Rear Ford 9 shave

[XJ_ranger]

after dragging my low pinion, low clearance ford 9 all over everywhere, leaving yellow paint all over the place, the metal actually wore through and sprang a leak, so I had to do something.

my inital attempts to weld it up, full of gear oil only resulted in flaming streams of very hot gear oil falling on me, and a bigger, leakier hole...

so I pulled the axle out of the vehicle, pulled the shafts and the 3rd member, and Scrappy decided to attack my axle with a plasma cutter...

I drilled a hole and made a line -

big friggen hole -

high tech prototyping of a plate -

plate VS cutoff part -

welded it up inside and out -

inside shot -

outside shot showing the 10ga i wraped the ring gear with -

installed and painted black -

 

[rock rash]

black?!

 

[87xjco]

Looks good!

9" install is my next project after the HP44 front install. I may do the same thing if I keep the stock housing.

 

[Starboard M]

black?!

Nothing like a black shaved 9'' in the back:sure:

 

[lamula]

Nice penetration

 

[IslanderXJ]

Nice penetration

Try photobucket.com

 

[corbinafly]

Scrappy's gonna go blind if he keeps doin' that...:wierd:
Looks good man.

 

[Mr.OverKill]

nice work, i would have used 3/16 plate or better for the bottom and the ring wrap though, but thats just me!! LOL OverKill Baby!!

Looks good black too.

 

[TNT]

nice work, i would have used 3/16 plate or better for the bottom and the ring wrap though, but thats just me!! LOL OverKill Baby!!

Looks good black too.

I have a 9" axle I'm building and I think 1/4" for the bottom and 3/16" for the ring gear is what I will use. I'm also building a rear mounted truss and a upper truss too. I'll either use 3/16" or 1/8" for the trusses.

 

[XJ_ranger]

nice work, i would have used 3/16 plate or better for the bottom and the ring wrap though, but thats just me!! LOL OverKill Baby!!

Looks good black too.

the bottom is 1/4"

thje ring gear wrap is 10ga

I have a sizeable dent in the bottom already, so perhaps 5/16" for the bottom should have been in order...

 

[TNT]

the bottom is 1/4"

thje ring gear wrap is 10ga

I have a sizeable dent in the bottom already, so perhaps 5/16" for the bottom should have been in order...

That makes me think 3/8" is a good idea. Thanks for the update.

 

[Ghost]

What was the net gain under the diff? .5"

 

[Matt S.]

What was the net gain under the diff? .5"

Closer to 2.5" IIRC. It was a shiatload.

 

[Ghost]

Closer to 2.5" IIRC. It was a shiatload.

Got any hard evidence? That seems liek a bit much. I could believe 1" but 2.5"?

 

[Gravesdiggerxj]

saw this on pirate. I want to see some measurements so I can shave my nine.

 

[XJ_ranger]

saw this on pirate. I want to see some measurements so I can shave my nine.

mark a line

cut

go 'oh fawk! i didnt cut evenly!'

cut more so its even

make a cardboard template

trace a cardboard template onto steel

cut it out

weld it up

I did no measuring...

 

[XJ_ranger]

Got any hard evidence? That seems liek a bit much. I could believe 1" but 2.5"?

the box tube that is the table in this picture is 2"x2"

it has more clearance than Ron's Currie HD housing...

 

[Ghost]

the box tube that is the table in this picture is 2"x2"

it has more clearance than Ron's Currie HD housing...

Ok and it looks twice the size of the curved peice on the table. crappy photo too.

 

[Captain Ron]

saw this on pirate. I want to see some measurements so I can shave my nine.

I'll walk you through it.

First, you'll need to brush up on projecting auxillary planes, and intersecting oblique planes on a spheroid.

Do this to scale on a large piece of paper, preferable on an Axonometric board. The oblique intersection should be just below the tangent of your ring gear, minus a material thickness.

After you have all of your projection lines layed out, intesect, and tangentally blend, taking into account the seams and various material thicknesses of the housing at all points.

You can cut this out with common scissors. Position the pattern carefully, and trace with white chalk, wraping the pattern over the uneven surfaces as you go, exercising care not to let the pattern "slip" at any point.

If the line does not "meet" at the end of your trace, start over, you let it slip during the process.

Ok, if you didn't put the housing up on some blocks at an easily workable height, do it now. Position the housing so the greatest area of the tracing is at a 30 degree angle to the horizontal. This provides a good angle for moving the plasma torch, reaching as much of the trace as possible in one even, smooth, movement.

Plug in the plasma, hook up the source of compressed air, and turn on the switch. We're gonna melt some metal.

If you are right handed, hold the torch in that hand. You want a light grip on the torch. Do not "press" the torch against the surface of the housing, but rather, "drag" it along the surface. Practice following the trace in one smooth movement.

Now, you don't want to start your cut "on the line". Rookie move. Rather, you want to start inside of the trace, start the torch, and drag out to the trace at a fairly perpendicular angle, transitioning right into the trace.

You're set to go. Position the torch at your starting point, and put your left hand over both eyes to protect them from flying sparks. Start and complete your cut as practiced.

Don't worry if your cut line does not come anywhere on the same housing close to where you started. They didn't either.



--ron

 

[XJ_ranger]

Ok and it looks twice the size of the curved peice on the table. crappy photo too.

sorry i couldn't be more helpful in your endeavors...