Need help guys finding the grounds for these lights

[winterbeater]

It is connected to one of the dark blue wires that you are going to cut (or already did. Like I said, you are going to eliminate it when you cut the next wire (or it is already eliminated by the wire you did cut.

 

[tugalo]

By cutting the wire, you have eliminated one of the light circuits, it could have been either front or rear. The things that are connected to your light switch thru the parking light fuse are the front and rear lights, the buzzer, and your clock. If the buzzer works and the clock works, the problem can only be in the headlight switch itself or the light circuit that you did not cut.

 

[SINCITY192]

oh so then i am about to eliminate it cause with one blue cut i still heard the buzzer when my door was open
what dud u think about the differences in the switch
the new switch I installed had a extra post for another wire but no wires goes there from the connector
I had my OEM compared it and that post is not on my OEM on they just dont have it there just a blank spot with a round metal circle

 

[winterbeater]

Not sure about the new switch with the extra post. Your lights worked good for a while after you replaced the switch, didn't they????????????

By the way, if your buzzer still works even though your fuse is blown, that buzzer is NOT on the parking lamps fuse circuit. That buzzer must be on some other circuit. It is not run through the park lamps fuse or it wouldn't be buzzing. Don't worry about the buzzer any more.

 

[SINCITY192]

lol.......
I finally stop the fuse from blowing cutting the second wire!
also i swapped the old switch back in cause i didnt like the extra post on the new one

 

[SINCITY192]

Ok i forgot some here guys when i was suppose to re-connect the blue wires i cut going into the switch, I forgot to plug the headlight harness connector back in
but i reconnected both blue wires with the old switch (instead of the new one with the extra post) and the fuse didn't blow

 

[Shorty]

are you saying that the wires are all connected again and the only thing changed is the switch??

 

[winterbeater]

So it sounds like the new switch is either bad, or not a proper replacement part for your vehicle. Do the lights work now? Why did you replace the switch anyway? Did the lights stop working at the same time as when you replaced the switch?

 

[88 Wagonman]

So it sounds like the new switch is either bad, or not a proper replacement part for your vehicle. Do the lights work now? Why did you replace the switch anyway? Did the lights stop working at the same time as when you replaced the switch?

He was having this problem THEN he replaced the switch:

listen guys so far i have change the headlight switch! made sure the ground was there and everything also that was hard to get up in there lol. but i replaced bulbs that were blown which was like one would a parking light socket from another year make things go bad like this! My parking lights worked when i first put that new socket in and a bulb for that socket which wasnt my regular 2057 bulbs. But once i started to notice all the problems starting to occur after i put the new socket in i took it out and put my old one back in! could the new one blew something without me knowing or something
i dont know just fishing....... I check the ground wire thats where the spare mounts behind the panel I see its still attached and everything doesnt seem to have any cut wires or anything so should i start ripping tape off the\at area checking wires or move to another ground area? what are the grounding areas for the tail/ parking lights?

This is from: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?p=244741012#post244741012

 

[SINCITY192]

please tell me whats going on The headlights work and the turn signal work the strongest i ever seen on the driver side Turn signal (its usually very dim) but my parkings Lights still dont work neither do my tail lights

 

[kennzz05]

well first of all i gotta say i commend you for all youve tried up to this point. You have alot of patience. I for one would be willing to kick in 20 bucks towards having a pro fix this for you so if anyone else is willing lets get this going.On another note, do you have a trailer wireing harness that might be pinched or smashed under the bumper createing a short? well anyways good luck and if anyones willing to contribute some dough towards helping you, perhaps we could paypal it to naxja and they could send it to you??? My email is [email protected]

oh and if you want to be scared of electricity be scared of the ac current in your house not the dc in your vehicle it wont shock you and only in extreme cases will it hurt you

 

[SINCITY192]

Well what a Jorney but after putting everything back together nothing works down to my headlights man........ this is so depressing I spent the whole day on this... the whole day...............

2 things
maybe the two butt connectors weren't good ideas
and while i while opening the passenger side door in the front..........I noticed sparks looks like something is rubbing where the rubber support is? Anyone Have any ideas......Im stumped no lights at all wow................

 

[orange]

?crossed wires?
?bad switch?

 

[winterbeater]

Well what a Jorney but after putting everything back together nothing works down to my headlights man........ this is so depressing I spent the whole day on this... the whole day...............

2 things
maybe the two butt connectors weren't good ideas
and while i while opening the passenger side door in the front..........I noticed sparks looks like something is rubbing where the rubber support is? Anyone Have any ideas......Im stumped no lights at all wow................

Look for bare wires where you saw the sparks and fix them. TAPE. Then check the fuses again. At least with the new switch, which is now out, you had headlights. Why did you put in the new switch a short time ago? What was wrong and did that fix anything then?

Electrical problems take a while to trace. That's why it costs so much to have done.

 

[SINCITY192]

Yeah I put the new switch in in hopes to fix the instrument cluster lights
today i picked up a OEM (right side parking lps socket) looks just like my right side
and also a head light socket for the drivers side because i broke mines ( i fear it may be a problem in future)

Only thing the new switch seem to do well show me that my indicator for my high beams are always on when the lights are on (but i thinks that due to the stalk in column)

Did i mention once i put the old switch back up where its suppose to be and turned on the lights I had no head lights either
I notice that left door switches feed into the HD Lt SW so yeah i tape up those connections and pull the switch back out the housing and see if i get any light than

 

[89xj]

high beams work by a rod in the stalk pressing the high beam switch. if the high beams are always on, the switch or rod may be jammed. i would fix this first. then move on to other problems. the high beams or head lights are on a different then the dash and tail lights though.

looks like the old headlight switch is bad if the head lights dont come on. when my 89 lost the head lights, it was from a burnt connection at the headlight switch.

 

[SINCITY192]

WELL Its looks like one electrical nightmare after another
today i put the OEM parking lamp socket on and I replaced the headlight connector driver side since i broke it.

after that i tried to stop a spot in the passenger door from sparking when a wire touches the door (where the wires are suppose to be in a black cover guiding them into the door) well a little insulation rubbed off so i put tape around it nice and tight, while in the door i noticed that a connector was disconnected for the passenger side switches on the door (to lock the doors/ open window but i cleaned the connections connected it and when i drove to get my kids
lights still weren't working, now my radio isn't working, head lights, parking lights, instrument cluster lights
I am so confused on whats going on its a shame

 

[SINCITY192]

OK i figured the radio problem out I mistakenly broke the power from the radio from fuse block while driving and didnt even realize it so Radio is working again
I pulled the headlight switch down where i could see it for testing
i tested the red/red & blue wire for 12 volts and it read 12. something
soon as i pull the headlight switch to the on position it blew the fuse again! I feel like I'm starting from square ..... why would this happen i cant check the blue wires now cause the fuse blows every time i put it in............ What a piece of shit...... at this point im ready to swap back in the New headlight switch but im running outta fuses!!!!!

whats next what do i do NOW!!!

 

[SINCITY192]

I put the new switch back in the fuse still blows the headlights arent coming on please help me

 

[Shorty]

at this point, I'm out of ideas that might help-- sometimes you've got to lose a battle to win the war. I'd say that a professional may be your best bet:

Abe's Auto Electric Inc


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