JCR anti-roll mod idea

Again, that is NOT JCR. you cant really compare it. But what spacers are you using?

i use the same tie rod ends as jcr, same diamter dom, and jcr offers their steering in an otk version, sure it didn't come with a sticker, but its the same steering design with the same parts.

im using no spacers, just the rubber boots
 
i use the same tie rod ends as jcr, same diamter dom, and jcr offers their steering in an otk version, sure it didn't come with a sticker, but its the same steering design with the same parts.

im using no spacers, just the rubber boots
Thats all fine and dandy,but the main reason your not having any issues is because of your lift height and the fact it is OTK!
 
What about using a full metal bushing i have a cutting bored spacer on my jeep now. Just wondering why no one is doing a metal spacer?

Cant do that, it needs to be able to roll some, its just that you want it to be stuff enough that it will turn the wheels instead of just flop like a wet noodle



Thats all fine and dandy,but the main reason your not having any issues is because of your lift height and the fact it is OTK!

agreed
 
One really expensive idea would be to get a Tera knuckle and ream out the holes, do they come with really small holes that you ream out to whatever size you want? If thats that case it wouldnt be that bad of an idea, but does it change the location of the TRE on the passenger side? Like does it make it higher up or would it be the same height as the drivers side?
 
One really expensive idea would be to get a Tera knuckle and ream out the holes, do they come with really small holes that you ream out to whatever size you want? If thats that case it wouldnt be that bad of an idea, but does it change the location of the TRE on the passenger side? Like does it make it higher up or would it be the same height as the drivers side?
I dont know where you got that idea?
http://www.teraflex.biz/products/teraflex/cherokee-xj-84-01/high-steer-knuckle.html
 
Well for the cupped washers what about using those washers that the shock bushings sit in for the stud?

Upper shocks' washers in the front of the XJ if you will..

end link bushings also come with cupped washers and be bought cheap in most auto parts stores that sell the red poly end links kits(bolt, sleeve, red poly bushings, and cupped washers)
 
At my pretty significant lift height i may go with the tera knuckle if my steering is to flexed out, it doesnt seem like it really lifts it high enough
 
It is still on the same plane, therefore only 2 dimensional travel is necessary. What changes at 0, 90 and 180 degrees of caster? NOT A DAMN THING.


I'm not really wanting to get in the middle of your golden showers fellas, but they are right Mr Burbon. Take a look at this pic. It's easy to see with a full hydro setup. Notice the difference in angles between the 2 small tierods. As one knuckle turns out it also rotates up. As the other knuckle turns in it rotates down....

resume043.jpg
 
Yeah guess that's the case considering that caster is set at an angle, thus not 0 degrees...


Absolutely 100% incorrect. That would be because of camber not caster.

The camber looks like this /---\ only at very slight angles.

Single plane of movement only occurs if both knuckles have 0 degrees camber like this |---|.

I said many posts ago that he camber had to have parallel axis. It clearly does not, therefore the ball joint or a heim joint of some kind is mandated and my original idea about a roller bearing would not work.

You guys didn't notice that I was being a bit facetious and maybe egging you on a bit when I called Vetteboy Mr Ackerman?:wave1:

I apologize for trolling, I should have let on a little more obviously that I knew I was wrong.
 
Absolutely 100% incorrect. That would be because of camber not caster.

The camber looks like this /---\ only at very slight angles.

Single plane of movement only occurs if both knuckles have 0 degrees camber like this |---|.

I said many posts ago that he camber had to have parallel axis. It clearly does not, therefore the ball joint or a heim joint of some kind is mandated and my original idea about a roller bearing would not work.

You guys didn't notice that I was being a bit facetious and maybe egging you on a bit when I called Vetteboy Mr Ackerman?:wave1:

I apologize for trolling, I should have let on a little more obviously that I knew I was wrong.
I am far from an expert, but the picture Matt posted shows how CASTER changed the location of the tierod, not the CAMBER.



At lest thats how Im looking at it.
 
You're dumb. :banghead:



Not only can you not spell, you are recommending swapping in a D44 to fix a rotating TRE?


........rub a little D44 on anything, PROBLEM SOLVED!

Here's what Currie's did to solve the rolling issue on their HD Draglink, however they fell short in not making the end a replacable unit......but it sells more draglinks that way, I guess.

100e4802.jpg



The research assignment is......find a TRE with the Jeep taper AND a slotted socket as pictured.........anyone?
 
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