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THe NAC Lots-O-BFG KO2 Thread

Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Puppies thread

First off, when you build the shaft it helps to keep it in phase. None of the ones you built are. I've had more then one of my homemade ones at highway speeds without issue. That or the output on the 242 is junk, that H&T flange is also like 6 million years old and had some slack in it when I ran it.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Puppies thread

I ran my banana shaped barber pole driveshaft for years in the MJ with the yokes like 70 degrees out of phase because I was even more of a retard when I made it. No ujoint issues. It did cause such severe vibes that it stress cracked the AX15 tailhousing though, and may have started my first cracked bellhousing on its path to failure.

Did you make sure to give the yoke a love tap after getting the joint slammed in there so the bearings spin freely instead of being kinda bound up? That can make a huge difference.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Puppies thread

Because the two joints at the t-case end (on a CV/double cardan shaft)cancel each other out, the axle u-joint can be out of phase completely. Hence why you really want the axle u-joint to be "neutral" with no angle on it, as there is no other u-joint to cancel the angle out with.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Puppies thread

I'd check the yoke thoroughly first. That's free. See if you can figure out why there's play in the hack and tap, also free.

Then, I'd take the best shaft you had over to Brookline Machine in Waltham and have them balance it for you. I got one shortened and balanced for $90-100 about a year ago.

Then go nuts with the parts darts from there, starting with whatever's next cheapest.

Grabbing a new yoke from Jeff at crown just to be safe and then probably making a stop at Brookline Machine after, hopefully this helps.

have you spit on it

done some abusive and questionable things to it but haven't tried that yet.

Angle tends to ruin u-joints fast.

1-2* down like Dave said. What are your rpms on the highway that you're cruising at?

What wall thickness driveshaft and what brand ujoints?

rpms are right around 2500-3000, and the wall thickness is the 1.75x .120 dom plus the stock shaft since its sleeved. U joints are all brand new spicer joints so dont think thats the problem. Its just weird that I've had no issues in the past with other sleeved shafts, bent shafts, worse joints, and all at highway speeds.

First off, when you build the shaft it helps to keep it in phase. None of the ones you built are. I've had more then one of my homemade ones at highway speeds without issue. That or the output on the 242 is junk, that H&T flange is also like 6 million years old and had some slack in it when I ran it.

Built another that was actually in phase and still felt like poop, your old homemade one was mint till the splines died.

I ran my banana shaped barber pole driveshaft for years in the MJ with the yokes like 70 degrees out of phase because I was even more of a retard when I made it. No ujoint issues. It did cause such severe vibes that it stress cracked the AX15 tailhousing though, and may have started my first cracked bellhousing on its path to failure.

Did you make sure to give the yoke a love tap after getting the joint slammed in there so the bearings spin freely instead of being kinda bound up? That can make a huge difference.

my old bent shaft is probably the reason my tailhousing cracked too now that you say that. Got any old ax15s with good tailhousings lying around?? Didn't give it a love tap for the most recent one, but had for the ones before and didn't make much difference. Don't think I overtorqued the straps either but for the next one I'll give it a good hit.


Thanks for the help guys.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Puppies thread

I bet the 242 is loose. Mark bought that H&T flange like 10+yes ago. It had some play when I ran it and give slight vibes here and there
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Puppies thread

yea i'd say your issue is the TC output.

Is the shaft the correct length? ie it's not getting over-extended or compressed all the way is it?
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Driveshafts thread

I've been wanting to push both axles forward a bit for better weight distribution, so since the rear lower control arms are longer then the frts I'll just swap em. Rear uppers I'll just shorten the rear uppers and make a longer get out of the 1.75" Dom I have. Makes since right? Hopefully coilvers will help if not I'll just move the coil mounts
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Puppies thread

I bet the 242 is loose. Mark bought that H&T flange like 10+yes ago. It had some play when I ran it and give slight vibes here and there

Yep, right around 10 years ago at this point is when I got the flange new. It has been out of my hands for probably like 5 of those so I can't be much help. Ross picked up that t-case and flange, so who knows what he messed up with it... :)
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Driveshafts thread

I've been wanting to push both axles forward a bit for better weight distribution, so since the rear lower control arms are longer then the frts I'll just swap em. Rear uppers I'll just shorten the rear uppers and make a longer get out of the 1.75" Dom I have. Makes since right? Hopefully coilvers will help if not I'll just move the coil mounts

Aren't you creating more weight bias towards the front doing that? Or is that what you're going for?
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Driveshafts thread

Moving the axles forward will move the chassis back thus moving the wieght back. As it is now I have no wieght over the rear tires. Will also be cutting another foot off the rear.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Driveshafts thread

I still will need another hatch, this one got messed up in the roll and dosn't open anymore
 
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