Iron rock offroad long arm upgrade

Please let this guy talk to folks who own it and used it.Let him make up his mind.Why shit all over his thread over and over&over&over&over&over.Gets old reading it doesn't it.

Now go work or use your XJ/MJ's if you still own one.
 
Because it works. And the Iro kit sketches me out.

Dude you've made 122 posts... What are you some kind of jeep expert?

My question is this, how do you sheer a 10.9 bolt with a 10,000 lbs sheer strength and 150,000 lb tensile strength?

Also, out of the billions of bolts sold, why can't 1 of them fail?
I was torquing a stock LCA bolt on my brothers 2000 wrangler to spec and It ripped in half, no rust or corrosion what so ever, explain how 135 ft lbs ripped a 3/4" bolt clean apart when it's sheer strength is almost 40,000 lbs, and tensile strength of 150,000...
 
I think the problem is why go with this kit that advertises itself as a "3 link" when in fact its not even close.... Either go with a radius arm or a true 3 link. The 10mm bolt is a KNOWN weakness in the stock xj setup.... what makes anyone think that removing one upper arm and leaving just one upper bolt in place is strong enough? its already weak with two uppers... and yes I have witnessed those 10mm upper bolts fail, it doesn't take that much.

A much larger bolt is used in all real 3 links. For the money your going to spend on this kit just go with a quality long arm setup. I run RK 3 link and have no problems... it also uses a massive upper bolt (5/8ths if I remember correctly) compared to a IRO 10mm bolt. A half assed radius arm/make believe 3 link just wasn't an option for my jeep that gets wheeled and driven daily at the time. There are a lot more reputable long arm kits out there, don't settle for an inferior design.
 
I think the problem is why go with this kit that advertises itself as a "3 link" when in fact its not even close.... Either go with a radius arm or a true 3 link. The 10mm bolt is a KNOWN weakness in the stock xj setup.... what makes anyone think that removing one upper arm and leaving just one upper bolt in place is strong enough? its already weak with two uppers... and yes I have witnessed those 10mm upper bolts fail, it doesn't take that much.

A much larger bolt is used in all real 3 links. For the money your going to spend on this kit just go with a quality long arm setup. I run RK 3 link and have no problems... it also uses a massive upper bolt (5/8ths if I remember correctly) compared to a IRO 10mm bolt. A half assed radius arm/make believe 3 link just wasn't an option for my jeep that gets wheeled and driven daily at the time. There are a lot more reputable long arm kits out there, don't settle for an inferior design.

Pretty much, you don't have to be any sort of mechanical engineer to figure out that this kit lacks in a pretty important area.

You also don't need to run it to figure that out either, hence why I offered my opinions on it. If you don't like what I have to say about the kit you run, then ignore my posts.
 
I think the problem is why go with this kit that advertises itself as a "3 link" when in fact its not even close.... Either go with a radius arm or a true 3 link. The 10mm bolt is a KNOWN weakness in the stock xj setup.... what makes anyone think that removing one upper arm and leaving just one upper bolt in place is strong enough? its already weak with two uppers... and yes I have witnessed those 10mm upper bolts fail, it doesn't take that much.

A much larger bolt is used in all real 3 links. For the money your going to spend on this kit just go with a quality long arm setup. I run RK 3 link and have no problems... it also uses a massive upper bolt (5/8ths if I remember correctly) compared to a IRO 10mm bolt. A half assed radius arm/make believe 3 link just wasn't an option for my jeep that gets wheeled and driven daily at the time. There are a lot more reputable long arm kits out there, don't settle for an inferior design.

I'm not sure you can fit a 5/8 bolt threw the top bushing on a Dana 30 axle
 
I'm not sure you can fit a 5/8 bolt threw the top bushing on a Dana 30 axle

clayton uses a truss that you weld to your housing, which allows you to eliminate the stock mount altogether and run a 9/16" bolt. (pictured at the bottom right of the image)
3501020-W.jpg


I know the older rock krawler 3 links required you to press out the oem bushing in favor of a ball in socket type joint. Not sure what the newer setup is like. This ran a 9/16" bolt.
images.ashx
 
I'm not sure you can fit a 5/8 bolt threw the top bushing on a Dana 30 axle

That's kind of the point. My stock bushings were shot just running a 3" lift with stock arms. Now you have all the stress of preventing axle movement going through one stock bushing and a tiny bolt.

My 3-link uses a passenger side upper, but ditches all the factory upper mounts. Aftermarket 3/16" bracket holding a big johnny joint and using 9/16" bolts, same as the stock LCA bolts.

Sorry man, but there is a reason IRO is the only one selling that kind of kit and everyone makes either a 3-link, 4-link or radius arms. Its cool that they designed something new, but its definitely not ideal.


Sorry if you can't accept the truth.


!!!1
 
Accept what truth ? That no one can put proof of a ten mm bolt braking on this kit ? I've been looking and can't find but two things on this kit fail. And both were the caster bending not a broken bolt
qydy3e8e.jpg
.
ryqyqe3u.jpg
. 10mm bolt looks to be 100% intact
 
Question for those that have this kit,why did you buy this over every other LA kit?

Ive heard the cons of the kit so whats the pros of it over other kits?

So the only pro so far is its cheap to buy?

From what I gather it does nothing better then any other kit and by design has to be weaker then the other kits. But its cheap which is supposed to make up for it.
 
So the only pro so far is its cheap to buy?

From what I gather it does nothing better then any other kit and by design has to be weaker then the other kits. But its cheap which is supposed to make up for it.

Can i ask, why does it bother you what way someone spends their money?

If they have a 99% success rate, Why not leave it Alone..? IRO's rear Long arm Kit for the ZJ was not as Desirable as the Triangulated Claytons kit, so instead of Trashing IRO, I simply went with Claytons.. But guess what? I was then Shown a Bad Review of a Claytons Kit (wow.. No way!)

Who gives a Chit? I'd run an IRO kit on a Budget built XJ in a heart beat.. Because i've made MY own review of the kit watching it work flawlessly for 4 years now.. Does that mean i think Another brand is Garbage? Or that IRO is "Better" ???

You guys Act like a bunch of Liberals....
 
The factory short arm is not a true 4 link, and any long arm radius arm is an upgrade in both suspension travel and ride quality.
Wait, its not?

WTF do you call it then? Its a 4 link with panhard, aka 4 link....




:dunno:


Dude you've made 122 posts... What are you some kind of jeep expert?
Ahhh, the MaxxxxXJ to the rescue with logic.


Posts on the internets=knowledge of how things work.





Derp de derp!
 
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