Submitted for your Approval. . . .

[Ray H]

Castor, camber, always get the two term bass-ackwards.

Castor is corrected by rotating the axle forwards or backwards though, correct? And castor is the angle that runs thru the hubs front axle/hub joints and angle that it makes runs down to the center of the front tires foot print? If this angle sharpens too much do to lifting, what exactly does it affect in the steering system? Don't we want to keep that imginary line as close to the center of the tire's footprint so that the tires 'want' to come back to center?

On a stock XJ, your caster (if I remember correctly) should be in the neighborhood of 7 degrees positive. That means that if you drew an imaginary line down through the upper and lower ball joints, it would be 7 degrees off vertical and the bottom of the imaginary line would be in front of the spot that the tire meets road. In theory, positive caster makes the steering more stable and less sensitive. When you lift, the caster gets closer to neutral and you must either extend the lower arms or shorten the upper arms. With higher lifts, there is a compromise because if you add too much positive caster, the pinion angle will be off and you get front end vibes.

 

[ZomBrady]

On a stock XJ, your caster (if I remember correctly) should be in the neighborhood of 7 degrees positive. That means that if you drew an imaginary line down through the upper and lower ball joints, it would be 7 degrees off vertical and the bottom of the imaginary line would be in front of the spot that the tire meets road. In theory, positive caster makes the steering more stable and less sensitive. When you lift, the caster gets closer to neutral and you must either extend the lower arms or shorten the upper arms. With higher lifts, there is a compromise because if you add too much positive caster, the pinion angle will be off and you get front end vibes.

Ok, I'm trying to 'see' the mechanics of it. . .doesn't the upper control arms pull back on the axle as the lower control cycle down or drop? Wouldn't that cause that angle to be projected further forward in front of the tire if that were the case? Thus, increasing your caster?

Just trying to wrap my head around this concept.

 

[Ray H]

No. The lower arms are pretty much horizontal on a stocker. The uppers arent quite horizontal. They are angled up slightly. When you lift, they (upper and lower) both pivit down at the axle end. When this happens, it rotates the axle down and back causing the caster to go towards neutral.

 

[Neil]

Here's my opinion... If you're going to spend the $$$ on control arms get adjustable ones. Fixed ones are kind of made for every XJ, and as we have discussed before every XJ is different. So the adjustability allows you to fine tune your front suspension. If you get fixed ones and you have any issues you're hosed. An angle finder is a nifty little tool that will allow you to get things in the ball park and then you can adjust the front to what "feels best". Search around to find the best deal. When looking for parts, a company's "scratch and dent" section is a good place to look. I have found good deals on eBay too. I personally don't see the need to buy a bunch of "pretty" stuff just so you can be the first one to scratch it up. You can always come back here and ask questions about every ones experience with anything. Usually if some one has that product they are glad to give you their opinion on the product.

Neil

 

[Jeepin Jason]

If you're not ready to pony up for some RE or JKS arms, I'd stick with the stock ones if you're just going to be running 3" of lift. Those ProCrap arms with hard poly bushings on both ends will likely do more harm than good if you start getting flexxy offroad.

On the hub kit, for just 31's or 32's, it probably is a bit overkill. I've got the small hub kit on my XJ with 35's though, and I absolutely love it. I got it used from a friend though, and got a heck of a deal on it. Othewise I probably wouldn't have done it, mainly because of the cost. We have no plans to get a hub kit for our TJ, again, due to the cost.

For what you're planning, I'd just upgrade to some late model shafts with 297x/760x u-joints, if your rig doesn't already have them, and pick up a set of spares to carry. You're not very likely to suffer an actual hub failure.

As somoeone already mentioned I think, you can get a 2LO kit for your t'case (assuming you're got the 231) for under $200. I've got this kit in my XJ as well, and have been very happy with it.

 

[ZomBrady]

Thanks again guy for your input.

Okay, revised plan is to now install a Tera 2lo kit and drop the front hub conversion, adjustable lower controls in future, definitely an adjustable track bar, deletion of the SYE from the list for now, and plugging in a D44 in place of the D35.

I think this is a great plan.

 

[Neil]

Thanks again guy for your input.

Okay, revised plan is to now install a Tera 2lo kit and drop the front hub conversion, adjustable lower controls in future, definitely an adjustable track bar, deletion of the SYE from the list for now, and plugging in a D44 in place of the D35.

I think this is a great plan.

That may work very well for you. I personally have no need for a 2lo, nor cant think of any use. But if you can, more power to ya :laugh3: The D44 is a good choice I have one and love it (wish I had one for the front so I could run lower gears). It may be a long search to find one at a junk yard, if that's your plan. I found one and snagged it for a buddy about 2 years ago and haven't seen one since (also haven't been looking either). I got it for about $100.00 WMS to WMS. They're a little a little pricey on eBay and such, 4-500 dollars. I would stick with the older 30 spline 44 rather than the newer Rubicon. I have heard that they are weaker, that may be BS, I don't know. that is just what I heard. Someone will chime in if I am mistaken. If it were me I would go with the adjustable lower control arms first and then do the Tera 2lo later if you really want that. Oh, as far as track bars, I would stay away from Rusty's (See my thread on Rusty's Track Bar). Just a warning from my personal experience. If you are planning on a new D44 or gears and lockers look up RawBrown here on or on the web, He has always provided great advise, prices and service. Just tell him that you're a member.

HTH,
Neil