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Iron Rock Long Arm Upgrade

sunburned said:
lol that thread doesn't have any tech, it's just you saying how much better your crossmember is than IRO. :eyes:


I'll still stick with my Poly 3-link...
Click to expand...

Well it started with me saying the crossmember design lacked intelligence (can't say stupid it offends sensitive people here). Then some dude called me out, which I though was funny. And I said what would be better.

I agree a 3 link is much better and I will be going to one eventually. But I'll make mine.
 
Porch951 said:
I'd rather have 3 bolts in something with welds that actually penetrated, sorry.
Click to expand...

You are some kind of superhero to be able to xray through a computer screen and paint. Amazing. 4 years hard wheeling and no broken welds.

So in this thread we have the radius arm nazis and the weld nazis. Who are we missing, oh yeah the Catalytic converter nazis (good thing mine is shown in the pics I'd hate to be the brunt to that onslaught) and also the don't turn up your CB nazis.
 
Missing the dana 35 nazis too.

I've see some really gross looking welds that were good and solid and some real pretty welds that failed easily. None of my welds have broken yet though, and I've tested them thoroughly.

radius arms = wheel hop = tires get repetitively forced into the ground for better traction! :dunce:
 
hadfield4wd said:
You are some kind of superhero to be able to xray through a computer screen and paint. Amazing. 4 years hard wheeling and no broken welds.
Click to expand...

A design is only as good as the final product. Lots of people can't weld worth a shit, and i'm not amazing either--but you wouldn't catch me ragging on someone else's design when mine was held together with popsicle sticks and bubble gum.

I don't need x-ray vision to see that your welds didn't penetrate fully. I'm sure it will hold up for another million years or more, but that doesn't put you in a position to be critiquing others' work.
 
The caster adjuster will bend before the bolt breaks. Its a shitty design, i have it and dislike it, for the "revolutionary" way to adjust caster.

I bent the caster adjuster, and IRO wants me to pay for a new one...heres their warranty:

All products manufactured by Iron Rock Off Road, Inc. are guaranteed to be free of defects in materials and workmanship for as long as you own the product. If your product ever fails due to a defect in materials or workmanship we will replace it free of charge, excluding shipping and handling. This warranty does not apply to corrosion, finish, or normal wear. This warranty is non-transferable. Misuse, modification in any way, or any use other than the product’s designed purpose will void the warranty. Iron Rock Off Road control arms come with a lifetime unbendable guarantee. If you bend or break a control arm on or off road, we will replace it. Products not manufactured by Iron Rock Off Road, Inc. will be subject to the product manufacturer's warranty. Claims must be made to that manufacturer. Custom parts are non-returnable, non-refundable.



anyway, heres the pic of the caster adjuster:

casteradjuster-1.jpg
 
Wonder what Iron Rock has to say about failure rates with their long arm suspension? They claim their kit has the best clearance of any commercially available long arm suspension (see the first page of this thread). Then took a moment and looked at the T&T Customs Y-Link several mentioned here (using XJDB) and it appears their radius arm suspension has better clearance than the IRO.
 
HoneyBadger said:
Wonder what Iron Rock has to say about failure rates with their long arm suspension? They claim their kit has the best clearance of any commercially available long arm suspension (see the first page of this thread). Then took a moment and looked at the T&T Customs Y-Link several mentioned here (using XJDB) and it appears their radius arm suspension has better clearance than the IRO.
Click to expand...

yea. its a buncha garbage to make noobs feel like they are getting a bargain.

i also like thier "almost alloy" kit. they say it works on any dana30 or 44 with spicer 760's.

i guess they have no experience with a dana44 because there is absolutely no room for anything other than the shafts and u joints to slide into the knuckle
 
I really like there products i have a 5.5 inch la and love it. will i ever order again...no... they always give you the run around. that being said i went from re 5.5 with drop brackets to the iro la and love it the one bolt thing scares me but im sure somehow you could modify that y link for a heim and toss a bigger bolt in it.
 
I like my IRO trackbar. I'm not sold on that adjuster thing either but a buddy down the road has an IRO kit on his WJ and seems to really like it. That said, he hasn't had the opportunity to actually wheel it so I haven't a clue on how it will hold up.
 
I am about to sell their X member... i wish they had incorporated a skid into it and the dang thing is kinda hard to bolt together

also i had a ton of powder coating in the threads of the control arm welded nuts for heims.... overall though very solid and well built X member but it will not work with my custom LA set up... If one were to choose to the X member does have a lot of holes so bolting up or even welding to the X member for a belly skid or t case skid would be easy
 
I have the 5.5" IRO LA kit. Ill be coming up on a year of having it installed in the next couple months. The kit flexes well and rides very nice. My biggest complaints about it are as follows:

Was missing numerous washers and a couple bolts when I received it(I never bothered to complain I just replaced them at the local hardware store)

Wrong rear shocks were sent. IRO sent me the correct ones.

Rear leafs were sagging 1" after 6 months. Now after 10 months of the kit on my car they are sagging almost 2". I do no towing or heavy hauling so needless to say I am not happy about the leafs.

Track bar bushings were shot at 7 months and I ordered replacements.

I have not noticed any bending or deformation in the caster adjustment. It is a retarded design I will admit(meaning it is a pain in the ass to adjust compared to other setups). The cross member is still solid and I have had no problems with the bolts coming loose or stripping out. I put 10k miles on my Jeep a year and wheel it whenever I get the chance.
 
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