Test Results from Stroker Overheat (Overheated the Stroker Badly- Part DUEX)

[NHxj4x4]

It makes sence but you need a very long thumb.

I can just take the schrader out of my compression tester, that way I don't need an abnormal thumb =)

 

[Bradlybob]

Wouldn't 1 full turn bring #1 to BDC? Does that in turn bring #2 to TDC?

One FULL turn of the crank from TDC on cyl #1 will put cyl #1 at the top of it's exhaust stroke and the next cylinder in the firing order at TDC (compression stroke).

 

[dizzymac]

Where did you get your engine, I'll be curious to see how they stand behind their work. Still think its a head gasket, but not sure if I'd want that motor back after being overheated like that, that couldn't have done the head any good. Good luck. Getting to cold in the north to be screwing around trying to diagnose and repair our toy's.

 

[NHxj4x4]

OK guys, I need more opinions. I just went out and did the leak test. Took way longer than I thought cuase I thought I was doing it wrong first. So any way, here is how I did it.

I used the compression tester I bought yesterday, took out the schrader valve, and then used a airflow gauge at the end of the hose and made sure it was at 100psi before I started the tests. I made sure all the cyls were at TDV before I did the test as well, and locked the engine to make sure it would no spin. Here is what I got:

1- 100psi to 80psi (20% loss) bubbled the coolant violently. Opened the valve on my overflow resiouvior and all the air went right out.

2- 100 psi to 95psi, air escaping from oil cap
3- 100psi to 95psi, air escaping from oil cap
4- 100psi to 95psi, air escaping from oil cap
5- 100psi to 95psi, air escaping from oil cap
6- 100psi to 95pis, air escaping from oil cap

So that's what the last 3 hours in 20 degree weather gave me. Now can someone please tell me what this mean? The engine BTW turned completely smooth, and I could not notice any nicks or anything on the pistons heads, although it's hard as hell to see in those holes.

Thanks,

Todd

 

[langer1]

Blown head gasket or cracked head, but for sure you got a leak between combustion chamber #1 and the water jacket. The air leaking past the other cyclinders is normal with dry cyclinder walls.

 

[NHxj4x4]

So anyway you slice this I'm pulling the head and getting it magnafluxed right?

 

[langer1]

So anyway you slice this I'm pulling the head and getting it magnafluxed right?

No when and if you do the work you will find a blown head gasket.
If you don't find a bad gasket then you will need to check for a crack.
Using compressed air a crack would only cause some very small bubbles in the coolent.
You will need to have the head check for Warping.

 

[NHxj4x4]

No when and if you do the work you will find a blown head gasket.
If you don't find a bad gasket then you will need to check for a crack.
Using compressed air a crack would only cause some very small bubbles in the coolent.
You will need to have the head check for Warping.

Gotcha, I'm going to do that this weekend. I really want to thank you for your help with all of this man.

Todd

 

[langer1]

Gotcha, I'm going to do that this weekend. I really want to thank you for your help with all of this man.

Todd

If you do have to look for a crack then buy a Spotcheck kit.
It's made by Magnaflux but you don't need any special equipment,you just spray it on. Napa or any welding supply will have it in a couple of small spray cans.

 

[NHxj4x4]

Anyone from the morning crowd wanna throw any ideas out there. I'm thinking headgasket like Langer said, but I welcome all comments.

Todd

 

[langer1]

Anyone from the morning crowd wanna throw any ideas out there. I'm thinking headgasket like Langer said, but I welcome all comments.

Todd

Have you contacted the builder with the test results, what did they have to say and who are they?

 

[NHxj4x4]

Have you contacted the builder with the test results, what did they have to say and who are they?

Tried em this morning and got voicemail, they may be in later today. I'd rather not say who the company was, I'm not really into bashing anyone. I had some problems ordering it initailly, it took 14 weeks, hopefully I won't have any issues with service. Though if they want me to pull the engine, I'll just ask if I can do it myself (the headgasket) without affecting my warranty.

 

[NHxj4x4]

I'm very impressed. I called the shop that I ordered it from right the results. I said what we knew, that the head gasket is screwed. So I said he'll mail me a new head gasket, and chip in $200 to get the work done. Seems very fair to me. All in all, I'm happy with the resolution.

 

[tysonxj]

So, did this solve your problem?

 

[obxtuf]

so are you up and running ?

 

[Dr. Dyno]

It's been over a year so I should hope so.

 

[ChevelleSSLS6]

I'll tell them if their are air leaks though. Anyway, I was reading http://www.650motorcycles.com/LeakDownTester.html and I went and bought the stuff that he mentioned. I do have a 1 way schrader in my compression tester so I'll unscrew that. He also mentioned to be at TDC for each cylinder when you test it. I know how to set TDC for adjusing the timing for example, but how do I get to TDC for cyls 2-6?

this is an ancient thread, without updates. Perhaps our friendly Jeeper threadstarter got depressed and bought a Honda for a million zillion trouble free service free miles (sarcasm).

To find TDC compression on other cylinders (I do this for all of them) I install spark plug in cylinder x, which is the cylinder I want at TDC. Turn engine over by hand, and you can feel when it's on compression stroke. If it needs to be exact TDC remove plug, then insert a long dowel (clean!) into the spark plug hole and find out where it 'tops out' on the compression stroke.