Iron rock offroad long arm upgrade

it's called a revolutionary caster adjuster because it likes to revolve while you are wheeling hasta
 
4 link with a panhard, aka 5 link? Also arms are so short you end up with huge angle changes during suspension travel, resulting in significant changes in caster and pinion angle. Works fine at stock height, not so much when lifted. The arms are stamped sheetmetal junk. I'd much rather run any aftermarket arm than the stock crap.
 
4 link with a panhard, aka 5 link? Also arms are so short you end up with huge angle changes during suspension travel, resulting in significant changes in caster and pinion angle. Works fine at stock height, not so much when lifted. The arms are stamped sheetmetal junk. I'd much rather run any aftermarket arm than the stock crap.
In this industry, no one counts the panhard as a link.


So your radius arm 3link clusterfluff sees small changes in caster when the suspension moves throughout its travel?
 
4 link with a panhard, aka 5 link? Also arms are so short you end up with huge angle changes during suspension travel, resulting in significant changes in caster and pinion angle. Works fine at stock height, not so much when lifted. The arms are stamped sheetmetal junk. I'd much rather run any aftermarket arm than the stock crap.
you have no idea how much abuse those sheetmetal arms can stand up to.

I blew up 3 uppers (2 bent, one broke in half) and only mildly kinked a single lower in 3 years of abusive wheeling on 33s, including stuffing the frontend into a ledge so hard I dented the rims and a few runs that involved installing brand new shocks before leaving and warrantying them when I got home because they were bent and the bushing eyes had torn off.

I always carried spares and expected to use them, but never needed spare lowers... ended up replacing them with aftermarket ones because the bushings wore out.

I'd rather run stock control arms than IRO "longarms" that are actually radius arms with a built-in weak point I've seen fail. Sucks for the ZJ/WJ guys though because apparently the IROs are about the best priced kit out there for them...
 
4 link with a panhard, aka 5 link? Also arms are so short you end up with huge angle changes during suspension travel, resulting in significant changes in caster and pinion angle. Works fine at stock height, not so much when lifted. The arms are stamped sheetmetal junk. I'd much rather run any aftermarket arm than the stock crap.

You sir, are a 'tard
 
Goofy 5 link short arm junk FTW.

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This is actual short arms with stock uppers and 4" lift, thinking my shocks being 8" travel and stock steering limit me some
Just picked up these 33's Saturday so I was out flexing to see what was needed to be trimmed.
D4BB9087-D5D0-4F54-B92A-AB7D93ED3FF9-6124-000002E0B00D6160.jpg

B6AF3A37-5543-40E7-B85B-F51F3F1E891E-6124-000002E0B46F34C6.jpg
 
This is actual short arms with stock uppers and 4" lift, thinking my shocks being 8" travel and stock steering limit me some
Just picked up these 33's Saturday so I was out flexing to see what was needed to be trimmed.
D4BB9087-D5D0-4F54-B92A-AB7D93ED3FF9-6124-000002E0B00D6160.jpg

B6AF3A37-5543-40E7-B85B-F51F3F1E891E-6124-000002E0B46F34C6.jpg

That's cute..

Iron rock long arms:
77CF9B15-D555-434D-9693-A6FD09753954-451-0000004428DE999A.jpg
 
Can i ask, why does it bother you what way someone spends their money?

If they have a 99% success rate, Why not leave it Alone..? IRO's rear Long arm Kit for the ZJ was not as Desirable as the Triangulated Claytons kit, so instead of Trashing IRO, I simply went with Claytons.. But guess what? I was then Shown a Bad Review of a Claytons Kit (wow.. No way!)

Who gives a Chit? I'd run an IRO kit on a Budget built XJ in a heart beat.. Because i've made MY own review of the kit watching it work flawlessly for 4 years now.. Does that mean i think Another brand is Garbage? Or that IRO is "Better" ???

You guys Act like a bunch of Liberals....


People ask for the forum's opinion, i.e. the original point of this thread.

We are trying to give out good advice, like "I understand how suspensions work and I think the IRO kit looks sketchy. You are potentially putting your front pinion, driveshaft, trackbar, shocks, steering, etc in jeopardy if you run the kit and either of the two known weak points fail."

If they buy it after reading alllllll the threads on this forum and others about the kit, then so be it. Good luck.



If I'm going with a 'budget' setup, I'd rather replace worn joints every once in a while (or just throw in some quality joints from another company) than worry every time I wheel if that caster adjuster is going to stay where it's supposed to.
 
If I'm going with a 'budget' setup, I'd rather replace worn joints every once in a while (or just throw in some quality joints from another company) than worry every time I wheel if that caster adjuster is going to stay where it's supposed to.

Are you for real?

How about this rig..
EF6AEA3D-4049-4F50-9896-8F3C37D9CC1E-693-000000DCA529775A.jpg


IRO long arm. 4 years old. Daily driven 3 of those years. Probably 5k pure trail miles.

Please, enlighten me on his "luck". :dunno:
 
Like said, you don't have to be a mechanical engineer to realize that there is an obvious weak link in this system. What some people see as "acceptable" others see as a ticking time bomb. Myself and many others arent ok with "good enough" We want confidence that our front end is going to stay in one piece and get us home. If that bolt goes, other front end components go out with it.

You can't really believe this kit will survive for everyone under hard wheeling do you? Why doesn't everyone else build 3 links with 10mm bolts then? Its not like the failures are a myth we all made up.


(And of course this thread would turn into a flex contest lol)
 
Like said, you don't have to be a mechanical engineer to realize that there is an obvious weak link in this system. What some people see as "acceptable" others see as a ticking time bomb. Myself and many others arent ok with "good enough" We want confidence that our front end is going to stay in one piece and get us home. If that bolt goes, other front end components go out with it.

You can't really believe this kit will survive for everyone under hard wheeling do you? Why doesn't everyone else build 3 links with 10mm bolts then? Its not like the failures are a myth we all made up.


(And of course this thread would turn into a flex contest lol)


Have you ever seen one fail?
Like really seen one?

I jump my jeep (like really, all 4 tires come off the ground)

Still have not replaced so much as a bushing....

Factory is a 10mm bolt and the upper is made from a soda can... Come one really? A soda can

I see Pepsi printed on my uppers when I took them off.. But a 10mm bolt is going to fail.

I've see TONs of uppers crush like pop cans... Never seen the bolt fail.
 
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