Team NAXJA/Petty Cash Racing stock class KOH XJ build

The list has been updated. It's still long, but quite doable.

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You then weld that socket onto the roll cage, and the other little handle retainer socket the appropriate distance apart to give you a tensioned grip on the tool.

How much tension do you recommend for gripping the tool?







Sorry. Couldn't resist. Really though, nice work on these mounts.
 
The list has been updated. It's still long, but quite doable.

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List is missing metric f*** ton of firewood.

David Bricker / SYR
 
In all the years I've been going to KOH (and that's every year it's been run) we've never had our own fire. Last year I brought wood and a firepit, but generally we're far too busy with other things. If we ever actually have a spare minute for that kinda thing it's easier to just walk to the main hammertown firepit.
 
I have broken 2 of those HF breaker bars. do yourself a favor and get something a little bit nicer.
Maybe I bought the only good one to come out of China! I watched a driver's left-front tire come off the ground three times before the spindle nut broke loose. It was bent, but I put it back in my toolbox and broke it some other day.

For the record, I have broken traditional breaker bars without trying to drive the vehicle weight up on them. That $10 wonder convinced me to go buy another!
 
Funny this should come up tonight. I was just using my old speedwrench not five minutes before I read this. Those are tough to find these days because nobody knows what they are.

The old trick still work ;)

Wow, haven't had to look for one because I have quite a few. I like them for removing stuff like valve covers and air boxes. Where there are lots of bolts the same size that are easily accessible.

Mark
 
I have a nice snap on SN4B we can use (which is how the conversation started), but Dallas felt like it is too expensive of a tool to throw in the car. A discussion we may have again still, but I'll leave it his decision.

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If I hear "crap the breaker bar broke!" over the radio, I'm packing up and going home. :)
 
Didn't take a ton of photos this weekend. Getting too busy to stop and pick up a camera.

Picked up some new shoes. Falken never lets us down, and they were very generous with new Falken MT's.

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New brakes all the way around.

Up front new Centric premium rotors, stoptech calipers and black magic WJ pads.

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In the rear we changed things up a bit. We have run Ford 8.8 brakes, but after talking with Blaine a bit, we swapped pads and calipers for a 2000-2004 Jeep Wrangler with discs (Rubicon) in. The caliper is roughly the same size and bolts right into the 8.8 backing plate, but the pad is about 50% bigger. Centric premium rotors, stoptech calipers and black magic pads here, too.

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New rear bumpstops. Went with a slightly smaller one that we hope will hold up better, had to space it down .500" to do its job.

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No pictures, but tossed in new 4340 rear shafts from Ten Factory. Instead of fighting with the stupid preload ring for the Set20 seal, or redrilling Rubicon backing plates that have it built in, Dallas just made new backing plates on the CNC with the ring tig'd in. Way handy.

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Let me tell you, this made some noise..

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We have fought with front drivelines for a long time. They are fairly short, and we have a tall car with a lot of lift - so even with high end driveshafts, we have to take them apart and grind to get enough travel out of the CV.

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To combat this, as its a consistent problem, we pulled the Atlas and re-clocked it 14* lower. With some re-engineering of the cross member and skid, this happened with a near zero loss in ground clearance.

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