but I think that's pushing $9-10 a quart.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread aka North America Home Owners Association Thread

Just run Nitro in everything
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread aka North America Home Owners Association Thread

squashman702 said:
I've got a slow VC leak on the BMW, but other than the minor loss there (1/2 quart over 5500 miles) I don't seem to have an issue with it burning off. My motor is a little noisy, but I have no frame of reference to know if it's actually bad or not, given that it's my first BMW. The BMW shop that I brought it for an inspection after I bought it to didn't say anything bad about though. I guess I could look into the Motul, but I think that's pushing $9-10 a quart.
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Ya, it's expensive. Does your car have VANOS? If it doesn't you are probably fine with any normal oil. I know that saurkraut-vtec can give ya oil crud. Do the blackstone test first before you do anything, get a baseline. Try motul once, and test again. see if its worth it.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread aka North America Home Owners Association Thread

XJLI said:
I didn't do any real testing, but I def recommend blackstone. It's been very helpful on the Rover. My future with the truck depends on my next sample... I didn't send in my last change but my previous two showed a huge improvement with wear and whatever shouldn't be in the oil. I'm running T6 in that as well.
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Meh, I don't really get the sample thing. I fell for it once and did it on my truck from Blackstone.
Other than a polite, humorous "everything is fine" note and the data I'm not sure it was worth the $20. Keep good clean filters on it and it is what it is. Running one oil over another isn't going to change the life of a modern engine. If a mechanical part is going bad changing the oil type or weight isn't going to fix it. I can see running specific stuff in older engines (read prior to 80's) as they were more picky.

If it is an extended drain thing; To me if I am going to spend $20 to try to extend the life of the oil I might as well have just changed it in the first place.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread aka North America Home Owners Association Thread

RCman said:
Meh, I don't really get the sample thing. I fell for it once and did it on my truck from Blackstone.
Other than a polite, humorous "everything is fine" note and the data I'm not sure it was worth the $20. Keep good clean filters on it and it is what it is. Running one oil over another isn't going to change the life of a modern engine. If a mechanical part is going bad changing the oil type or weight isn't going to fix it. I can see running specific stuff in older engines (read prior to 80's) as they were more picky.

If it is an extended drain thing; To me if I am going to spend $20 to try to extend the life of the oil I might as well have just changed it in the first place.
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What did you run the test on? It's pretty worthless in a 4.0 or 5.3 or any motor that is known to run forever. I've gotten two detailed analysis with helpful info.

C1DJwOH.png


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Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread aka North America Home Owners Association Thread

XJLI said:
Ya, it's expensive. Does your car have VANOS? If it doesn't you are probably fine with any normal oil. I know that saurkraut-vtec can give ya oil crud. Do the blackstone test first before you do anything, get a baseline. Try motul once, and test again. see if its worth it.
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It does have VANOS, but the previous owner did the replacement upgraded seals. Probably see if there's sludge with the VC off, going to do that once it gets a little warmer outside, and go from there. I've got to do the oil filter housing gasket as some point too (damp around there), but I'll probably do a full cooling system refresh at the same time, since I don't have a record of that being fully replaced. Also need to finish the Inspection II. And flush the brake fluid. And then LSD. And then burndogs.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread aka North America Home Owners Association Thread

squashman702 said:
It does have VANOS, but the previous owner did the replacement upgraded seals.
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I'm sure 99% of people are fine with M1. Thats what BMW recommends, isn't it? As long as you change the oil, it'll be fine. If you do a analysis, it might come back and say change it sooner. The long change intervals are what kill the motors according to my buddy.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread aka North America Home Owners Association Thread

XJLI said:
I'm sure 99% of people are fine with M1. Thats what BMW recommends, isn't it? As long as you change the oil, it'll be fine. If you do a analysis, it might come back and say change it sooner. The long change intervals are what kill the motors according to my buddy.
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Castrol Euro 5W30 is what BMW recommended initially, but they went back later and added the M1 Euro formula (I think it's 0W-40, I don't remember) to their list of acceptable oils. I'll probably get bored and sell this car before it matters though.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread aka North America Home Owners Association Thread

Seems to me like there is a whole bunch of "maybe" and "hard to say" there. IDK, not bashing Blackstone at all I just don't see much helpful information there. Maybe I'm missing it.

It was my 6.6L Duramax. I just run whatever good 15W-40 synthetic is the cheapest at the time I need it. It's been Amsoil AME or lately Royal Purple, ordered online I can get it for about the same cost as Rotella T6 locally. I change it when the service light says to (which varies a couple miles depending on how much I tow), I also do the trans filter and the fuel filter at the same time; which is about 2/3 of the interval they should be but worth it while I am doing everything else. Much easier to keep track that way too.

Blackstone_1st_Report_Duramax.png
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread aka North America Home Owners Association Thread

RCman said:
Seems to me like there is a whole bunch of "maybe" and "hard to say" there. IDK, not bashing Blackstone at all I just don't see much helpful information there. Maybe I'm missing it.

It was my 6.6L Duramax. I just run whatever good 15W-40 synthetic is the cheapest at the time I need it. It's been Amsoil AME or lately Royal Purple, ordered online I can get it for about the same cost as Rotella T6 locally. I change it when the service light says to (which varies a couple miles depending on how much I tow), I also do the trans filter and the fuel filter at the same time; which is about 2/3 of the interval they should be but worth it while I am doing everything else. Much easier to keep track that way too.
Click to expand...

You truck is no where near out of range, and was pretty much not even broken it at that point. It's also a motor known for running 300k easy. Idk what else they really could have told you at that point. It's really not a tool needed if you always stay on top on things and bought it at new/almost new. If I were you, I would test it at 100k and if everything is still peachy again at 150k. On a motor known to blow head gaskets and eat cams (mine) its worth it. Even without the dialogue they supply, I can see my PPMs of bad stuff dropping.
 
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