heshhash
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Proctor, MN
im no expert, but i would assume play in a straight 6 crank would wreak havok in the entire engine.. then again, im no expert...
Oil leak again
- Thread starter Gnarlyrider27
- Start date
Gnarlyrider27
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Coarsegold CA
Ya I would assume that too. But I am running out of options at this point
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
If the crank is grooved you are SOL basically. Since the 4.0 has a flange and a 2 piece gasket there is no real way to get a speedi-sleeve onto the crank from the end, as the flange is much larger than the sealing surface. On something like a Subaru motor where the RMS presses in around the crank flange itself, you can get away with it if there is a sleeve available, but not in this case...
Try running thicker oil and see if it slows the leak.
Try running thicker oil and see if it slows the leak.
Gnarlyrider27
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Coarsegold CA
Ya I still need to pop the pan back off and see. Will prob work on it saturday or sunday. I am running 10W-40 first I put 10W-30 but even with the thicker oil leaks out the same.
Gnarlyrider27
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Coarsegold CA
Ok so I am hoping to put 20W-40 in it tomorrow and see what that does. I am also running a Microgard oil filter from O'Reilly's. I was looking at a site called Morris 4x4 because back when I had my 73 cj5 I bought all my parts from them but looking at the oil and it all Royal Purple. What would be a good oil to run and hopefully stop my leak or slow it down. I also dont want to spend top dollar on oil and it leak out. Also looking at O'reillys web site I seen some stop leak for engines. One was this one. Bar's Leaks Concentrated Rear Main Seal Repai. Says its 10 40 but I dont want to buy it and it mess something up.
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Gnarlyrider27
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Coarsegold CA
Ok so I put 20W-50 in and a bottle of blue devil rear main seal stop leak and no leaks now.
MAY POP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lake in the Hills Il.
Keep us informed as to how long it stays dry. I had an International truck years ago and it leaked a qt. every 150-200 miles. With straight 40 weight the leak slowed to almost 1 qt. every 1000 miles. So in a worn out engine oil weight does play a part.
Ron
Ron
Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
http://jeep-xj.info/HowtoRearMain.htm good writeup for the RMS.
Also, the oil pan gasket changed design. There use to be two little tabs at the rear that went into the block. Not you need to fill the cavities in the block with RTV before you install the gasket. There is also a steel strap that goes across the back of the pan where it meets the main cap. This held support the pan there.
A groove in the crank shaft or excessive crankshaft play could cause a problem. Put a dial indicator on the harmonic balancer bolt and pry the crankshaft forward and back and not the reading.
Lastly there is a oil galley plug at the rear of the block that could possibly leak. The transmission has to come off to access it.
Also, the oil pan gasket changed design. There use to be two little tabs at the rear that went into the block. Not you need to fill the cavities in the block with RTV before you install the gasket. There is also a steel strap that goes across the back of the pan where it meets the main cap. This held support the pan there.
A groove in the crank shaft or excessive crankshaft play could cause a problem. Put a dial indicator on the harmonic balancer bolt and pry the crankshaft forward and back and not the reading.
Lastly there is a oil galley plug at the rear of the block that could possibly leak. The transmission has to come off to access it.
Gnarlyrider27
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Coarsegold CA
It has a very small leak now so nothing to worry about. About the size of a dime in 2 hours so alot better then before. and that link is what I had followed when I first did the rear main.
Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
There may have been oil trapped in the bell housing from the previous leak that was dripping out. Sounds like a lot though. Or you just ran out of oil.
Gnarlyrider27
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Coarsegold CA
Idk I thought about that also but who knows. I still have oil. Still all 6q's
Ecomike
NAXJA# 2091
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
I had a 78 Dodge SW V-8 that wiped out about 6 torque converters in 4 years, and the last time it did it the engine was knocking real bad. Turned out the trust bearings in the engine had a 1/4" of play in them by then, close to 500,000 miles on the engine. The new Torque converters were keeping the engine crank shaft thrust wear from showing up till the engine starting knocking really bad. I thought the problem was bad TCs.
I was just reading your new thread. You have had a lot of problems with that jeep!
At this point I would check the CCV ventilation system very closely. Confirm the lay out using an FSM and the firewall label!!
Verify no coolant in the oil (causing steam and pressure that can push oil out the RMS).
Verify no stuck rings and blow by causing pressure in the crank case. I think it is called a Leak down test.
Check for gasoline in the oil, from a leaking injector, or a poor combustion cylinder, causing a build up of gas in the oil, thinning the oil, allowing it to leak easier.
On a steep hill climb it is more likely to leak!!!! A little pressure in the crankcase (water-steam, or gasoline, or BOTH!!!
) can make the leak huge!!!!I will comment on the other new problem in the new thread.
Gnarlyrider27
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Coarsegold CA
Ya I will have to check that out later when it cools down. For now I will rebuild my 78 chevys engine since its in the garage and is a little cooler. Dont want to be in the sun and in 100+ degrees.
Gnarlyrider27
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Coarsegold CA
Ok so Doesn't look like there is any coolant in my oil or gasoline in my oil. Is there anything else to cause pressure in the crankcase? I still need to do a leak down test but got to hot this morning to do one. One bad part about not having any trees in my yard lol. Also I just pulled my air filter and I have blowby. There is quite a bit of oil on it and coming from the CCV lines and I also have oil around the valve cap too.
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Ecomike
NAXJA# 2091
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
In that case it is either blow by, and / OR a blocked CCV line or CCV orifice in the rear valve cover to intake manifold line, the small line on older jeeps, just the orifice on newer jeeps. That line draws out the normal blow by air into the intake. If clogged, the blowby takes an alternate route out the crank seals and into the air filter box.
That also may be where some of the oil is going, the air filter box...
If you pull the valve cover and take an inch off the tube bottoms that drop down inside the cover (poor design aids in blowing oil out by burying the tube in oil), and remove the tubes and clean out the valve area, then reinstall them, that might need doing too! If you have a stuck piston ring issue, MMO, Marvel Mystery Oil is a great, safe, way to loosen them up.
There are some photo mod threads in older posts on
about the valve cover tubes inside the VC!!
Oil in the filter is a common problem caused by a clogged CCV line, orifice, and the defective OEM design of the tubes inside the valve cover (they are too long).
The orifice is sized to maintain the proper idle speed air flow bypassing the throttle body, and to suck out the blow by gases.
That also may be where some of the oil is going, the air filter box...
If you pull the valve cover and take an inch off the tube bottoms that drop down inside the cover (poor design aids in blowing oil out by burying the tube in oil), and remove the tubes and clean out the valve area, then reinstall them, that might need doing too! If you have a stuck piston ring issue, MMO, Marvel Mystery Oil is a great, safe, way to loosen them up.
There are some photo mod threads in older posts on
about the valve cover tubes inside the VC!!Oil in the filter is a common problem caused by a clogged CCV line, orifice, and the defective OEM design of the tubes inside the valve cover (they are too long).
The orifice is sized to maintain the proper idle speed air flow bypassing the throttle body, and to suck out the blow by gases.
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Gnarlyrider27
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Coarsegold CA
Well when I did the head gasket I didn't see any tubes on the the inside of the VC. I will check that line in a bit but last time I had it off it was dry but the PCV has oil in it
Ecomike
NAXJA# 2091
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
PCV?
The small line clogs easily. Even 1/16" of crud on the tube wall inside will cause sever issues!!! The front side is for fresh air incoming, the rear side is draw out the fresh air mixed with blow bygases, drawing them into the intake manifold. It is called a CCV, not PCV on jeeps, Crankcase Ventilation System.
NAPA sells the CCV tube, fitting, orifce kit assy, the entire package.
Here is a picture where you can see the tubes inside the VC.
The small line clogs easily. Even 1/16" of crud on the tube wall inside will cause sever issues!!! The front side is for fresh air incoming, the rear side is draw out the fresh air mixed with blow bygases, drawing them into the intake manifold. It is called a CCV, not PCV on jeeps, Crankcase Ventilation System.
NAPA sells the CCV tube, fitting, orifce kit assy, the entire package.
Here is a picture where you can see the tubes inside the VC.
Gnarlyrider27
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Coarsegold CA
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
Ecomike I don't think that is the problem... it appears you are missing two cylinders... might want to check on that.
- Location
- on the beach in Ocean View, VA
they're not missing-- that's the venerable 2.5L low output engine. It's the one that not only runs for 300,000 miles, but it runs for 250,000 miles longer than the owner wants it to.
