Rebuilding a stroker after a dead cam (Long..)

[BBeach]

http://www.valvoline.com/products/Durablend.pdf
Says that there is zinc in the gasoline engine oil, is that not enough? ".083" Im not sure if thats how much % there is or if its a different unit? Anyone know what it is for diesel?

 

[Pro Stock John]

I run 40 or 50 weight oil with my race car setups, and I take them to 7200 most of the time.

 

[Frank Z]

http://www.valvoline.com/products/Durablend.pdf
Says that there is zinc in the gasoline engine oil, is that not enough? ".083" Im not sure if thats how much % there is or if its a different unit? Anyone know what it is for diesel?

Yes that is the percentage of zinc.

 

[BBeach]

Is that a good enough amount to what you think would be required, or at least to that of diesel? I checked the diesel sheets but couldnt find the zinc % in them.

 

[Frank Z]

If you Google Rotella and Zinc you'll get more info than you can shake a dead cat at.

 

[Rob Patterson]

I need to get a new oil pump for my stroker. Why do so many people use a HV oil pump? I was under the impression that a HV pump was only necessary when running looser (sp?) bearing tolerances. I would think a standard blueprinted oil pump would be more than adequate with stock bearing clearances. Am I missing something?

Thanks,

 

[Flash]

this is what i found when i did a quick search on google!

http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html


It's kind of a long article but.......... in the first 4 Paragraphs will answer your .083% question.

I, my self, am going back to finish that article :read:


Flash.

 

[BBeach]

I googled it and didnt find much, however judging by the rotella website it says you can use for both diesel and gasoline, saying it meets diesel requirements and exceeds gasoline requirements. http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?siteId=rotella-en&FC2=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/zzz_lhn.html&FC3=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/product_rotellasynth.html

 

[Flash]

I need to get a new oil pump for my stroker. Why do so many people use a HV oil pump? I was under the impression that a HV pump was only necessary when running looser (sp?) bearing tolerances. I would think a standard blueprinted oil pump would be more than adequate with stock bearing clearances. Am I missing something?

Thanks,

Just my opinion by why by a i volume pump when you don't twist these eng past 5500 rpm(old school rule of them said that you need 10 psi for every 1000 rpm).........55 psi at a 5500 rpm........ya i thing the stock pump can do that!

Flash

 

[BBeach]

"Can I use a diesel motor oil in a car?
Yes. Many camshaft manufacturers recommend the use of diesel oils, many even name Shell Rotella T as their preferred engine oil, along with some form of Zn and P additive, such as GM EOS. The only mention I have seen as to a reason not to use a diesel oil would be the lack of friction modifiers in diesel oils vs car oils, but on the other side of the fence, usually friction modifiers are typically only used in very low viscosity motor oils that don't have the levels of Zn and P we are looking for.
The newest CJ-4 formulations are now limited in the amounts of Zn and P allowed, compared to the CI-4 forumations most users are familar with. I would recommend adding GM EOS to these newest CJ-4 oils as well because of this or keep to using CI-4 or CI-4 Plus oils. "

 

[Flash]

I googled it and didnt find much, however judging by the rotella website it says you can use for both diesel and gasoline, saying it meets diesel requirements and exceeds gasoline requirements. http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?siteId=rotella-en&FC2=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/zzz_lhn.html&FC3=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/product_rotellasynth.html

Thats the point. Diesel oil is the cheap way to get the pressure additive we need with out going to a race oil.

I have said it before and i will say it again. If your jeep 4.0 is stock, in the cam and valve area. the new low Zinc automotive oils will more then likely work just fine......BUT if you put a bigger cam and valve spring in it.....WATCH OUT! If its going to live, you had better understand that the standard(of to day!!!!) automotive oils will kill you HP cam shaft !!!

You will need to have a hire percentage of of the pressure additive in there.


Flash

 

[BBeach]

So is there any advantage/disadvantage longevity-wise or performance wise in using diesel oil vs gasoline oil in a stock 4.0??

 

[Flash]

So is there any advantage/disadvantage longevity-wise or performance wise in using diesel oil vs gasoline oil in a stock 4.0??

Short answer is YES Peace of mind!!!!

Only time will tell for sure but........I have heard of many HP cams failures........not one stock cam.

I'm not going to takes any chances 15/40 diesel for me........untill they reduce the zinc in them too!


Flash.

 

[Flash]

reading in that article i posted above....it said 1 bottle (pint) of GM EOS with every oil change to boost the Zinc level BUT if the oil has less the .100(they recommend that you keep the level between .120 -.140(12 to 14%) They rec you find a oil that has at least .100 (10%) and then add the GM EOS.
They said that it would take to much GM EOS to be worth while!

Flash.

 

[Bones]

I ended up going with the Comp CL68-232-4 set up.

...so much but this one has a bit less duration. Though it might raise my dynamic compression some.

Edit, I meant less overlap not less duration.

Bones :skull1:

 

[Bones]

the biggest problem with diesel oil, around here, is finding it in a less than molasses weight. my zj before this had 204k miles on it, switched o mobil 1 at 95k.... 109k on mobil 1, no cam issues. maybe its the crane cams??

WalMart carries both 15-40 and 10-30 CI4 diesel oils locally, as does O'Riellys.

Bones :skull1:

 

[Frank Z]

I'm running a Melling High Volume oil pump in my motor. I opted for the HV pump because the cost was about the same and it cetainly does move some oil! The more oil I move accross the lifter bores, the better.

 

[Rob Patterson]

Pictures of cylinder bore finish

Here are 3 pictures of the cylinders.
The 1st picture is of a good cylinder like 2-5.
The 2nd picture is #1 cylinder with the smooth section half way down.
The 3rd picture is #6 cylinder with a smaller smooth section.

Good Cylinder

#1 cylinder

#6 cylinder

I can't feel any ridge at these smooth spots and they feel smoother than the rest of the cylinder with the crosshatching.

What do you think?

Thanks,

 

[Flash]

I have look and look at them pic...................


short answer...run it, its fine.

I would say that the 2nt and the and 3d piston are normal!!!

the first one has had done, what i recommend, you do to all the rest!(will be fine if you don't)

#2&3 pic have the original cross hatch that was put into then when the eng was built...... the #1 pic is a hand made cross hatch over the original cross hatch

Have you heard of piston rings collapsing after a head had been shaved on a high( 100,000+) mileages eng.?????

If you us some 40 grit sand paper and then 80 grit on it(trying to put the cross hatch pattern back into the bore) it will look like #1.

taking the glaze off of a high mileage eng can prevent the collapse ring problem(your is to low of mileage to worry about it1)

There is nothing wrong with it.

I would be more worried about the rod and main bearing......and all the mettle that has been ingested due to the cam failures!

Flash.

 

[tealcherokee]

bore it, new pistons, new rings