Not a bad idea Gordon. Hopefully ill never have to remove them again though.
Only problem with that is cost. I would rather try to source one locally or just buy another factory AX-15 bell housing online to keep the budget down.
My "Hero" Blog
- Thread starter Jeep450r
- Start date
Not a bad idea Gordon. Hopefully ill never have to remove them again though.
Only problem with that is cost. I would rather try to source one locally or just buy another factory AX-15 bell housing online to keep the budget down.
knucklehead 61
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cottage Grove, Oregon
It sure is, but something is definitely wrong that is causing this. I'm fairly confident that building new motor mounts and figuring out a good tcase mount will solve the problem.
With that said, I will still look into an aftermarket bellhousing to see what my options are. Thanks for the idea Tim!
- Location
- Antioch, CA
I have seen too long of a front driveshaft break transmissions and transfer cases. Allow the front suspension to go to full droop and see if the slip yoke on the front shaft is bottoming out. Something will have to give during a hard bottom out scenario. A short arm front suspension will use quite a bit if not all of the slip yoke travel as the suspension cycles from full compression to full droop.
Good call Bryan, I never even thought of that. I do know that my front driveshaft bottoms out at full droop when the whole car is in the air (in a lift). Id assume that it does at full drivers side droop too. Ill look into it.
- Location
- Patterson, Ca
With long arms, mine extends under droop? I guess short arms the amount of rearward travel is greater than the amount of downward travel?
Exactly.
I would assume that if your lower links are the same exact length as your driveshaft, then the driveshaft would neither extend nor collapse.
I'm assuming your arms are longer than your driveshaft.. So while drooping, your driveshaft travels in a shorter arc and consequently has to extend to stay connected with the axle.
I would assume that if your lower links are the same exact length as your driveshaft, then the driveshaft would neither extend nor collapse.
I'm assuming your arms are longer than your driveshaft.. So while drooping, your driveshaft travels in a shorter arc and consequently has to extend to stay connected with the axle.
Forceful Llama
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- MOdesto
goodwilljeeper
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pleasanton CA
Re: Re: My "Hero" Blog
Do you guys think this happens with a 3.5" lift as well? Just wondering. I would think not
Do you guys think this happens with a 3.5" lift as well? Just wondering. I would think not
- Location
- Sacramento, CA
Just saw this CL ad. idk if its the right bell housing or not though. If its the right one, I could pick it up and transport it to Dublin the week after Xmas
http://fresno.craigslist.org/pts/4190687068.html
http://fresno.craigslist.org/pts/4190687068.html
blondejoncherokee
NAXJA Member
- Location
- sacramento
I thought the 4 cylinders have the AX5 and not the ax15?
e
xternal slave bell housing ebay for 150$:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Wrangl...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cd86bf13d
115$:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-XJ-YJ-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item25853a8145&vxp=mtr
254$(brand new mopaer
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/mopar-ax-15-transmission-bell-housing-52107552.html
if you can use the AX5 bell housing, there are countless ones on ebay for 50$.
Also, the short arms when flexing down , and basically shoving the front shaft back into the t case make sense to hurt the t case, I have a hard time picturing it breaking multiple bell housings.
e
xternal slave bell housing ebay for 150$:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Wrangl...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cd86bf13d
115$:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-XJ-YJ-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item25853a8145&vxp=mtr
254$(brand new mopaer
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/mopar-ax-15-transmission-bell-housing-52107552.html
if you can use the AX5 bell housing, there are countless ones on ebay for 50$.
Also, the short arms when flexing down , and basically shoving the front shaft back into the t case make sense to hurt the t case, I have a hard time picturing it breaking multiple bell housings.
Last edited:
- Location
- Sacramento, CA
Yeh, thats what I was getting at, I'm not familiar with what years and engines each manual trans came with. I just read in the thread earlier that the ax-15 external slave started in 94 i believe.
AE Racer, Forceful Llama, and Jon. Thanks a bunch for keeping an eye out for me on craigslist and eBay. But I just found one local to Sacramento, and should have it within a few days.
I finally gathered all of the tools needed to get this bad boy dropped, and progress should continue on Friday!
I finally gathered all of the tools needed to get this bad boy dropped, and progress should continue on Friday!
Forceful Llama
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- MOdesto
No problem. Was cruising Craigslist for stuff already.
- Location
- Antioch, CA
Agreed, but something has to give. Whatever the weakest link is...
While I cannot say what is causing his problem for sure, everything is a possiblility until he finds out what the actual problem is.
- Location
- Virginia City, NV
I would flex it out and check the shaft compression. Might be barking up the wrong tree if its not the issue.
I swapped in some ironman4x4fab poly mounts. They were beefy as hell and hold the engine solid. I do notice a bit more vibration at idle but... Your jeep sounds like a John deer anyway.
My guess is your having some flex in the mounts and shearing hardware. I'd pull all the bell housing/block hardware and replace it with quality hardware this time around. Then do all three mounts with poly.
Hope you get it worked out kev. I know what it's like to keep having to fix the heep just to drive. I've replaced just about every part of the drive train in overnight emergency fixes to get to work the next day.
I swapped in some ironman4x4fab poly mounts. They were beefy as hell and hold the engine solid. I do notice a bit more vibration at idle but... Your jeep sounds like a John deer anyway.
My guess is your having some flex in the mounts and shearing hardware. I'd pull all the bell housing/block hardware and replace it with quality hardware this time around. Then do all three mounts with poly.
Hope you get it worked out kev. I know what it's like to keep having to fix the heep just to drive. I've replaced just about every part of the drive train in overnight emergency fixes to get to work the next day.
Thanks Gordon. Good call, ill go to the hardware store and match everything in grade 5 or 8.
I just dropped this bad boy all by my self!
Here's the crack.
The trans input shaft has a bit of up/down/side/side play. I'm assuming this is normal as there is no room for a bearing until the shaft hits the front of the transmission. Thoughts?
I'm still betting that my motor mounts are what caused the initial failure. Those will be replaced as soon as I can build them. I'll be using poly bushings from ruffstuff.
I just dropped this bad boy all by my self!
Here's the crack.
The trans input shaft has a bit of up/down/side/side play. I'm assuming this is normal as there is no room for a bearing until the shaft hits the front of the transmission. Thoughts?
I'm still betting that my motor mounts are what caused the initial failure. Those will be replaced as soon as I can build them. I'll be using poly bushings from ruffstuff.
- Location
- Virginia City, NV
Why are you building them? Browndogs are only 84$
- Location
- San Bruno, CA.
Yes, it's normal.
I can build a set of motor mounts for about a third of what the brown dogs cost. Plus, I enjoy building things myself. If I have an opportunity to build something from scratch, Ill likely build it myself rather than buy its equivalent off the shelf. Even if it costs the same lol. As long as I have the time, I'll build it. Especially something as simple as motor mounts. I could probably whip them together in an hour lol.
Jes, thanks. I won't worry about it then!
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