The 2 15/16 calipers not the 3 5/16ths calipers. Everyone freaks out about the weight but when your rig weighs probably close to 5000 pounds what's another 150 pounds or so for some serious strength gains and deeper gearing.
Oh, I wasn't meaning to criticize when I called it "unsprung weight". That was genuinely a compliment - full floating axles are badass and the 14 bolt is more or less the gold standard of "beef". If you were intending to autocross the thing, maybe something else would be a better choice - but for rocks... sweet.
Already have the cover. Just need to shave the cover . 10.25 " under lowest point of diff. The hi9 was 10.75 so I only lost 1/2" of clearance. Rs pinion guard is next on the list
Already have the cover. Just need to shave the cover . 10.25 " under lowest point of diff. The hi9 was 10.75 so I only lost 1/2" of clearance. Rs pinion guard is next on the list
I figured I should point out that this is a loss of only 1/2" when compared to a SHAVED 9". The 14 bolt diff doesn't really hang as low as people say after a mild shave. Or maybe a 9" really has less clearance than people give it credit for.
Glad I could help today Jon. I sure learned a lot haha
and, I know it costs money... which is against everything it means to be an XJ owner, but consider going to 1410 u-joints.
conversion joints are uncommon, and weaker. and you lose a lot of angle out of the 1350s.
Im not done with the swap yet. thing is in pieces still , so yes the U bolts getting cut down are on the list, thats probably one of the last things though.
I dont have a bearing race installed for the outer Hub race, its huge.
Summit has cheap moog 1310 to 1350 conversion joints for 16$ so I have one spare and will buy 2 more.
I personally want to keep my fuses in two spots:
1.DS U joints and DS CV joints
2. front 19 spline outers and hubs.
Every time there is a picture of uncut u-bolts someone has to say something! Please don't take offense, but if you have followed the blog you should know Jon is not the guy to leave a detail like that undone when he is finished?
So Jon, do you think by the time you sell the 9" you'll come out Okay with the gear change? The 14 bolt should have been relatively inexpensive?? Not really looking to do this with my XJ as I'll never go beyond 35's, but maybe a future rig. I really like the design, value and (obviously) strength of a 14 bolt.
TMR has a new shave kit that lets you keep the stock size ring gear, or you can go full retard (like I did) & get their shave kit that requires you to machine the ring gear to a smaller diameter for maximum ground clearance.
With the gears for the front and arb carrier bearings I am into it all for 2000 including buying the 14 bolt, a ruffstuff swap kit, new rear rims, lug nuts, u joints, disc brake swap parts, snap on dial indicator torque wrench in lb. a 250 ft lb torque wrench , spindle socket for the 14 bolt, and a magnetic dial indicator. That and all the other stuff.
Total cost for 14 bolt itself was 1450. 300 for front gears and master. 200 in tools for doing gears, and maybe 50$ in misc.
The sale of the hi9 won't be 2000 but I am getting brand new gears and bearings and deeper gears and tons of strength on the rear and bigger brakes in the rear. Pretty stoked .
Ya the first thing I did was search tmr no shave kit. But to keep this is a tighter budget and also only wanted the jeep to be down for 1-2 days I decided to pass. I lost less than 1/2 " over my shaved hi9 at the peak . I went very aggressive with this shave and kept all 14 bolts and smoother the thing out.
Considering leaving the U bolts long just to be a jackass now haha.!
Very important info for those doing the disc swap. If you don't set you pinion angle pretty high your calipers won't clear the leaves . Luckily once we set pinion angle it rotated back enough to clear barely. If you used srw hubs and not dual my hubs it probably would be a non issue . But then you would be 67 and not 63. Mine wouldn't fit in the garage at 67