...sorry...another build thread...

The next rig will be built for 33s. Mild rig. Gears lockers sliders belly and 4" lift with bumpers .

So, what do you think Chris will break first on your old D30 and 37's?
 
nothing. he will break nothing.
You have to actually wheel to actually break.
 
that's some awesome gas mileage. I hope to be getting that one day
I think I'm gonna try the 2500 master so I'll let you know how that goes. paired with a 97xj booster
why the PSC pump? I figured the WJ pump would be totally fine. I just picked up that YJ gear box and am about to send it off to westtexas. I think the WJ pump will work great
really? 40s? you just love pushing the limits of small axles don't you :shocked:


the 40s wouldnt be for another 3 years and by then ill have either the jana 54 gears and RCVS or just build a 60.

I want to see how the 2500 MC does. I have 2 95-96 boosters sitting around .
 
Lol I lined that one right up
 
10* caster seems like a lot for a sfa, I imagine you'll have gnarly driveshaft angles at that point. I set up my uniball kit on the yota w/10* and that is typically ideal for 2wd a-arms. Although ideal caster is often going to be rig specific, but you should still be close to a recomended range. I remember having 4-5 in the xj and i never had death wabble in it, ever.

Can you please send me the parts list you just picked up for hydro assist? Your screen shot got cut off and i'd like to get that going soon as well.
 
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1 9-7258-8 1.5X8X1 DA HYD CYL SWIVEL EYES 99.95
3 930-2236 3/8" X 36" JIC 6F X JIC 6F 4000 PSI HYD HOSE 38.85
3 9-2404-6-4 JIC 6M x 1/4 NPTM CONNECTOR 2.85
3 9-2404-6-6 JIC 6M x 3/8 NPTM CONNECTOR 3.15
1 9-2501-LL-6-6 6 JIC M x 3/8 NPT M 90 DEGREE EXTRA LONG ELBOW 3.40
4 9-5406-P-4 1/4" NPT PLUG 1.80
4 9-5406-P-6 3/8" NPT PLUG 3.20
2 9-304-C-6 JIC 6 CAP 1.40
2 9-6408-6 SAE 6 PLUG 1.50
4 9-6400-6-6 JIC 6M x SAE 6M CONNECTOR 3.60
_________
Sales Tax: 0.00
Shipping: 18.67
Total $: 178.37
 
Yah I need to bring it back to around 5* and see how things go.

As you can see in the above list there are lots os 3s and 4s, I bought spare hoses and spare fittings for trail spares, you can get by for less if you don't want all that trail spare stuff. Id say closer to 150$ shipped. I was at 178$ shipped , with lots of trail spares...

replaced a rear shock
 
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so cheap for such a sweet upgrade, thanks for posting. I'm digging your plans, sounds like you'll continue the trend to minimize downtime and optimize year around wheeling.
 
ya this year will be an amazing year for wheeling.
 
Where did you order parts from, you local Carquest/Napa probably carries most of the fittings required or can order them. Just a suggestion.
 
Been driving the jeep to work in elk grove and to vallejo on the weekends and it has been riding fantastic. easy to drive and easy to stop. Still need to mess with caster , buy a antirock kit for the front, and put on the hydro assist. Then It will just be stupid how well it goes down the road.

Another reason to go 14b: Unsprung weight is a good thing. Increasing your percentage of unsprung weight on a crawler is good, helps keep the COG lower---this helps heavy pigs like my rig . Keep the arse of the jeep on the ground more too on the really steep downhill and make the rear leaves work harder. The more I've searched the better the 14b sounds. I am pretty sure my rig weighs over 5500 pounds fully loaded so the unpsrung weight helps a ton.


http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/chevy/779257-unsprung-weight-more-better.html
 
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hmm. I knew unsprung weight keeps you grounded. but light weight rigs just perform like nothing else. I guess that's why they call it necessary evil, it's something you gotta have if you want a full bodied rig like ours. a 3800# buggy on 37" sticks does the best of anything I've seen.

I'm hoping to keep mine just under 5k
 
was gonna go to TK1 and buy a 300$ antirock but said screw and made my own since I already had the isuzu rodeo torsion bar and mounts. just picked up some 1/2" x2.5" flat steel and cut it down to 18" and then used the splined mounts as templates and then drilled it out in the drill press. 1.5" hole saw for the center, 9/16 holes for the side bolts:





ordered some 1/2" heims from ruffstuff with weld in bungs , have some 1/2" ID DOM to use to make the end links. should work out pretty well.
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/12TA.html

ground and cut some old Ruffstuff shackles I had lying around from wherever to make axle side weld on mounts to go on the outer side of the coil buckets.




probably just need to move the bushinngs forward on the frame a few inches, or more
 
More. Out boarded the arms compared to the pro crack which brought em in
Tacked up axle side mount




Got thebruffstuff half inch hiems . Gonna make my own links for the arms



More pics of front plating


Broke a tap trying to tap the torsion bar after drilling it out in the drill press


Bolted and welded arms to the splined collars



Lots of tack welds on the collar


Plated the bottom side and a
Little forward with 1/4" and then drilled and tapped the steel for m10x1.5 . Sway bar bushings bolt right up



 
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Took some measurements, all and in all, driver side was taller than the passenger side in both front and rear. the new leaves did help a little but I think new coils will drive it home. I slapped a taller coil on the front passenger side and now its almost all level all around but a hair taller on pass side front and rear. going to cut down the pass side front coil just a bit and that should dial it in.

Slapped in the BOR rear leaves I got on here from a fellow NAXJA member, and now the shackle angle is way better, must have had longer mains, and also the rear is about 1.5" taller. Also, one of the main leafs I had slapped on from some stock packs was all bent to hell, I am sure that didn't help anything.
 
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