- Location
- South San Francisco, CA
Looks good Jon, nice work! BTW, I have some 8 lug D44 spindles, calipers and rotors if you ever decide to change out.
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...sorry...another build thread...
- Thread starter blondejoncherokee
- Start date
CAJJ93XJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Roseville, CA
dang bro! 14 bolts are just plain awesome
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
Thanks. I will surely keep that in mind.
Update
I shaved the cover tonight to match the housing.
cut the U bolts down,
ran a tap through one of the threaded holes in the yoke so I could call that done,
burned in one shock mount
cleaned up the garage
painted the one white rim I have so far black
spent half the day looking for a set of brass drifts
finally got the drifts and finished installing the bearing race in the driver side hub.then pressed in the studs through the rotor
ground down calipers
found out I don't have enough room in my garage to install the shafts so I will need to push it into the alley to do so when I get the other rim.
it also looks like ill have to install the calipers upside down for clearance reasons. Im going to see what I can do.
Update
I shaved the cover tonight to match the housing.
cut the U bolts down,
ran a tap through one of the threaded holes in the yoke so I could call that done,
burned in one shock mount
cleaned up the garage
painted the one white rim I have so far black
spent half the day looking for a set of brass drifts
finally got the drifts and finished installing the bearing race in the driver side hub.then pressed in the studs through the rotor
ground down calipers
found out I don't have enough room in my garage to install the shafts so I will need to push it into the alley to do so when I get the other rim.
it also looks like ill have to install the calipers upside down for clearance reasons. Im going to see what I can do.
- Location
- San Diego
bleed them before you install them and it shouldn't be an issue.
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
Ya that's the plan.
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
one shock mount to go:
calipers are stupid close. I need to grind that nub all the way down.
this nub:
obviously keeping 67.5" would have made things way easier.
the lower lip on the diff averages a thickness of about .6-.73 after the shave with a few spots at .51. just checked with the micrometers. ground to lowest point of diff is around 10.25-10.5. most of it is at least 11". the high 9 shaved was around 10.75 with 11' in most areas.
calipers are stupid close. I need to grind that nub all the way down.
this nub:
obviously keeping 67.5" would have made things way easier.
the lower lip on the diff averages a thickness of about .6-.73 after the shave with a few spots at .51. just checked with the micrometers. ground to lowest point of diff is around 10.25-10.5. most of it is at least 11". the high 9 shaved was around 10.75 with 11' in most areas.
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blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
got hard lines and soft lines mounted. Ground down calipers on the outside to clear rims and the inside nub to clear the leaves. and the nubs on the brake soft lines . went to Parker hose and grabbed longer 7/16 -20 banjo bolts and go the brakes mostly installed.
had to pull calipers off and flip them right side up to bleed them. Seems like no more air for now, but I will bleed them again after a first drive.
filled the diff and painted the mounts and installed shocks.
my concern now is that running these two large calipers front and rear my MC might need to be swapped. WJ booster and master currently.
had to pull calipers off and flip them right side up to bleed them. Seems like no more air for now, but I will bleed them again after a first drive.
filled the diff and painted the mounts and installed shocks.
my concern now is that running these two large calipers front and rear my MC might need to be swapped. WJ booster and master currently.
- Location
- WA state
Isn't the 2500 Mc an upgrade that works with the booster?
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
so does anyone know if I can just use 3/4"-13 thread bolts since my axle shafts didn't have bolts when I bought the 14 bolt. I bought some 3/4"-13 bolts but they seem a little long.
on that note I had to spend a ton of time tonight grinding down the caliper brackets and had to clean the threads for the 8 outer axle shaft bolts on the driver side.
on that note I had to spend a ton of time tonight grinding down the caliper brackets and had to clean the threads for the 8 outer axle shaft bolts on the driver side.
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
Brakes go to floor. Bled the heck out of them again.
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blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
So I pulled the carrier last night and all of the ring gear bolts where hand tight or looser. I actually took them all out by hand. basically at this point I could have bought a 50$ hp44 housing with bearing caps since now I have replaced everything but the locker which are pretty cheap for a Grizzly so I wish I just did that in the beginning… but then again I thought this would take one weekend.... Just glad I am doing the gears.
Now I get to figure out how to remove the carrier bearings without destroying them because I need setup bearings...
Now I get to figure out how to remove the carrier bearings without destroying them because I need setup bearings...
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
Started gears tonight. Pressed off bearings. Replaced driver side carrier bearing and measured all shim stacks . Had to make a puller for the bearing seperator.
4.88 pinion on left , 5.13 middle, and dana 30 4.88 pinion right. The 5.13 pinion seems bigger than the 4.88 and the 5.13 ring gear seems bigger and measures taller that the 4.88 ring gear
4.88 pinion on left , 5.13 middle, and dana 30 4.88 pinion right. The 5.13 pinion seems bigger than the 4.88 and the 5.13 ring gear seems bigger and measures taller that the 4.88 ring gear
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
tonights part of doing gears sucks.
- Location
- WA state
Are you done yet?!
REVROK
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Spring Creek, NV
I seem to remember someone offering you one of those HP44 housings... free! I am going to build it at some point for some future rig.
P.S. Geez I'm a nice guy!
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CAJJ93XJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Roseville, CA
hell yeah Jon. let us know how it goes.
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
well looking back that would have been the right idea. at the time it seemed like buying a built 44 on complete impulse was the right idea. Now I've literally replaced everything but the ARB but I would have been perfectly happy starting with a grizzly.
REVROK
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Spring Creek, NV
My friend the rig is coming along nicely. Just couldn't resist a little dig! 
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
first pattern the pinion was too shallow:
so I increased pinion depth by about .029, where the pinion baffle is around .025 so its close to that +.04
I also pulled .01 from the pass side and put it on the driver side.
so here is pattern number 2:
backlash on the first pattern was around 1 to 2 thousands. on the second pattern its around 3 thousandths.
honestly the second pattern doesn't even look that bad compared to billavistas gear seat up article on pirate:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/articles/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup
I want to decrease pinion depth by around 3-4 thousandths and that should do it. Or I can keep it tight with around 3 thousandths and call it good, according to the little manual the pattern is good , a decent coast pattern, a little deep on the pinion, and a decent drive pattern, a little close to the toe.
only downside is that rwkhaus didn't send me any ARB driver side shims that are a specific ID compared to the pass side. sucks so I only have the original driver side shims to work with which totally sucks, but I can put placeholder shims in the way for now.
anyone in sacto have dana 44 driver side ARB shims I could use for the carrier bearings? I seem to have close to enough of everything else.
so I increased pinion depth by about .029, where the pinion baffle is around .025 so its close to that +.04
I also pulled .01 from the pass side and put it on the driver side.
so here is pattern number 2:
backlash on the first pattern was around 1 to 2 thousands. on the second pattern its around 3 thousandths.
honestly the second pattern doesn't even look that bad compared to billavistas gear seat up article on pirate:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/articles/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup
I want to decrease pinion depth by around 3-4 thousandths and that should do it. Or I can keep it tight with around 3 thousandths and call it good, according to the little manual the pattern is good , a decent coast pattern, a little deep on the pinion, and a decent drive pattern, a little close to the toe.
only downside is that rwkhaus didn't send me any ARB driver side shims that are a specific ID compared to the pass side. sucks so I only have the original driver side shims to work with which totally sucks, but I can put placeholder shims in the way for now.
anyone in sacto have dana 44 driver side ARB shims I could use for the carrier bearings? I seem to have close to enough of everything else.
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blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
nevermind. just ran a third pattern. pulled some pinion shim out. its back to the first pattern all over again. sucks.
ugh.
had to go to west cosast diffs to grab ARB shim set. 57$ out the door. wow. now I can dial in backlash on the things.
harbor freight 20 ton shop press(already had it though) 0 (already had it, but it was 150$)
harbor freight wheel cylinder hone for opening up setup bearings: 5$ with 25% off
he arbor freight bearing race installer set: 28$ with a coupon
SNAP on dial indicator style in pound torque wrench (ebay) 72$ shipped(used)
summit racing clearances out 250ft lb torque wrench (mine only goes to 150) and a magnetic base dial indicator 70$ shipped
digial micrometers: 15$ with coupon at HF
brass drifts at NAPA auto parts , set of 3, 35$ with 10% off from AAA card
borrow SNAP ON 4.5" bearing separator 0$(plan on buying one, they are 215$)
cost of tools to setup gears (already had press and borrowing a bearing separator) : 255$.
shops these days want around 350$ to 400$ per axle, so its not bad at all. And I was able to finally grab some tools I really wanted. And now Ill try to set more gears .
Next time it will be Jana 54 gears+kit and RCVS and a 3.73 and down Grizzly. Hopefully thats no time soon.
ugh.
had to go to west cosast diffs to grab ARB shim set. 57$ out the door. wow. now I can dial in backlash on the things.
harbor freight 20 ton shop press(already had it though) 0 (already had it, but it was 150$)
harbor freight wheel cylinder hone for opening up setup bearings: 5$ with 25% off
he arbor freight bearing race installer set: 28$ with a coupon
SNAP on dial indicator style in pound torque wrench (ebay) 72$ shipped(used)
summit racing clearances out 250ft lb torque wrench (mine only goes to 150) and a magnetic base dial indicator 70$ shipped
digial micrometers: 15$ with coupon at HF
brass drifts at NAPA auto parts , set of 3, 35$ with 10% off from AAA card
borrow SNAP ON 4.5" bearing separator 0$(plan on buying one, they are 215$)
cost of tools to setup gears (already had press and borrowing a bearing separator) : 255$.
shops these days want around 350$ to 400$ per axle, so its not bad at all. And I was able to finally grab some tools I really wanted. And now Ill try to set more gears .
Next time it will be Jana 54 gears+kit and RCVS and a 3.73 and down Grizzly. Hopefully thats no time soon.
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