...sorry...another build thread...

until I get good ball joints, bearings in there , steering dialed in, links/caster dialed probably yah. and the Drag link is not as long as the trackbar. it'll be a good band aid hopefully until its dialed in.
 
did some welding tonight at joshs with the 220.

found all of my excessive play int he front end.

pass side balljoints are toast. I guess would be nice thing to say. they are totally screwed, mostly the upper, so ball joints are next on the list. got new warn premiums and new hub bearings today in the mail, the entire driver side spindle /hub flexes/wobbles, So I am sure when I pull that ill find something terrible in there too.

hopefully between new warn premiums, new hub bearings, and new ball joints the thing should actually start steering finally. for the last 2 trips the steering gas been actually pretty scary. turning the wheel like a full turn while still going straight sucks when you need to be turning...
 
Outlander560 said:
remember to preload those upper ball joints...nice build man....looks pretty sick
Click to expand...

what do you mean preload? Do you just mean preload the adjuster sleeve ? I have that special tool for that if so...
 
thanks for the heads up. I was going to search around online for write ups on doing the bearings/balljoints on the ford 44. Ive done a ton of dana 30s. I have the spindle nut socket, but still need to look up torque specs on the spindle nuts and the ball joint nuts, and probably going to rent a ball joint press and a spindle puller. hopefully I can find my slider hammer...
 
lower ball joint- 75 ft lbs
upper preload sleeve-50 ft lbs
upper ball joints-100 ft lbs
if you have a pull scale the knuckle should take 25 ft lbs to pull

this is from CTeunuch on here who posted in my 44 build for spindle nuts setting the preload on the spindle bearings:

The 'rule of thumb' I go by is tighten the inner nut to 150-200 ft/lbs while turning the hub, back off a half turn(don't turn it while it's loose), tighten to 50 ft/lbs, then back off a quarter turn. If the little locking ring doesn't line up exactly always go LOOSER with the nut a little bit to line it up. If you overtighten them the bearings with cook on the highway. Then you tighten the outer nut to 150-175 ft/lbs.
 
man thanks a ton thats great info.
 
Outlander560 said:
lower ball joint- 75 ft lbs
upper preload sleeve-50 ft lbs
upper ball joints-100 ft lbs
if you have a pull scale the knuckle should take 25 ft lbs to pull

this is from CTeunuch on here who posted in my 44 build for spindle nuts setting the preload on the spindle bearings:

The 'rule of thumb' I go by is tighten the inner nut to 150-200 ft/lbs while turning the hub, back off a half turn(don't turn it while it's loose), tighten to 50 ft/lbs, then back off a quarter turn. If the little locking ring doesn't line up exactly always go LOOSER with the nut a little bit to line it up. If you overtighten them the bearings with cook on the highway. Then you tighten the outer nut to 150-175 ft/lbs.
Click to expand...

I've done Dana 44 spindles any number of times, but always have to look it up. This sounds right though. I do remember that above all the final result has to be loose enough on the inner nut that everything turns with zero binding while having zero slop as well, when the outer nut is tight. This is accomplished by rotating the rotor as you tighten the inner nut to 50 Ft Lbs, otherwise your final result may be too loose after you back off the 90 degrees. You may feel like it's too loose afterward, but if you follow that procedure it it will not be.
 
Outlander said to back off 1/2 turn... just verified several sources after I instinctively wrote 90 degrees. It is 90 degrees or 1/4 turn.
 
REVROK said:
Outlander said to back off 1/2 turn... just verified several sources after I instinctively wrote 90 degrees. It is 90 degrees or 1/4 turn.
Click to expand...

:doh: Oops... he said 1/4 turn, guess I read 1/2. His advice is perfect, except for turning the rotor as you torque the inner nut (Gets the air bubbles out of the grease so that you don't get compression or lubrication issues).
 
cool. that works. It makes more sense now. SO I do the 150-200 foot pounds to pre load the bearings, back it off, and go to 50 foot pounds. sounds good. spinning the rotor the entire time. sounds easy enough.
 
ordered dana 44 synergy ball joints today from Poly. Shipping today, here tomorrow probably. 262$ taxed and shipped with free shipping and some discount, thats 262$ with the 20$ grease that synergy sells. Im pretty sure everyone else sells these same joints for around 250$+shipping+tax+20$ for grease so its not too bad...

found spare pass side chromo (dude only gave me a driver side shaft as a spare) for 229$ , didnt order yet, PM'd some naxja vendors to see if they could beat that price:

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i...y-4340-passenger-side-front-axle-assembl.html

my guess is they are possibly blemished yukons maybe
 
50 ft lbs on the inner nut then rotate the rotor...double check the torque...
back off 1/4 turn then you tighten the outer lock nut to 150-175 ft lbs to keep the inner from moving... The final torque on the inner nut ends up being about 15 in-lbs or about how tight you can make a socket by hand without a ratchet handle. The final on the outer again is 150-175 (some say 215).
 
OK got it.
 
so the pass side shaft wasnt chromo, it was stock, and the Ujoint was shot. the guy lied. the pass side ball joints where shot. already figured that out. the high steer arm was crazy loose. had to crank them down.


the spindle nuts on the driver side where not nearly as tight as the passenger side, they came off with no problem, whereas the pass side spindle nuts where a pain in the ass.

I also think the spindle might have been compromised, but I need to spend more time on it.

so i am going to order some real chromos (driver side was 4340) from rwkhaus.

the hub on the driver side had a stripped bolt and I had to drill it out. which sucked.


so i have new warn premium hubs, bearings, and synergy ball joints. Now I need to potentially order a driver side hub and spindle, and spindle nuts.

at the very least spindle nuts.
 
synergy ball joints:



grease:



pass shaft is stock:


the hi steer arm was super loose, all 3 bolts:



popped off both spindles and hubs shafts etc etc





heres the one chromo, pass side



the driver side lower ball joint was beat, like basically he broke a shaft on the driver side at some point, since the driver side hub was also fubar.

god this guy either lied his ass off, or , was dumb as living shit.
 
I always figure the lies into the price I'm willing to pay... Knowing you my friend, you did as well. ;) Which ujoints are you getting? For the money I like Alloy USA, of course ctm's are the best ... 8x price. Are the warns 30 or 19 spline outer? As long as you are buying new shafts 30 should be as cheap and you should be able to exchange the warns if they're 19. Free strength upgrades are a nice bonus.
 
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