PICS: DIY Hydraulic Assist, Box Modifications, Ram selection, Saginaw Rebuild kit....

[ashmanjeepxj]

Re: PICS: DIY Hydraulic Assist, Box Modifications, Ram selection, Saginaw Rebuild kit....

I used to carry a section of hose that will go between the two -6 JIC ports on the ram (makes a burly steering damper) or you have to take the ram off because if it is capped it will not allow the rod to move in or out...

You can just cap the lines since they just deadhead with no piston to drive and then the box is a standard p/s gear box...

Also if you use field servicable fittings you can repair hoses on the trail - a air power die grinder with a ziz wheel make cutting hydro hose simple and keeps the mangle factor down...

Some spare fluid, hose and a few fittings make up my full hydro spares kit - no worries, we can fix that!

Matt

No, I mean plug the box, not the ram or the lines.
Mostlikely the ram will get dented/bent or the lines will rip/get cut. Carying plugs for the box would solve either failure.

 

[Matt]

Re: PICS: DIY Hydraulic Assist, Box Modifications, Ram selection, Saginaw Rebuild kit....

Gotcha - that works too; kinda hard to plug the box when it is a full hydro setup

Matt

 

[littlered351]

Re: PICS: DIY Hydraulic Assist, Box Modifications, Ram selection, Saginaw Rebuild kit....

I just used this thread for my hydro asst.
I know someone else can use it also...

 

[ashmanjeepxj]

Re: PICS: DIY Hydraulic Assist, Box Modifications, Ram selection, Saginaw Rebuild kit....

Ill just jump into my old thread while it on top.

I ran the 1.5in 3/4 X 8in ram on my d60 welded with 42s for a full year no issues.

My box and ram were sold last month to a local guy $250, and Im now doing full hydraulic steering, not for more steering power, but because my v8 swap needs a larger radiator and moving to a small steering valve over a steering box saves space.

My full hydraulic system uses forklift steering parts, budgeted to $300 for steering valve, ram and lines. So far $175 for the steering valve and sector shaft. my 211-1035 has a manual chack valve for manual steering, open center, not load sencing (optional 5th port not desired), not load reactive (return to center optional), and not power beyond (optional 5th port cool for rear steer can be pluged), 7.33cuin/rev displacment will get me the ideal 3-4 turns clock to clock depending on my ram choice.

 

[jstlink]

i know this will be retarded but here goes....this is for an xj steering box?i have a n 89' xj and just actually put a brand new steering box in.so would all these specs apply to that box you did?or is that a different steering box from the xj?and having a new box,i'm assuming i wouldnt need to rebuiold the box with all new seals...or would i?and last,to add a ram assist,do i need to get more flow from the pump?if so....how?

 

[ashmanjeepxj]

i know this will be retarded but here goes....this is for an xj steering box?i have a n 89' xj and just actually put a brand new steering box in.so would all these specs apply to that box you did?or is that a different steering box from the xj?and having a new box,i'm assuming i wouldnt need to rebuiold the box with all new seals...or would i?and last,to add a ram assist,do i need to get more flow from the pump?if so....how?

Your box is the same. you need to still diss assemble it to drill and tap it. you will not need new seals unless you rip on taking it apart, you should be ok.

The pump has flow and pressure mods, I never did either on my pump so no you dont need it.

 

[Redcbr007]

Re: PICS: DIY Hydraulic Assist, Box Modifications, Ram selection, Saginaw Rebuild kit....

there is no way to drill and tap the box without dissasembling it? I have a brand new box, and kinda nervious to tear it apart

I have a mill I can do the drill / tapping on so I dont go to deep if that helps. (I can also use a flat-head drill bit towars the end..)

 

[JEONLYEP]

It probably could be done. BUT, to take it apart for the drilling and tapping isn't that bad. I'd be more worried about metal shavings getting into it from the drilling and tapping and ruining the internal seals, than I would be about taking the box down to the point that it can be cleaned out properly.


DAryl

 

[Redcbr007]

I probably could be done. BUT, to take it apart for the drilling and tapping isn't that bad. I'd be more worried about metal shavings getting into it from the drilling and tapping and ruining the internal seals, than I would be about taking the box down to the point that it can be cleaned out properly.


DAryl

so is rebuilding (changing seals bearing etc..) a different process in the tearing down of the box? Or is just tapping (not rebuilding) a pretty simple process. I am thing you remove the screws, and pull out the main shaft in 1 piece, then drill / tap and slide back in. Is this correct, or is it way more involved?

 

[JEONLYEP]

so is rebuilding (changing seals bearing etc..) a different process in the tearing down of the box? Or is just tapping (not rebuilding) a pretty simple process. I am thing you remove the screws, and pull out the main shaft in 1 piece, then drill / tap and slide back in. Is this correct, or is it way more involved?

Total rebuild with new seals and everything has more disassembly, if I remember correctly.

To open it up for drilling and tapping is just taking the three main shafts out of it. The pitman shaft out the top, the main piston (for lack of a better word) out the front, and the input screw out the back.

The most intimidating thing is the 20 or so ball bearings that will have to be placed back in between the input shaft and the piston. Some grease to hold the ball bearings in place and a steady hand are all that's needed there. Just remember that the ball bearings are two sizes. The chromed ones are what really transfers the load from the input screw to the piston. The ever so slightly smaller black balls are just spacers between the load bearing bearings.

I had no experience with steering boxes before I did mine. I used page one of this thread and things went quite smoothly.

I'd say that if your mechanically inclined, it's not a hard job. I took photos of mine at each step so I could see where things came from/went to. But I didn't really need that. It all makes sense where it belongs once you see it in the open.

I'd say it's 2.5 to 3 wrenches on a scale of 5.

DAryl

 

[Redcbr007]

Total rebuild with new seals and everything has more disassembly, if I remember correctly.

To open it up for drilling and tapping is just taking the three main shafts out of it. The pitman shaft out the top, the main piston (for lack of a better word) out the front, and the input screw out the back.

The most intimidating thing is the 20 or so ball bearings that will have to be placed back in between the input shaft and the piston. Some grease to hold the ball bearings in place and a steady hand are all that's needed there. Just remember that the ball bearings are two sizes. The chromed ones are what really transfers the load from the input screw to the piston. The ever so slightly smaller black balls are just spacers between the load bearing bearings.

I had no experience with steering boxes before I did mine. I used page one of this thread and things went quite smoothly.

I'd say that if your mechanically inclined, it's not a hard job. I took photos of mine at each step so I could see where things came from/went to. But I didn't really need that. It all makes sense where it belongs once you see it in the open.

I'd say it's 2.5 to 3 wrenches on a scale of 5.

DAryl

Sounds good! I guess I will tackle it tonight or this weekend depending on time. Is there a way you do not have to remove the ball bearings when disassembling it (being careful) or do they HAVE to be removed no mater what..?

Thanks

Patrick

 

[JEONLYEP]

Sounds good! I guess I will tackle it tonight or this weekend depending on time. Is there a way you do not have to remove the ball bearings when disassembling it (being careful) or do they HAVE to be removed no mater what..?

Thanks

Patrick

I think that they will remove them selves no matter what you do. I did read that there is a special tool available that will keep them in place, but I have no idea where someone could find that tool. I don't even remember where I read that. On one of the threads about hydro assist here on I'm sure.

Good luck.

DAryl

 

[Redcbr007]

I think that they will remove them selves no matter what you do. I did read that there is a special tool available that will keep them in place, but I have no idea where someone could find that tool. I don't even remember where I read that. On one of the threads about hydro assist here on I'm sure.

Good luck.

DAryl

OK, sorry for all the questions, but 1 more

When you ake the shaft out, and the bearing fall out, you have to make usre you dont loose them, and also place them back in order. What is the correct order (incase they fall out and I cant see how they were)? Ex: shiny / dull / shiney / etc...

How long would you say it takes ?

 

[ashmanjeepxj]

Sounds good! I guess I will tackle it tonight or this weekend depending on time. Is there a way you do not have to remove the ball bearings when disassembling it (being careful) or do they HAVE to be removed no mater what..?

Thanks

Patrick

If you do not unscrew this the balls will not fall out, But I think there is a smaller hole the spiral shafts goes through, so I think you do have to drop the balls. Mine were all the same no markings just put them all back in.

This piece will be on top of it so if you spin it the other piece will un screw

 

[Redcbr007]

Re: PICS: DIY Hydraulic Assist, Box Modifications, Ram selection, Saginaw Rebuild kit....

Ok, that makes sence...so I can almost just pull it straight out then without dealing with it all..correct? as long as I dont start spinning stuff...

-Red

 

[JEONLYEP]

But I think there is a smaller hole the spiral shafts goes through, so I think you do have to drop the balls.

The two will not go out the same side of the box, there isn't a big enough opening to allow that to happen. You will have to screw the input shaft off from the piston. Some boxes can have all the same sized balls, I'm guessing. But if you have two types they go back in as shinny, dull, shinny, dull, ect. ect.

I put all of mine back into the piston by covering them with grease, then putting them in the groove they travel in and moving them down and like the first 5 or 6 i pushed into the recirculating tube that's on the side of the large piston. I just kept pushing them in at the bottom of the piston until they started coming out of the top, then I just greased them and stuck them to the groove they run in.

Once all of the balls were back in place, I pushed the piston into the steering box, and then carefully screwed the input shaft in to the piston/balls through the other side of the box.

Good luck, it's easier than I think I'm making it sound. Once you have the box open and see how things work, it starts to make sense.

DAryl

 

[pierceME311]

Re: PICS: DIY Hydraulic Assist, Box Modifications, Ram selection, Saginaw Rebuild kit....

Thanks for all the pics ashman, I ordered a rebuild kit from rockauto.com and I'm going to my local PNP and getting a box or two (depending on price) and going to start my hydro build now that I finally have some time off I can anjoy some wrenchin' on my rig. The pics helped alot, I think I speak for alot of people when I say I am a visual learner, my assist is going on a D30 with 32's so I'll be taking pics to show all the guys with D turdy's

Kelvin

 

[97XJ2]

Re: PICS: DIY Hydraulic Assist, Box Modifications, Ram selection, Saginaw Rebuild kit....

Ok back from the dead with a question. You have to match the size of the stroke of your hydro ram to your steering travel, otherwise it will limit it correct? Also I would assume this could replace a steering stabilizer?

 

[C85D4x4]

Ok back from the dead with a question. You have to match the size of the stroke of your hydro ram to your steering travel, otherwise it will limit it correct? Also I would assume this could replace a steering stabilizer?

It will Limit it or Over stroke

If you have a ram you don't need the stabilizer.....but don't put it in the stock location or on stock steering if thats what yout talking about

 

[97XJ2]

Re: PICS: DIY Hydraulic Assist, Box Modifications, Ram selection, Saginaw Rebuild kit....

Yeah i get that, I just meant does it provide dampening. So it has to be an exact match, you can't have extra travel in the ram?