Fixed.
Quick math shows about $450 in JUST fuel. Chances just got a whole heck of a lot smaller. It is still a few months out though.
Project Downward Spiral
- Thread starter RCman
- Start date
Quick math shows about $450 in JUST fuel. Chances just got a whole heck of a lot smaller. It is still a few months out though.
5spd_xj
<<the good ol days
- Location
- Dracut, MA
Fixed.
Quick math shows about $450 in JUST fuel. Chances just got a whole heck of a lot smaller. It is still a few months out though.
fixed or not, the fact remains that you didn't think of me. :bawl: :bawl: :bawl:
foxwar71
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Foxboro, MA
I thought when I went from stock and 30's to built and 35's was a big jump and took a while to get used too. Youre going for the extreme jump. I cant wait til I take my extreme jump, figuratively and literally
Im always down for a trip. Once you and a couple of others get trailers and such, Im gunna bug the crap outta you guys for a trip out to the Rockies
Maybe I'm not trying to raise suspicions. :shhh:
Yeah, that brings up another good point toward the cash issue.Im always down for a trip. Once you and a couple of others get trailers and such, Im gunna bug the crap outta you guys for a trip out to the Rockies
I need a few more parts for the Jeep, but most of all a trailer.
There ain't no bugging going to be needed.
time2getdirty
my cats breath smells
- Location
- Cheyenne, Wyoming
I cant wait to see it run!
Good job and congrats.
Its coming together like a puzzle!
Good job and congrats.
Its coming together like a puzzle!
yeah remember them cool knuckles and tcase for my rig no cool trips for me this year
foxwar71
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Foxboro, MA
Ive already done my part and found you a trailer for sale once or twice. That, or you could buy mine for enough for me to buy a 5th wheel setup. then ill even be a nice guy and tow your jeep for you cross country, since well you know, you only gots a 5.3
You an I both know the trailers you found were not up to "my specs".Ive already done my part and found you a trailer for sale once or twice. That, or you could buy mine for enough for me to buy a 5th wheel setup. then ill even be a nice guy and tow your jeep for you cross country, since well you know, you only gots a 5.3
Your trailer is only a 7000GVW and is open deck right?
Ideally I'm looking for a 16'-18', full wood decked, 10K GVW, dual electric brakes, slide in ramps, etc.
Enough on that, dinner's over, time to finish the exhaust.
Last edited:
Begster
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cape Cod/Boston, Mass
WTF, what am I, chopped liver?
I guess you were serious about that NAPA comment the other day...
Jeff 98XJ WI
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Butternut, WI
Well, aside from a few things I got done this weekend. I wasted a few hours messing with (and ~$30) front D60 inner axle seals.
I wanted to use the new Ford SD style seals as they are supposed to retain oil much better. However part of the seal interferes with the tube as it enters the center section. Odd as I've read lots of people run this seal in non SD D60s with no issues at all.
The part of the seal that interferes can be seen below. The seal on the left, the smaller diameter rubber coated part that faces the middle of the picture. It hits the tube tube and either bends it out of wack (yes, going in straight) or binds.
So it looks like I'll have to run the less desired seal and hope that I don't have gear oil coming out my tubes. This seal pictured below.
The other downside is nobody around here carries the traditional seal so I'll have to wait a couple days and order it.
I was planning to use the same seal in my rear HP 60 but after reading this I had to take a closer look at them. I did some searching and really didn't find anything, so I tried a few things. I ruined one seal trying to stuff it into my test tube...the short tube from a '89 Ford HP 60 front removed by torching and then using an electric die grinder on the plug welds. Apparently the metal lip on the back of the seal will NOT pass the second ridge in the stock seal bore. It got bent over and pushed the seal together some how. This ruined the seal.
So, I decided to try grinding the metal lip off and then took a little off the rubber axle guide as well.
After this, the seal installed in the tube bore while allowing the inner portion to be free from interference.
Here is a shot through one of the holes where one can see the rubber of the seal just clearing the relief cut in the end of the tube.
Here an axle shaft is installed through the installed seal. I found the inner portion of the seal wanted to push through the portion pressed in though. Previously, the lip I ground off would have prevented that.
Here is the seal and axle shaft through one of the plug weld holes.
So, this modified seal should work as long as the inner portion is not pushed far enough beyond the outer portion to damage the seal during axle shaft installation. Perhaps the shaft could be pushed in beyond normal and then pulled back out a touch to align it in the steering knuckle? This would tend to center the inner portion on the outer portion better.
One downside to this is that in order to drive the seal back out of the tube, one would probably damage the sealing rubber since the seal is now missing the inner metal lip that would push on the outer pressed in piece when pushing from the outer end of the axle tube. So, I'll probably have to purchase two more of these, modify them and install them ONE time only. I just thought I would chime in on this issue in your thread. I hope you don't mind. Jeff
foxwar71
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Foxboro, MA
5spd_xj
<<the good ol days
- Location
- Dracut, MA
You always know how to smooth things over :loveu:
Come for the ride. I'll need someone to chat with when the wife falls asleep 10min out of the driveway.
No, just if I started listing everyone I'd like to go with me from
, the list would be huge. I try. :roll:
First off, I never mind tech! Please post away.
You nailed exactly the issue I ran into. Having that short section of axle tube seemed to really pay off. It looks like a good solution however I’d be worried about pulling the shaft on the trail and then pushing the seal back or out of place upon reinstall. While the pushing it past and pulling the shaft back method might work it is something that would still be in the back of my mind and you’d never know until you started leaking at which point it is too late to fix.
Which I guess brings up another point. Being a rear axle, you’ll need to have the outer bearings lubricated whether is be a SF or FF. What are your plans for that? I searched few a few minutes in your thread but didn’t find anything.
I ended up just using the older style seals. The biggest issue with those seems to be the muck/gunk that gets against the seal from the outside and wears it out. While it was a bit extra cash I didn't want to spend, I am thinking the outer axle seals I picked up should stop that entirely. Of course that doesn’t really doesn't work in a rear application.
Thanks again for finding a solution. Surely it will help someone else looking to do the same thing.
Jeff 98XJ WI
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Butternut, WI
As for my rear setup I built a custom flange that will be welded to the end of the axle tubes. From that flange out, the rear will be a copy of the front. If the front can live on grease packed bearings, the rear ought to be able to as well. So that's my plan. Keep the fluid in the diff and lube the wheel bearings with grease. One could probably leave the diff seals out and let the lube run to the end of the tubes and hopefully work it's way into the hub and bearings. That is how a normal full float works. However, I'm just afraid of gear oil getting passed all the components and dripping out.
As for the modified seals, upon inspection of the carrier, it looks like there is 1/8" or perhaps less between the end of the axle tubes and the carrier bearing, so the moveable part of the seal can only move this far before contacting the carrier bearing. It looks like the unmodified seal can move somewhere around the same amount, so I think when the diff is in place, the moveable portion of the seal will be captivated well enough to not allow it to move off the seal portion of the piece that gets pressed into the tube end. One will never know for sure until they give it a shot though. Jeff
As for the modified seals, upon inspection of the carrier, it looks like there is 1/8" or perhaps less between the end of the axle tubes and the carrier bearing, so the moveable part of the seal can only move this far before contacting the carrier bearing. It looks like the unmodified seal can move somewhere around the same amount, so I think when the diff is in place, the moveable portion of the seal will be captivated well enough to not allow it to move off the seal portion of the piece that gets pressed into the tube end. One will never know for sure until they give it a shot though. Jeff
I got a lot accomplished this weekend.
The entire belly pan minus the UHMW skin is complete. It was a lot of work to get it up nice and highhow I wanted it, but should be well worth the extra time.
No pictures for now, I'll shoot some when I take it back down to drill/tap the holes for attaching the UHMW.
I would like to note that much of that work wouldn't have been possible without a kind "donation" of steel from Rob (nhrocker) and it's transportation by Rob (ROBZ95Xj). Thanks again guys!
The entire belly pan minus the UHMW skin is complete. It was a lot of work to get it up nice and highhow I wanted it, but should be well worth the extra time.
No pictures for now, I'll shoot some when I take it back down to drill/tap the holes for attaching the UHMW.
I would like to note that much of that work wouldn't have been possible without a kind "donation" of steel from Rob (nhrocker) and it's transportation by Rob (ROBZ95Xj). Thanks again guys!
Last edited:
foxwar71
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Foxboro, MA
:bs: no proof, no love
whats the deal with the UHMW by the way?
whats the deal with the UHMW by the way?
I'm not here to please you.
What do you mean?
I might end up with HHDS which basically is a modified version of UHMW that withstands higher temps. It is all going to come down to cost as now I'm going to be using 1/2" rather than 3/8".
Getting there. Soon I hope.
Some textual updates in bullet form but it is still going to be long winded:
- 4'x8'x1/2" UHMW ordered and picked up. This stuff should work very nicely.
- Inner fenders trimmed and cut for tire clearance. Holes patched back up.
- Cut down the stock front drive shaft. Super easy, took me 1/2 the time I was expecting. Once the rest of my Spicer 5-785x joints show up I'll finish it up.
- Ordered up a new rear drive shaft from Jess @ High Angle.
- I will be able to keep the stock battery box. It is super duper tight, but spacing it up a little saves me a ton of work (and money) relocating it to the back. I still might do it at a later date.
- Everything was working out great to allow me to keep the stock airbox after it too was moved up some due to the new inner fender shape. That was until I realized I needed a good place to mount the PS reservoir that was higher than the pump. I fabbed up a quick mount for the reservoir and it'll work great; clears the hood by just enough. I will end up using one of those cone air filters but nothing I can do about that.
- Threw a battery into it and cranked it over for a few seconds. Cranks like a champ. :laugh: I just wanted to be sure the engine was alright after sitting for so long before assembling the entire front end. No reason it shouldn't be, just wanted to be sure. Built up just about 55-60psi oil pressure as well, I'm good.
- Cleaned up the pulleys with some WD-40, scotch bright, and 600 grit. They had some surface rust from sitting, not any more.
- Mounted my new PSC TC pump, put the belt on then quickly realized something wasn't right as the belt was hitting the bracket. After pulling off the pump and taking some measurements it turns out that the stock pump from the front of the mounting holes to the inside edge of the pulley is ~1". My new PSC pump was close to just shy of 7/8". So I cut up the bracket, cut a piece of wood to use as a spacer and welded up the bracket just strong of 1/8" further outward from the manifold. Turned up some quick spacers for behind the pump to make up for the extra distance and remounted everything. Belt now runs perfect. Not a huge deal, but still something that eats time.
- Walbro pickups are in. I started configuring them in the tank and they should work out great. I’ve got three; one in the sump, two in the back corners.
I’m sure there is something I’m missing in the above. Basically this weekend was a bunch of the little stuff. My next goal is to get it idling, but I’ve got a lot of work to get to that point.a
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
I always wonder about this. Doesn't this make it more likely to run dry? Seems to me that if any of the pickups get above the level of the fuel in the tank the line to the pump inlet will drain out, which will result in you losing fuel pressure. Seems to me you'd have to use some funky check valve or tank pressurization system to make multiple pickups beneficial.
Similar threads
