...sorry...another build thread...

its only got to last a year or so.
plus ill have alot more cash this time next year.
 
blondejoncherokee said:
gonna grab some more tube and start the cage this weekend hopefully. anyone want to come by and watch me screw up some tube and learn the hard way how to build a hybrid roll cage?


also ive decided that next year in January i plan to grab a 4 spd atlas, a built hp44 or 60 or 9" front build, and some 37s. this year is get the hp30 done with cryd and heat treated gears, trussed like crazy, get the cage and ladder bar done, rear shackle drop box, put the front 5.5" coils back on, and get the hp30 done and under the XJ. And one of those badass tig welded 3 core ebay radiators. sometime this summer to winter i want to build a tail gate too.
Click to expand...

Jon- Just keeps improving. When do you comp cut the Willys?:gee:
 
REVROK said:
Jon- Just keeps improving. When do you comp cut the Willys?:gee:
Click to expand...
haha . yah who knows. the transmission has to work first . i still havent had time to get that going. was working on it alot for a while. now im stumped. need to find time to pull the tranny again after a few more tests.

i dont mind rebuilding the HP 30 since i have it, have gears, and have parts like chromos and diff cover for it and it will be much better with the cryod gears than a lp30 and adding a truss.

as long as it lasts a year or little longer with no issues i should be able to get say 600-700+ for it with cryo/heat gears,4.88s,new bearings an seals, locker, chromos, truss, LCA skids, ruffstuff cover, new ball joints , bushings and brakes and the OTK steering insert. so i wont lose on it really since i already have most of that stuff. that will probably maybe cover the locker for whatever front end i go with...or if it is still holding up stong maybe ill run it a little longer...
 
Nice upside-down grille (=
 
is it upside down? that would explain alot
 
blondejoncherokee said:
is it upside down? that would explain alot
Click to expand...
Yes, look at the lines of the of the headlight/marker inserts, and look at the lines of the grill.
Mine was like that when I bought it. Was black so harder to tell. So basically every time I see them I bring it up. Lol.
 
just installed a new 38$ downpipe on the XJ. the TNT xmember makes it a little bit of a pain but its do-able. picked up another 10lb spool of .035 flux core and some HD shackle drop boxes tonight off craigslist.
 
update
i have 140 ft 1.5 .120 DOM sitting in the garage. i just need a weekend to start the cage.

just ordered hp30 master install, a HD U bolt strap style D30 yoke, a new open carrier, and sent the 4.88s off to bobby long for cryo and heat treat.

also going to install the shackle drop boxes this weekend most likely

i also made carboard templates for a d30 truss, and will be making some templates for gussets for the Cs as well

then itll be putting the HP 30 back together with the lockright and chromos thats in the LP right now and selling the LP 30 with 4.88s and a truss...
 
I would not do shackle drop boxes. Pretty sure I invented that about 1o years ago, and cut them out about 3 years after installing them. Unloading is horrible, and it lowers the roll center too much.
 
yes i was concerned about the unloading, i didnt think about lowering roll center though. my friend rob was saying i shouldnt do them for those 2 reasons as well. shit, i guess i can just resell them on craigslist and or naxja.

crash:
was the unloading worse going uphill or downhill or just all around?
 
It was a downhill thing. The increased sway at speed was not very inspiring either.
 
CRASH said:
It was a downhill thing. The increased sway at speed was not very inspiring either.
Click to expand...

im thinking dodge van main leafs with longer shackles now(im also building a traction bar) , and then link it next year this time.
 
When designing the traction bar, run the Pirate 4 link calculator in 3 link mode. Use just the traction bar attachment points on the axle and frame, don't worry about the leaf springs, they are just along for the ride. You will be amazed at the shitty anti-squat numbers. Bet you will land at something like 140%, which will make the rear traction situation on climbs worse, not better.

Lowering the front of the leaf is a much better idea. Look at modern trucks with leafs (Tacoma comes to mind) and note how much lower the fixed side of the spring is than the rear. This sort of geometry lowers antisquat and reduces the tendency of the rear to want to hop under power in loose conditions.
 
im not as worried about traction up hill as i am about curing axle wrap when the rear is bound up .
so youre saying lowering the front leaf mount will do more for me than a traction bar for axle wrap and hop on climbs? id rather not build a traction bar and just lower the front mounts and run the longer dodge van main leafs if thats the case.

the thing that comes to mind is seeing bad axle wrap and watching the pinion shoot up while rear is bound up .
 
A proper set of leafs (National, Deaver) with a good snail wrap top will not allow the pinion to wrap very much under load.
 
CRASH said:
I would not do shackle drop boxes. Pretty sure I invented that about 1o years ago, and cut them out about 3 years after installing them. Unloading is horrible, and it lowers the roll center too much.
Click to expand...

Well thanks for the update buddy!
fawk.gif

Billy
 
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