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Need some help with my steering

DirtyMJ

NAXJA Forum User
Mmm...


After much debate, I got annoyed and ordered hi-steer knuckles/arms for my D44. I had planned to run the grand wagoneer inverted T setup with it (it was a GW D44) but I can't seem to find one that is intact, don't want to buy one new, and figure it's probably not that great anyways. After all, it is a stock jeep part. That and I plan hydro-assist in the near future, making the cast tie-rod a poor candidate.


So, I figured I'd buy some other new parts and make myself a steering setup. (that works)


Now, I figured I'd use TRE's ES2233L, ES2234R, ES2027L and ES2026R, and use them in an inverted T setup. These are 1/2 or 3/4 ton TRE's. I am wondering if I should be at all concerned with using these in regards to strength? While they are not true '1-ton' steering parts as most of the aftermarket would like you to believe; should they be strong enough to hold up to the Hydro-assist/35s/spool/redneck driving?


I am also wondering what should really be done as far as the tubing for the steering. I was thinking I'd use something along the lines of 1.5x.80 (if I can get it...) DOM/HERW or like, as I feel it would be plenty strong (perhaps overkill? nah, that doesn't exist) and with a little bit of luck could be tapped with the 7/8-18 thread of the TRE's.


Although, I have to ask, who sells a 7/8-18 tap anyways? Definatly not a normal size. That and, what would really be the recommended tap drill for it? I ment to swing by the industrial supplier today...


Failing that, I'd have to buy tube inserts. Which I don't want to do, as I live in the boonies...


(Oh, and if you wonder why I want to use inverted T as opposed to crossover, it's because I was intending to use it when I bought the steering arms and thus they are not drilled for cross-over. I also don't want to cause too many issues with my steering ratio...)
 
DirtyMJ said:
I am also wondering what should really be done as far as the tubing for the steering. I was thinking I'd use something along the lines of 1.5x.80 (if I can get it...) DOM/HERW or like, as I feel it would be plenty strong (perhaps overkill? nah, that doesn't exist) and with a little bit of luck could be tapped with the 7/8-18 thread of the TRE's.


Although, I have to ask, who sells a 7/8-18 tap anyways? Definatly not a normal size. That and, what would really be the recommended tap drill for it? I ment to swing by the industrial supplier today...


Failing that, I'd have to buy tube inserts. Which I don't want to do, as I live in the boonies...

I would buy the inserts or find a machine shop to bore and cut your threads and make your jam nuts
both options are probably way cheaper than the tap'S, since you will need a left and right hand tap.
 
DirtyMJ said:
I figured I'd use TRE's ES2233L, ES2234R, ES2027L and ES2026R, I am wondering if I should be at all concerned with using these in regards to strength?

I am also wondering what should really be done as far as the tubing for the steering. I was thinking I'd use something along the lines of 1.5x.80 (if I can get it...) DOM/HERW or like, as I feel it would be plenty strong (perhaps overkill? nah, that doesn't exist) and with a little bit of luck could be tapped with the 7/8-18 thread of the TRE's.

Get 1.5in 250 wall DOM tubing and 7/8in weld on inserts, Check out www.ballisticfabrication.com
Jeff can hook you up.

Ive used those rod ends on 42s, spooled, with hydro assits and still run the Tie rod with full hydro. no failures.

your more likely to have a knuckle, stud failure on your high steer arm then a tierod end to fail. I will not run high steer on stock d60 knuckles, But 35s is just 35s. Ive seen many 38-39in tires kill d44 knuckles and steering studs. Get good studs. ARP sell good ones..
 
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