Stumpalump
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Franktown Co.
Darn good point! By the time you adjust the ACOS bumpstop down far enough to even take advantage of the bump travel it will sit way lower than a stock ACOS. Heck that low and like you sais all the rubbing and angle problems you could end up running the bottom of the hydro bum right thru or against a coil wrap. At least with the weld in type you could raise them up then build up the lower coil bucket for height. I wonder what the minimum lenght is for a ACOS pro vs a standard ACOS? Just called them and heres what I got. It's a 2" hydro bump that is made by radflow. Minimum extended lenght will put you at exacly 2" longer than a standard ACOS. The treaded tube and diameter is the same for both but to install the pro you cut off the factory tower and bolt the top thru the body. Since the top of the standard ACOS is threaded for the ACOS tube you could drill and mount it the same way and find a radflow 2" bumpstop that will slide into the tube and..........no more time to play right now but gives some ideas to toss around.Roxtar said:My concern for those ACOS hydros is in protecting them.
A big problem with lifted Jeeps is having the spring bow.
The stock bumpstops hit the inside of the springs and you end up with a compromise. Setting up the stops to bottom at a right angle forces you to accept some spring rub on the way down. Avoiding the spring rub leads to a funky angle when they bottom.
Obviously neither of these scenarios are acceptable with $900 hydro bumpstops.
Longarm four or three link setups help but don't get rid of this completely.