Team NAXJA/Petty Cash Racing stock class KOH XJ build

[831_xj]

We only use the best in the business, for good reason. That thing you just posted has a .083 wall tube. The shaft we run are more expensive because they require a lot of special machining because they have a .375 wall thickness. Also cal (posting from my computer) was talking about more than one shaft.

I bought two driveshafts directly through Tatton's out of Salt Lake City. Was $440 for the two shipped. Spicer joints. 7" slip spline. .188 wall dom. Very nicely built. 2 years of wheeling.. don't have any paint left on the rear and I have had no issues. Great quality and very affordable.

.375 seems crazy thick :shrug:

 

[cracker]

They may be an upgrade from stock, but for the kind of stuff we do a .083 thick tube just won't hold up.

I'm not sure who built the original shafts for 4643, but the next ones will be coming from JEReel. I've been working with them since I started with the RedBull team in 2004 and have never had a driveline failure. Not one, including on the RedBull competition crawlers. I was actually joking with Cal yesterday about how when we're out on the trail everyone is always nervous about hitting their shafts on a rock. Since from the very beginning I've always run super high end shafts this simply has never been a concern of mine. I flat out have never given a single thought to my driveshafts, even with a low pinion rear and doing most of my wheeling at the hammers. When your driveshaft is as thick as your axle tubes it just isn't a thing you worry about.

JE Reel driveshafts bring the suck now. I have broken two and PorchPuppy has gone through 4. I have seen 5 of their shafts welds fail. They don't hold up like they used to and definitely not worth the $$$.

Additionally, their customer service has reached an all time low......they don't return calls and you have to stay on them.

Adams or High Desert Driveline......call them and tell them what you want and they will make it what ever way you need.

 

[DansGreyMj]

JE Reel driveshafts bring the suck now. I have broken two and PorchPuppy has gone through 4. I have seen 5 of their shafts welds fail. They don't hold up like they used to and definitely not worth the $$$.

Additionally, their customer service has reached an all time low......they don't return calls and you have to stay on them.

Adams or High Desert Driveline......call them and tell them what you want and they will make it what ever way you need.

When I needed shafts for my MJ I contacted JE via phone and email multiple times and never heard back. Adam's answered the phone right away and I had shafts to my door in less than a week.

 

[cal]

All driveshafts aside..

The last trip out, at some point we lost reverse and struggled to get off of a trail.

Turned out after some fussing with it that we really just lost off of the detents in the trans and couldn't find reverse easily. It doesn't help that we filed down the ones on the shifter to slam between gears easier.


Dropped the trans pan and found an easy answer:

A little cleaning, a little loctite, and reinstalled.

Seems decent now. Way stronger detents than I ever remember this trans having. I'm glad *something* went easy.

 

[cal]

Went to swap in a new winch line, and the retainer screw was stripped in its hole.

Winch came apart so a new one could be drilled and a new retainer installed. While it was apart, stripped the entire winch down for cleaning and fresh lube. Skipped a lot of pictures because of grease.

 

[cal]

 

[cal]

XCM inspected the diffs, front looks good:

 

[cal]

While XCM worked on that, Dallas cut up our old winch line and made 10' straps out of it.

2 10' straps and a 25' winch extension with hook so that we aren't fumbling for a shackle in the middle of a race.

 

[cal]

The rear end wasn't in as good of shape. about 3/16 play in the pinion.

Missed taking some photos, but pinion gear had chewed up threads where the nut should sit.

All stripped down, new gears and install kit on their way from Motive.

 

[cal]

Knocked some messed up armour off the passenger side. Will rebuild it later.

pretty hammered.

 

[Lowrange2]

How's that chassis holding up? After this many season's of racing I'd think it would be pretty close to done.

I guess all that bracing really pays off.

 

[cal]

How's that chassis holding up? After this many season's of racing I'd think it would be pretty close to done.

I guess all that bracing really pays off.

Its hit and miss. Not much in the way of body cracks, but most of the external sheet metal has a lot of rock rash.

The leaf spring mounts are tearing apart (we'll be addressing that in the next couple of weeks). With some fresh quarter armor, new doors and touch up paint, the car would look pretty good though. Fixing a couple of minor things it will probably be good for several more seasons, but when you look close you can see the soft spots.

 

[StinkyFab]

Cal constantly complains about how heavy the car is, and how he'd like to shave a bunch of weight off, but after looking at a lot of the other 4600 class XJs I feel like there's only a little we could shave off without trading it for chassis destruction. This car is in much better shape than many "newer" ones with less time on them, exterior sheetmetal aside. That's just cosmetics though.

 

[GSequoia]

You must realize Cal changes doors more frequently than he changes oil. And he changes oil a lot.

 

[StinkyFab]

Are you sure we're talking about the same guy? Cal brags about never having changed his oil. He always just changes the engine instead

 

[GSequoia]

Are you sure we're talking about the same guy? Cal brags about never having changed his oil. He always just changes the engine instead

Yes and the oil goes with it. Statement stands. :moon:

 

[lazyxj]

I just grabbed a stock driveshaft that was sitting in the shop and cut it in half
The other thing I found interesting was the thick cardboard tube inside the shaft. Not really sure the reason for it, but I have some theories.

Sound damping. Stops the dinging sound.

 

[cal]

Yes and the oil goes with it. Statement stands. :moon:

oils expensive yo. why not move it to the new engine?

 

[GSequoia]

oils expensive yo. why not move it to the new engine?

You'll need a big hoist to lift the old engine high enough so the drain plug can interface with the new fill plug.

 

[mikedashg]

We only use the best in the business, for good reason. That thing you just posted has a .083 wall tube. The shaft we run are more expensive because they require a lot of special machining because they have a .375 wall thickness. Also cal (posting from my computer) was talking about more than one shaft.

But that .083 wall tube shaft is labeled "EXTREME DUTY" ...what could the .375 be called?

Sorry you got hosed Cal.