NOT a budget buggy build

Paul S said:
You must have missed my mirror thread. Between that, my new stick shift knob, & a few other things I've been working on.....:D

Paul
i decided to lighten up my junk too, so far i have vacumed the dirt and metal shaveings out of the 1985 carpet and i even shaved a few pounds off the belly armor, i went to 1/2 inch plate instead of the 3/4 plate that was there!! the only thing is i added the roll cage to kind of counter the lost pounds i made the cage out of 1.5 inch extruded Hi Ni bar stock with 3/4"X6"X6" frame tie in's so i think i am fairly even again at 7500lbs ( thats dry, no fluids or tools ) but the boat side project is going well, i have the 7/8" plate ready for install on the sides, i dont want to get the usual rock damage so i went a little thick to be cautious.

i really think the rig will be ready by the nov JV runs and i will be giving you all a run for your money in the 7500 lb XJ tubular truggy!!:looser:

did i mention the axles i installed over the 3 day weekend, they were a gift from a friend, for the rear i have a GM corp 14bolt ff from a 1973 dually ( sp? ) and the front D60 from an E350 ford 1 and 1/4 ton cargo van ( military issue ) with spools front and rear ( trailer queen ) full width and trussed with 1/2 inch material from a 16 inch I beam ( top and bottom ):shhh:


sorry for the hijack.
 
steagall9301 said:
i decided to lighten up my junk too, so far i have vacumed the dirt and metal shaveings out of the 1985 carpet and i even shaved a few pounds off the belly armor, i went to 1/2 inch plate instead of the 3/4 plate that was there!! the only thing is i added the roll cage to kind of counter the lost pounds i made the cage out of 1.5 inch extruded Hi Ni bar stock with 3/4"X6"X6" frame tie in's so i think i am fairly even again at 7500lbs ( thats dry, no fluids or tools ) but the boat side project is going well, i have the 7/8" plate ready for install on the sides, i dont want to get the usual rock damage so i went a little thick to be cautious.

i really think the rig will be ready by the nov JV runs and i will be giving you all a run for your money in the 7500 lb XJ tubular truggy!!:looser:

did i mention the axles i installed over the 3 day weekend, they were a gift from a friend, for the rear i have a GM corp 14bolt ff from a 1973 dually ( sp? ) and the front D60 from an E350 ford 1 and 1/4 ton cargo van ( military issue ) with spools front and rear ( trailer queen ) full width and trussed with 1/2 inch material from a 16 inch I beam ( top and bottom ):shhh:


sorry for the hijack.

please tell me you are
troll.jpg
 
XJ_ranger said:
please tell me you are
troll.jpg
ask cracker if you dont believe me.
 
steagall9301 said:
ask cracker if you dont believe me.
ok, so the hair looks kind of familular but my eyes are blue :D
 
steagall9301 said:
i decided to lighten up my junk too, so far i have vacumed the dirt and metal shaveings out of the 1985 carpet and i even shaved a few pounds off the belly armor, i went to 1/2 inch plate instead of the 3/4 plate that was there!! the only thing is i added the roll cage to kind of counter the lost pounds i made the cage out of 1.5 inch extruded Hi Ni bar stock with 3/4"X6"X6" frame tie in's so i think i am fairly even again at 7500lbs ( thats dry, no fluids or tools ) but the boat side project is going well, i have the 7/8" plate ready for install on the sides, i dont want to get the usual rock damage so i went a little thick to be cautious.

i really think the rig will be ready by the nov JV runs and i will be giving you all a run for your money in the 7500 lb XJ tubular truggy!!:looser:

did i mention the axles i installed over the 3 day weekend, they were a gift from a friend, for the rear i have a GM corp 14bolt ff from a 1973 dually ( sp? ) and the front D60 from an E350 ford 1 and 1/4 ton cargo van ( military issue ) with spools front and rear ( trailer queen ) full width and trussed with 1/2 inch material from a 16 inch I beam ( top and bottom ):shhh:


sorry for the hijack.

:wow:Seriously?
 
Well, finally got a couple of days to work on the buggy. I'll try to post up some pics tonight. The cage is more complete, with the A pillar/top side bars in, plus a few misc other pieces. The rear axle is attached, with all the control arm mounts in and lower shock mounts. I twisted it up to check for clearance and it looks good so far. I need to make the rear panhard bar and mount, and I'm still trying to figure out the upper shock mounts.

On the upper shock mounts, I've figured a simple way to make the ride height adjustable by having adjustable upper mounts, but I'm trying to decide if it's worth it. My ride height target is 24" under the frame, but I could make it with 3-5" of adjustability. It would not be trail adjustable (no hydraulics or cables), but it could be set up differently for different trails, or easy to set it at the best ride height without adjusting the coilovers. Wondering if it's worth the effort............

I'm also on the verge of ditching the dash.........have to decide that soon so I can finish the cage around the A pillar and cowl.
 
Paul S said:
You must have missed my mirror thread. Between that, my new stick shift knob, & a few other things I've been working on.....:D

Paul

It appears that the ante has been upped on the WGCIC buggy gang. Since both Matt and I are going to show up at some point with front 60's, I hear that a few others are placing orders for various front D60 parts................
 
Lose the dahs, it feels so good to go right through the firewall with the cage!
 
Goatman said:
It appears that the ante has been upped on the WGCIC buggy gang. Since both Matt and I are going to show up at some point with front 60's, I hear that a few others are placing orders for various front D60 parts................

And 4ds ;)
 
CRASH said:
Lose the dahs, it feels so good to go right through the firewall with the cage!

That's happening even if I keep the dash. Looking at the difference between stripping out all the un-needed wires or just eliminating the dash all together and wiring switched anhd guages from scratch. Plus, if the dash comes out I have to figure something out with the steering column.
 
Goatman said:
That's happening even if I keep the dash. Looking at the difference between stripping out all the un-needed wires or just eliminating the dash all together and wiring switched anhd guages from scratch. Plus, if the dash comes out I have to figure something out with the steering column.

Just hacked my dash off last weekend. I say go for it.

Whats up with a panhard in the rear? not dual triangulating?
 
Goatman said:
That's happening even if I keep the dash. Looking at the difference between stripping out all the un-needed wires or just eliminating the dash all together and wiring switched anhd guages from scratch. Plus, if the dash comes out I have to figure something out with the steering column.


Don't need the OEM dash to keep the OEM steering column, it bolts to the firewall and a couple of reinforcements to the kick panel.
 
CRASH said:
Don't need the OEM dash to keep the OEM steering column, it bolts to the firewall and a couple of reinforcements to the kick panel.

Yeah, have to do that anyway, since the stuff the braces bolted to is gone. I was thinking about the column and wheel sticking out too far once the dash is gone. I guess it just depends on how I would configure the dash.
 
Goatman said:
I was thinking about the column and wheel sticking out too far once the dash is gone. I guess it just depends on how I would configure the dash.

This is why I decided against it. Just didn't see anyway to make it not look funky.

Paul
 
lugie said:
Just hacked my dash off last weekend. I say go for it.

Whats up with a panhard in the rear? not dual triangulating?

Nope....three link front and rear. The goal is to stay away from the need for a sway bar.
 
OK, here's a few pics of the progress.

A pillar/side roof bars are in.

standard.jpg

standard.jpg


rear of floor
standard.jpg
 
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