Probably should do this

When i did emissions in my old jeep i had the exhaust dumped right after the muffler, before the rear axle and it went fine. The guy crawled underneath and probed the pipe. :eyes:

See the dude in Vancouver wouldn't do that. Said it was against company policy to crawl under the jeep. So I have my tail pipe right at the back side of the bumper. Its easy & no hassles.
 
Well I trimmed the inner fender crap out so that it looks better and nice. Just got done changing the front axle oil, it needed it bad!! It was black and I don't like that lol coming soon ill do the rear. This time I'm going to get a line locker hopefully, the paper gasket and rtv sealant is a pain in the butt lol other than that, the diff look good, no pitting or cracks or anything so I'm retry happy. That's all for now.
 
Nice, ya mine is missing the hub covers, I think only one wheel has it? Lol
I never really understood the difference between SE and sport lol but I'm perfectly content with mine lol has only the mirrors as powered so less electrical issues to deal with
 
You would do fine on majority of trails up there.. You should try and make turkey day run on the Saturday... Welcome, btw... Im in Albany, soon moving to an acre in Jefferson... Good bunch of guys in the NW chapter... NWjscott loved my Chopper dog:-) ask sometime about that... Lol
 
Sadly I can't make the turkey run(work) but I am shooting for the toy/tree run. The only issue is getting my ball joints replaced and the time to do it. Other than that my rig is stout.
Curious though, since I changed the oil in my front axle, the inside of my jeep keeps smelling of oil???? The only explanation I could think of is that since I fixed my torn vent hose that maybe the smell is raising out of the vent and working its way in to the cowl but with the fan on I don't smell it though??? Anything thoughts lol
 
So most around the Portland/salem area should see that it's raining VERY hard and a lot, I have a k&n cold air intake, meaning stock box and all that are gone. Am I safe from water lock? The cone filter is over the area where the stock box was. Just want to make sure since there are some streets being flooded and I don't want my engine dying on me.

Side note, I'm not barreling through the puddles or purposely swerving in to them but slowing down and such.
 
You will be fine, water would have to be half way up your grill before you should start to worry. I drove mine into a pond down at an off road park in California, it was pretty deep, over my hood almost, my sputtered but didnt die, I got pretty lucky.
I think if you drive it in and kill it thats when yiu need to worry, if that eer happens dont try to start it, pull all the spark plugs and crank it over several times with the spark plugs out to clear the water out of the cyliders.
 
Alright looking around, picking stuff up for the 8th I ran in to a confusion with tow straps, they have not one rating but random numerous ratings and I'm confused on it.
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Which one is best suited? I know 10k is the best but I'm confused with the 40,000 and 30,000 rating on it?? Isn't that overkill?
Reason being is the first pic also says 10,000 after the 5k rating??? I'm lost lol
Also saw this in the marine section, seems like with a bit of dremeling, this could make for a great air filter on the engine head?
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What do you guys think?
 
It's ghetto alright lol just thought I'd save a few bucks since its only $6 compare to the small filters from spectre and k&n plus its meant to filter out most stuff so putting it in place compared to others, could work just fine lol
 
Sorta update, got some seafoam and poured 1-3 of it through the vacuum line from the brake booster, amazingly enough when I started it back up, it only smoked for a few second which leads me to believe that after 190k miles, not much carbon could be in my engine lol. Seems a little better but then again that could be me tricking myself lol
But it did help me to listen closer to my exhaust and I'm not sure if its a misfire or what
Wish I could upload sound lol

Also since I was listening more closely I noticed when I have my defroster/heater on that when I'm idling ill get these moment where the power goes down and the lights will dim but come back. Does it I think when the fan or something kicks on? Dying alternates or just need to upgrade to a grand chero alter?
 
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Thats the power draw, and additional drag on the motor when the clutch kicks on for the A/C compressor. ...in defrost mode it acts as a "dehydrator" of sorts, and helps remove some of the moisture from the air. Freshening up or upgrading your grounds will help somewhat, and some additional amperage never hurts in any case.
 
Thats the power draw, and additional drag on the motor when the clutch kicks on for the A/C compressor. ...in defrost mode it acts as a "dehydrator" of sorts, and helps remove some of the moisture from the air. Freshening up or upgrading your grounds will help somewhat, and some additional amperage never hurts in any case.

this is good info josh! just remember that nothing installed by the factory should cause your lights to dim. id seriously replace and add some good grounds. you may have a dieing battery (it just got cold) and it may be worth a trip to the parts store to test the alternator.

corotion sould be the redflag. if you see it, just start replaceing wire, its cheap:thumbup: and isnt guna hurt a thing.

Bronze.
 
Absolutely right! Thanks Bronze.
Dimming lights are a sign that the battery is loosing its capacitance, or its ability to store and discharge energy at a specific rate. OR...that the electrical connections leading to & from the battery are degrading so much to the point of which they are creating more resistance to the electron flow than what they are passing along (or are supposed to pass along) .... I'd recommend doing a good wire and contact inspection, and clean and/or replace what's needed. You may find that alone will cure some issues.
 
Well I'm trying to fix the leak in my passenger side and its worse than I thought, not major but worse than what I was hoping for
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It's pretty soaked, trying to dry it the best before I seal the plug. Since there is surface rust what should I do? Just grind or sand down to bare and then hit it with a rust protector or something else? Trying to stop it before it gets worse
 
Curious if people can direct to an answer if this is a aftermarket battery holder or not?
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I know it has a battery strap/tie down but the plastic battery holder is cracked and I don't know if this is stock or not?
 
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