• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

O2 sensor won't budge.

Status
Not open for further replies.
Friend of mine across town has one, a 91 M42 E30 in Brilliant Rot / "arrest me red". And a 2 door 95 XJ in "arrest me red" that I convinced him to get. I had to do an IP check on this guy to make sure it wasn't my buddy messing with me a few days ago :laugh2:
 
"O2 sensor won't budge"

"Luke use the force"!!!!!

:cheers:
 
I wish I had the money to spare - I'd pay for kastein to drive down and make a video of himself changing the 02 sensor.
 
Reminds me of a sign I saw in a friends shop:

Shop Rate
$20/hr standard
$30/hr if you already tried to fix it
$40/hr if you want to watch
$60/hr if you want to help

:jester:
 
This thread needs a stake driven through its heart.
 
Do it if you think it needs it. I've been on the edge of doing so for quite a while but since I have been involved in the thread, decided I shouldn't be the one to do the deed.

I'm 99% sure the guy is a troll at this point (and he's just dug up another thread to troll in), so no point in it staying alive IMO.
 
Ecomike said:
Recommended reading for bimmer:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1077336&highlight=repair+hardest
Click to expand...

Eco, that's a great thread. It really drove home a major theme of this entire thread. If you're going to dare work on an XJ, don't even think about not owning these 5 professional mechanic tools: Air compressor, welder, angle grinder/dremel, bench vice, and various blowtorches. Without them, you're really not equipped to do this level of mechanics. It's better to learn that sooner than later. I had a bad feeling I was getting in over my head the day I bought the XJ, and it's only been confirmed with each project. Right from day one, even removing the battery cables was a project. The bolts were rusted solid, and I had to hammer off the posts. That was the warning sign to pick another car, or seriously overhaul my understanding of mechanic's tools. I was fooled by the internet lies of only needing a basic starter toolset.

For now, I do need to decide to either punt the XJ to someone who has the garage resources to work on it, or have my storage garage permanently wired for electricity, and acquire those 5 tools and training to use them. Either way, I have decided that I will not be doing anything more on this XJ without those 5 things added to my starter toolkit.

88trailcrawler made a great point. XJ's probably were realistic cars to learn on when they were newer, but a 14 year old XJ is going to be a different beast. Maybe I will look into an LK or JK, as you advised. I have no interest in modding, just basic maintenance, so the trick will be to find one that is new enough to be easy to work on, but old enough to need repairs. I am not going to bother working on a $20,000 Jeep that only has 20k miles on it, and is barely broken in.

For the rest of that thread, it's actually interesting to see someone admit it took 4-5 hours to replace the CPS. Most people seem to say it's 2 bolts and an extension bar, and it takes 10 mins on the side of the road. Others talk about removing tranny cross members, whatever that is. I don't know what the whole "dropping the bolt into the bell housing" means, but apparently, it's a nightmare that involves hand cranking the engine to get it out. That's all I need to know to never attempt that one.

Same guy also said exhaust manifold takes a full weekend. A refreshing change from people saying they've done it in on their lunch break in the Autozone parking lot. Heater core is the only one that is consistently represented as a real pain. If it takes forum braggarts to admit it takes 8 hours, I can't even imagine what it takes for a beginner. I bet 20 hours, at a minimum. Rear main seal also seems to get universal respect. Haven't seen anyone say you can do it in 20 mins. with a screwdriver. OFA o-rings got an honorable mention. That was actually doable if you can fabricate your tool. And that right there might really sum up the entire lesson here.

Anyway, I'm over this O2 sensor debacle. Thanks to the posters who offered constructive ideas and suggestions. There was a valuable lesson learned, and it's that is the first paragraph. This thread should be required reading for all beginners who get into the XJ game with just entry level tools. Then again, I guess they'll figure it out pretty quickly on their own.
 
Last edited:
joe_peters said:
This thread needs a stake driven through its heart.
Click to expand...

OMG, NOOOOO!!! I never had this much fun trying to talk an O2 sensor into changing itself!!!:laugh3:
 
bimmerjeeper said:
Eco, that's a great thread. It really drove home a major theme of this entire thread. If you're going to dare work on an XJ, don't even think about not owning these 5 professional mechanic tools: Air compressor, welder, angle grinder/dremel, bench vice, and various blowtorches. Without them, you're really not equipped to do this level of mechanics. It's better to learn that sooner than later. I had a bad feeling I was getting in over my head the day I bought the XJ, and it's only been confirmed with each project. Right from day one, even removing the battery cables was a project. The bolts were rusted solid, and I had to hammer off the posts. That was the warning sign to pick another car, or seriously overhaul my understanding of mechanic's tools.

For now, I do need to decide to either punt the XJ to someone who has the garage resources to work on it, or have my storage garage permanently wired for electricity, and acquire those 5 tools and training to use them. Either way, I have decided that I will not be doing anything more on this XJ without those 5 things added to my starter toolkit.

88trailcrawler made a great point. XJ's probably were realistic cars to learn on when they were newer, but a 14 year old XJ is going to be a different beast. Maybe I will look into an LK or JK, as you advised. I have no interest in modding, just basic maintenance, so the trick will be to find one that is new enough to be easy to work on, but old enough to need repairs. I am not going to bother working on a $20,000 Jeep that only has 20k miles on it, and is barely broken in.

For the rest of that thread, it's actually interesting to see someone admit it took 4-5 hours to replace the CPS. Most people seem to say it's 2 bolts and an extension bar, and it takes 10 mins on the side of the road. Others talk about removing tranny cross members, whatever that is. I don't know what the whole "dropping the bolt into the bell housing" means, but apparently, it's a nightmare that involves hand cranking the engine to get it out. That's all I need to know to never attempt that one.

Same guy also said exhaust manifold takes a full weekend. A refreshing change from people saying they've done it in on their lunch break in the Autozone parking lot.

Heater core is the only one that is consistently represented as a real pain. If it takes forum braggarts to admit it takes 8 hours, I can't even imagine what it takes for a beginner. I bet 20 hours, at a minimum. Rear main seal also seems to get an honest depiction. Haven't seen anyone say you can do it in 20 mins. with a screwdriver.

OFA o-rings got an honorable mention. That was actually doable if you can fabricate your tool. No blowtorches needed. Just an angle grinder.

Anyway, I'm done with this O2 sensor debacle. Thanks to the posters who offered constructive ideas and suggestions.
Click to expand...


CPS is hazardous if the cover plate is missing thanks to prior careless work, that makes it possible to drop the bolt in a place where it is PITA to get the bolt back out. If you have done a CPS 2 or 3 times it is about 10-15 mins to swap them out, blindfolded (it is a nearly a touchy fell sort of job, can't always eye ball what you are doing). The first time can take hours scratching your head wondering how to reach it with the least amount of effort before you start, unless you have a complete guide, youtube or write up.

Sounds like you have come to the right conclusions in your case. But I agree with others here, a rust bucket rig of any brand is a hard way to start learning mechanics for a newbie! Best of luck what ever you decide to do!
 
I am not lying in the snow to do a CPS replacement video for a troll. Nope :looney:

That being said, it is a 5-10 minute job unless you are clumsy or unlucky. 1 11mm socket, 1 3/8 ujoint, about 2-3 feet of 3/8 extensions, a 3/8 ratchet, a 10mm deep socket or 10mm box wrench. That's all you need.
 
kastein said:
I am not lying in the snow to do a CPS replacement video for a troll. Nope :looney:

That being said, it is a 5-10 minute job unless you are clumsy or unlucky. 1 11mm socket, 1 3/8 ujoint, about 2-3 feet of 3/8 extensions, a 3/8 ratchet, a 10mm deep socket or 10mm box wrench. That's all you need.
Click to expand...

Is that for the HO? Why three sockets?

Mine are all Renix and all I needed was 3 feet of extensions with wobbler ends, 3/8 ratchet, and one socket (10-11 mm, I forget which). Mine is not lifted so I spend most of the time jacking the rig up and down using a jack stand, lifting it about 4-6" because I am too fat :roflmao: to get under a stock XJ.

This Stanley rotator ratchet does make it faster! Best tool I ever bought!

http://www.righttoolusa.com/p/Stanl...1324672.html?gclid=CJCGoenn1LQCFQJx4AodsBcAbg

DJw8SphkcI.jpg
 
only two sockets or wrenches - the 10mm deep socket or 10mm box wrench is for undoing the nut that holds the cable clamp to the fuel injector supply rail mounting bolt. I am not sure if it is the same size or even present on a RENIX but it's important, if you don't clamp the cable where it's supposed to be clamped it can fall onto the #6 exhaust runner, which noticeably diminishes the CPS signal when it melts through the insulation.

The socket for the CPS bolts themselves is 11mm, that I remember for sure.
 
bimmerjeeper said:
. This is why XJ's are for experts only. All the Chilton reading in the world isn't going to make rusted bolt come out.
Click to expand...

So your saying if I was going to remove a rusted bolt, say from a swing set... I'm an expert? Damn I'm a pretty impressive then huh?

All in all, your just making excuses for your short comings. Just admit your dumb and incapable of making sensible decisions and save the xj some grief by giving it to someone else. At least they will have the balls and brains to get it up running right and make it enjoyable.
It's amazing how far your making excuses that everyone else is wrong and your right, remember when I said you can only blame everyone else so much before you realize it's been you all along. This should be that moment.
 
Last edited:
kastein said:
only two sockets or wrenches - the 10mm deep socket or 10mm box wrench is for undoing the nut that holds the cable clamp to the fuel injector supply rail mounting bolt. I am not sure if it is the same size or even present on a RENIX but it's important, if you don't clamp the cable where it's supposed to be clamped it can fall onto the #6 exhaust runner, which noticeably diminishes the CPS signal when it melts through the insulation.

The socket for the CPS bolts themselves is 11mm, that I remember for sure.
Click to expand...

I'd have to ask cruiser54 what was OEM stock on Renix for holding the wire cable to be sure. My 87 wagoneer has nothing, other than what I added to hold it and the O2 sensor wire cable out of harms way.

My 89, IIRC has a metal wire clip, no tools required that I recall to hold the cable. Lots of little minor differences we rarely talk about.
 
bimmerjeeper said:
Eco, that tool looks like one of those tools you need once a year, but when you need it, you'd be willing to pay $300 for it to end your misery. Do you remember the times you needed it?

Amazon sells it for $27 shipped. Walmart for $22.
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-89-962-8-Inch-Rotator-Ratchet/dp/B000HEKV1W
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Stanley-Rotator-Ratchet-3-8/14146071

I've also used a $5 thumb wheel ratchet for times where you don't need the torque of the 3/8" handle.
Click to expand...

You are right, there are many times it is worth its weight in gold. I use it almost all the time now to save time. There are so many tight spots and long bolts, it speeds up turning the nuts once they are loose. But in my case I don't have compressed air handy 99% of the time (something I may change this year). If I did have air I would use an air impact ratchet. I bought a set of thumb wheels but I almost never use them. I got the Stanleys at Walmart about 4 years ago. I have two of them now. I have more than one set of tools, but my jeeps still outnumber my tool sets, LOL.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

X
Renix O2 Relay Wiring
Replies
3
Views
97
90xj06
9
Flamintrash
95 XJ 4.0 AW4 o2 sensor placement on custom exhaust
Replies
4
Views
46
Flamintrash
Flamintrash
O
2000 XJ Failed Colorado Emissions high CO
2
Replies
27
Views
2K
Ken M
K
9
88 Cherokee slight misfire
Replies
0
Views
51
90xj06
9
L
Realistic MPG 4.0/AW4 33's with 4.56 gears
Replies
12
Views
670
Black_Black
B
Back
Top