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THe NAC Lots-O-BFG KO2 Thread

Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread aka North America Home Owners Association Thread

$91 right now. The design has been tweaked twice now too. I'm still running the originals, but the new gen we haven't had a single return yet.

What will cost money for you is a good housing (results in factory housings designed for 15 year old halogen lamps are all over the place).

What would constitute a "good housing" for something with a unique headlight housing like Colin's or my truck? A new halogen housing or something with a projector or HID housing?
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread aka North America Home Owners Association Thread

Sam are they DOT approved?

Laws for the physical headlamp bulbs are they have to pass certain minimum requirements for brightness and temperature, which ours do. There are no laws saying the actual bulb has to be DOT certified. When manufacturers stamp "DOT" on products that is them certifying that their product meets the legal requirements. While we don't stamp "DOT" or "SAE" on our headlamps, we have submitted to the DOT that we are compliant.

The more important thing here is the housing used for a good beam pattern and not being a dick to other drivers.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread aka North America Home Owners Association Thread

c9e1095062393a24dab581243efc2de1caad68a4a78377fcb4a8fe54472060f1.jpg

First hand experience> internets experience.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread aka North America Home Owners Association Thread

I have no issues with the 5500k. I have to literally drive through clouds on some days/nights too. I just took my amber pods off too in favor for some 5500k long throw lights.



$91 right now. The design has been tweaked twice now too. I'm still running the originals, but the new gen we haven't had a single return yet.

What will cost money for you is a good housing (results in factory housings designed for 15 year old halogen lamps are all over the place).

Interesting.

Like Dundy said, what constitutes a good housing?
 
THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread aka North America Home Owners Association Thread

First hand experience> internets experience.


Hey, I have plenty of experience with bulbs. I ran 5500s, 6000s, and finally settled on 4800s in my VW. I can't even count the number of H4s I've tried in my jeeps and my subie. I was in your J truck enough to know that those bulbs aren't for me. I really really like the Osrams I run now.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread aka North America Home Owners Association Thread

What would constitute a "good housing" for something with a unique headlight housing like Colin's or my truck? A new halogen housing or something with a projector or HID housing?

I have actually had customers submit photos of the stock housing style used by your truck and they work really well. (the low beam housing). I can't say I have seen any used in that gen ram offhand. Aside from that we have seen mixed results in projector housings, but quality aftermarket halogen housings all work well (not the $34 ebay ones, those don't count).
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread aka North America Home Owners Association Thread

Really Bill?
Doesn't Bill go to bed when it gets dark anyways?
Hey, I don't know how the DOT for light thing works. I asked to edumate myself so back off duders.
:D
Laws for the physical headlamp bulbs are they have to pass certain minimum requirements for brightness and temperature, which ours do. There are no laws saying the actual bulb has to be DOT certified. When manufacturers stamp "DOT" on products that is them certifying that their product meets the legal requirements. While we don't stamp "DOT" or "SAE" on our headlamps, we have submitted to the DOT that we are compliant.

The more important thing here is the housing used for a good beam pattern and not being a dick to other drivers.
Gotcha. Makes sense. So the housings are the ones approved and as long as you fall under the output and temp creds within that housing things are peachy?
First hand experience> internets experience.
:confused1
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread aka North America Home Owners Association Thread

If that's the case I'll stick with my original plan and just go with some good quality 80/100s or something.

Thanks for the insight Sam.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread aka North America Home Owners Association Thread

I don't think any of the frt light stuff is dot approved for my truck, never had a issue with cops or inspection
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread aka North America Home Owners Association Thread

Hey, I don't know how the DOT for light thing works. I asked to edumate myself so back off duders.
:D

Gotcha. Makes sense. So the housings are the ones approved and as long as you fall under the output and temp creds within that housing things are peachy?
:confused1

Ours far surpass the intensity and temperature certifications. Justh ave to use the right housings so the light isn't focused in some dudes eyes.

I haven't read through every single states laws about replacement headlamp lighting, but not any I've seen require a product to carry the DOT certification. (be it headlamp or housing).Basically, if your light setup doesn't scream "douchebag" you will good to go as far as the law is concerned.

Its kinda like the whole "dot approved beadlock" debate. No laws against running beadlocks on the street, its just a certification, and some people insist on only buying products that carry that certification.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread aka North America Home Owners Association Thread

how bad is a clutch replacement on an external slave ax-15?

mine is finally starting to slip when in 3rd/4th, usually when hot - friction surface must be shot. It has well over 100k on it so i guess it's probably time.

What clutches you guys use in your rigs? I'm thinking either LuK or LuK Gold. Is it worth upgrading to the upgraded Gold unit for DD/crawling?
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread aka North America Home Owners Association Thread

how bad is a clutch replacement on an external slave ax-15?

mine is finally starting to slip when in 3rd/4th, usually when hot - friction surface must be shot. It has well over 100k on it so i guess it's probably time.

What clutches you guys use in your rigs? I'm thinking either LuK or LuK Gold. Is it worth upgrading to the upgraded Gold unit for DD/crawling?

I use LuK. I don't think its the gold. Its what AA sold me.

Hasn't exploded yet.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread aka North America Home Owners Association Thread

I use LuK. I don't think its the gold. Its what AA sold me.

Hasn't exploded yet.

I used RhinoPac in my Subaru when I changed it. Worked.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread aka North America Home Owners Association Thread

yea it's like 100 bones more for the gold, so basically double the price. Unless someone has an excellent reason to use the gold i think i'll just get the standard. It's probably what is in the truck right now, and i don't want to change the feel the clutch has currently.

What else i need - pilot bearing? anything else?
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread aka North America Home Owners Association Thread

I did everything since I was already in there
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread aka North America Home Owners Association Thread

yea it's like 100 bones more for the gold, so basically double the price. Unless someone has an excellent reason to use the gold i think i'll just get the standard. It's probably what is in the truck right now, and i don't want to change the feel the clutch has currently.

What else i need - pilot bearing? anything else?

I did everything since I was already in there

Do everything (disc, pressure plate, flywheel (new or resurfaced), throwout bearing, pilot bearing, fork (if worn), and fork pivot (if worn).
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread aka North America Home Owners Association Thread

Do everything (disc, pressure plate, flywheel (new or resurfaced), throwout bearing, pilot bearing, fork (if worn), and fork pivot (if worn).

Agreed.

Avoid the Autozone throwout bearings. Had to use one in a pinch, started squealing after 10-15k miles.
 
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