THe NAC Lots-O-BFG KO2 Thread

Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

scott, pull the 3rd member this time. when it's apart, drill and tap a drain plug somewhere near the bottom of the housing but also somewhere that won't get scraped off by rocks.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Just drill a hole in the bottom and then weld it back up afterwards :dunno:

no, I am not seriously suggesting this
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

scott, pull the 3rd member this time. when it's apart, drill and tap a drain plug somewhere near the bottom of the housing but also somewhere that won't get scraped off by rocks.

Way ahead of you on that thought... though idk if I am going to follow through with it. I don't have a tap & die set (nor do I want to go buy one right now) so I might just live with it the way it is. I know I should do that and once I get the 3rd down I might go to the store and get the tap(s). I'm just not sure how tapping the cast housing will work, probably nothing to worry about but :dunno:

And my disk brake swap did not make pulling the shafts any easier (well didn't make it harder either, but re-installing the shafts will be a bit more difficult)

Water is delicious, I just wish my tap water were colder. Anyway, back to the garage.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Get yourself a tap set, I got one for 30 bucks at Home Depot and it's served me well. Includes everything up to 1/2-13. It also came with dies for the same threads - used this to make a piece of brass threaded rod I needed for a project.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Way ahead of you on that thought... though idk if I am going to follow through with it. I don't have a tap & die set (nor do I want to go buy one right now) so I might just live with it the way it is. I know I should do that and once I get the 3rd down I might go to the store and get the tap(s). I'm just not sure how tapping the cast housing will work, probably nothing to worry about but :dunno:
if you can drill the proper hole size and the tap is harder than the material you're tapping and you use lube, you're good to go.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Anthony - just curious, how would you rate 1.25" hex bar stock bending strength vs 1.5" or 2" quarter-wall DOM?

I'm not by any means considering a longarm kit at all, but I have some (I think well-founded) suspicions about some that are on the market, which I discussed with Colin, turns out I'm not the only one. But I have only my gut to go by on materials strength and I figure you probably know way more than I do about it - seems to me that a larger diameter DOM tube could have more strength than a smaller size hex bar stock even though there is less metal per lineal foot on the DOM, I just don't know where the break-even point is strength wise (i.e. what size quarter-wall DOM would be required to be equally as strong as 1.25" hex stock.)
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

if you can drill the proper hole size and the tap is harder than the material you're tapping and you use lube, you're good to go.

Yeah, i knew that much :) it's more that I didn't know if tapping directly into cast was bad for whatever reason (weak or could weaken the housing, etc). The big thing is finding a flat spot to drill/tap on the housing itself.

And something I should remember: 9" third member with detroit & pinion guard is pretty damn heavy :rolleyes:
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

scott, you don't even need a flat spot. get a sharp tipped punch, whack it once, where you want the hole, put your drill bit in the center of the divit, and go to town.

ken - let me run some #'s on that and i'll get back to you tomorrow. i would suspect that 2" OD 0.250 wall DOM is 2x as stiff as 1.5" OD 0.250 wall DOM is similarly as stiff as 1.25" hex. don't forget to consider the grade of steel that each style of tubing or whatever is made out of.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

scott, you don't even need a flat spot. get a sharp tipped punch, whack it once, where you want the hole, put your drill bit in the center of the divit, and go to town.

ken - let me run some #'s on that and i'll get back to you tomorrow. i would suspect that 2" OD 0.250 wall DOM is 2x as stiff as 1.5" OD 0.250 wall DOM is similarly as stiff as 1.25" hex. don't forget to consider the grade of steel that each style of tubing or whatever is made out of.
X2 on the first bit - heck, should do that even on flat stock, it keeps the bit from wandering around.

Thanks - I'm basically looking at a longarm setup (which I don't intend to run, just curious as usual) and going "man that looks weak as hell, how is it gonna hold up to much of anything". 7/8" heims and 1.25" hex bar stock of unspecified alloy/grade seems... sketchy to me, at best.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

scott, you don't even need a flat spot. get a sharp tipped punch, whack it once, where you want the hole, put your drill bit in the center of the divit, and go to town.
I was more thinking in terms of getting a good seal; figured it would seal better if the bolt was sitting flush up against a flat surface. Granted I know it's not absolutely necessary and some threadlock/rtv could solve that.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

I was more thinking in terms of getting a good seal; figured it would seal better if the bolt was sitting flush up against a flat surface. Granted I know it's not absolutely necessary and some threadlock/rtv could solve that.
I have a sheet of 1/8" nitrile somewhere or other if you want a piece. Makes good gasket material, one I made a year or two ago has been keeping water out of my 96's interior quite nicely where I drilled the holes to mount the air horn.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

X2 on the first bit - heck, should do that even on flat stock, it keeps the bit from wandering around.

Thanks - I'm basically looking at a longarm setup (which I don't intend to run, just curious as usual) and going "man that looks weak as hell, how is it gonna hold up to much of anything". 7/8" heims and 1.25" hex bar stock of unspecified alloy/grade seems... sketchy to me, at best.
i do it on anything other than aluminum or wood.

that sounds terribly sketchy and i'd never trust it.

edit: scott, either use RTV or pipe sealant. or do NPT threads. NPT threads are slightly conical and self-sealing.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Thanks - I'm basically looking at a longarm setup (which I don't intend to run, just curious as usual) and going "man that looks weak as hell, how is it gonna hold up to much of anything". 7/8" heims and 1.25" hex bar stock of unspecified alloy/grade seems... sketchy to me, at best.


http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1037999


its got some good design elements and thoughts, but the results are ehh at best. larger heim size for the lowers would be better, along with a different link material. the crossmember is nice, but the seperation numbers at both ends are iffy at best, hes trying to keep everything under factory floors and such.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1037999


its got some good design elements and thoughts, but the results are ehh at best. larger heim size for the lowers would be better, along with a different link material. the crossmember is nice, but the seperation numbers at both ends are iffy at best, hes trying to keep everything under factory floors and such.
I was trying to keep the name separated from the specs so it'd be pure tech discussion (instead of worrying about offending someone), but yeah, that's the one :anon:

The link material and heim size were the only ones I really feel I understand well enough to consider commenting on, I don't know that much about suspension setup really.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

I was trying to keep the name separated from the specs so it'd be pure tech discussion (instead of worrying about offending someone)

:roflmao:


You guys worry about offending people? :dunno:
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

I need my own garage/workspace.
Went out earlier to grab some shop towels and found my super huge box of towels almost empty.. Then decided I should throw on some of the nitrile gloves I bought and the [full] box that I had in the tool chest is missing (I think my mother must have used them when she did a bottle drive with the scouts and just never replaced them). Just went to find some carb and choke cleaner to hose out the D30 before covering it back up, well that's gone (though the carb and choke may be my fault though, I can't remember if I finished off my last can a couple weeks ago). The other day I went to get a funnel which I had specifically stacked my 5 different funnels in one far corner of the shelf so my father and I would know where they are, yup, they all went missing ever since my mother "cleaned up & organized stuff" (my father and I searched the entire shelf, all boxes in the garage, all tool chests, etc... they are gone. My mother is saying she dosn't know and wouldn't throw them out :dunno: :laugh:)

Really just need my own area sooner than later, I think I may clean the hell out of the garage for the folks and request that I be allowed to keep myself a tool chest in the back of it just so shit like this doesn't happen again. Worst part is the walmart down teh road from my house sucks so much that I doubt they would have half that stuff anymore and I dont feel like driving 20 min to autozone or advanced.
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

Thanks - I'm basically looking at a longarm setup (which I don't intend to run, just curious as usual) and going "man that looks weak as hell, how is it gonna hold up to much of anything". 7/8" heims and 1.25" hex bar stock of unspecified alloy/grade seems... sketchy to me, at best.

id run that for uppers

but never on something that a 5000lbs of jeep lands on regularly
 
Re: THe NAC Lots-O-Post Thread

so whens this car show jeep thing happen tomorrow and where?
 
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