- Location
- Torrance, CA
Not so important with an MJ because of the long driveshaft. I'd wait until the doubler / new case / Klune / whatever is done so he's not buying a shaft twice.
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Newbie - Just got an MJ
- Thread starter Beamer
- Start date
Not so important with an MJ because of the long driveshaft. I'd wait until the doubler / new case / Klune / whatever is done so he's not buying a shaft twice.
Geoff's right. MJs don't need them as badly as XJs do. We'll consider that when we make the final 'lower gear' TC solution.
Beamer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pasadena, CA
33s going on tomorrow. :laugh3: Any clean fender trim advice or pics would be great. Perhaps keeping factory flares and moving them up.
Beamer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pasadena, CA
Ended up springing for the MT/Rs.
GrimmJeeper
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Gardena, CA
dunno if the MJ is similar in the back but I just did this on my XJ http://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=245112402 I folded the tabs back towards the inner part of the wheel well once the bolts were in, it didn't look perfect but it worked. they pulled away about an 1/8th inch up top once I did that. I have since removed them though, I just don't like the look of flares
in the front as long as you are careful with an angle grinder you can cut them off really clean looking.
- Location
- San Diego
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/greatest-fender-trimming-write-up-ever-1107237/
here is my writeup off of JF... it worked really well in the front.
I am still figuring out the rear.
here is my writeup off of JF... it worked really well in the front.
I am still figuring out the rear.
The MJ rear wheel well is larger than an XJ so it usually requiress less trimming. :thumbup:
Got some stuff today
Tomorrow we should have the wheels on.
Made some sway bar relocation brackets to get them away from the coils. Came out pretty good.
Far cheaper than the RE ones too
http://www.rubiconexpress.com/jeep/xj/Product.aspx?folder=XJSBD&part=RE9921
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Beamer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pasadena, CA
Excited to see her in new shoes! (tires go on tonight) :yelclap:
Maybe not :doh:
I think with the 3.73 gears we should smog it first thing in the morning with the stocker tires on.
We can put them on once we get back.
scottmcneal
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- not here
Good thinking..Good luck with the smog man, nice build too..
Beamer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pasadena, CA
I at least have to put two of them on tonight so i can see how it looks and if it will rub. I can take them off for the morning smog.
- Location
- Torrance, CA
Only total 'tards would run larger tires on the front and stockers on the back!
- Location
- La Habra, CA
Sounds like you speak from experience.
This, but it sure is nice to be able to pull the shaft after you bend/twist it and not have all the flui come out. Damned longbed I have the DS is like a rock magnet it's so long. I finally did it in at Harlan, it's all crushed/twisted now.
DO NOT CUT THE REAR WHEELWELLS MORE THAN 2"!!!!!!!
otherwise you'll cut the pinch seam that holds the outer bed skin to the inner one and the outer will flop around, unless you really want to make that intricate sheetmetal piece and weld it in there to fill the gap and put it right. With 33's and the estimated 6" or so of lift you'll have from the packs+spring over 8.8 I'd say bump stop it long and you'll likely not need to cut them.
This is what my junk looked like with cut fenderwells and 3" of lift with 34x95 TSLs
I cut mine up too far about 1/2" and had a loose bedside. Stay inside what I did and you should be good. The line I used for my grinder was the top angle where the sheetmetal blended back into the bedside where the flare mounted. Use the outer crease and it should stay together, or at least just need a few spot welds as the layers of the bedside all join right there in the wheel arch.
You can see that the front wheel wells were significantly smaller. This is what a TSL mounted on the front of it @ 3" looked like with uncut fenders.
I think with 33's you can get away with not cutting up the bed.
A 33 "should" fit. More so if you get rid of the funky MJ brake load sensing valve that's in the way.
Edit
Regarding the gearing, 3.73s and 31's was just about the same as factory gearing in mine with the 5 spd. The speedo was off less than 5%.
3.73's and 34's sucks the donkey balls for technical crawling, I stall it often in the hard stuff. 4.56's are happening for me soon.
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- Location
- La Habra, CA
Re: Newbie - Just got an MJy low.
I was able to get a well worn 33 under there, but it hung down pretty low. I took the tire winch out and now have my OBA tank in that spot.
I was able to get a well worn 33 under there, but it hung down pretty low. I took the tire winch out and now have my OBA tank in that spot.
