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Iron Rock Long Arm Upgrade

I wonder how many Ford Pintos Ford built? :rolleyes:

Doesn't mean I'll drive one.
 
Nuts!! Installed my upgrade kit July 1st. Love It!! The ride is awesome. I did have to trim the old CA mounts . Wheeled Fordyce Creek July 4th From the bottom to 1st water crossing No problems what so ever. Drive Line was a cake walk with 32s and open diffs. Going to try and run the Rubicon later this summer. So far I am a happy camper . I will let you know if anything breaks down the trail . I have couple pics posted on my cardomain.

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1868/3221/29669110138_large.jpg

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1868/3221/29669110139_large.jpg
 
i've had my cross member in and out to do a drivetrain change, removal was easy and so was the reinstall. it was nice being able to leave all the suspension in place with the removable center. i got high centered on it trying to climb a waterfall yesterday and only scraped the powdercoat. i also like the adjustable height on it, once i finish my rear driveline i'll raise it up to the highest position.
 
I have their long arm kit on my xj and love it. You cant beat it for the price. If running the single y link becomes a problem it will be quick and easy to fab up a short pass arm to connect to the lower. So far zero issues.
 
Talyn said:
Except its a metric bolt which would be a class 8.8, 10.9, or 12.9, which are different from grades.
Click to expand...

I love how no one recognized this post. I knew someone was going to say it before me. Those specific bolts are 8.8 fyi.


I've been running the IRO long arm for about 6 months now. Nothing but complements here.

that's with 4.5" IRO springs and 3" lift RC shocks; don't know the stroke length. This is supposedly the lowest you can be and still use the kit. I scored these adjustable ones new off CL for $500

DSC00654.jpg

IronrockOffroadLongArm-45inLift005.jpg

Ironman45inLiftInstall013.jpg
 
I hope you cut off those stock LCA brackets.


Oh, and is the only thing holding the entire crossmember/suspension to the frame the 3 stock TC case holes on each side? That's kinda scary.
 
Rather than drilling out for a 7/16" bolt, why not get a class 12.9 10mm bolt? Tensile strength of a grade 8 bolt is 90,000 psi and a 12.9 10mm is 86,000. Increasing flex and decreasing binding seems like a win win to me. As far as TNT radius arms flexing better, that is simply not possible, radius arms bind. Doesn't matter who made them, how they made them, or how much they cost. Remove the passenger side upper on the trail (so you don't die when the 1 bolt everyone talks about failing breaks at speed) and wheel it. Now give an honest opinion about flex and ride quality.
 
zachandandy said:
Rather than drilling out for a 7/16" bolt, why not get a class 12.9 10mm bolt? Tensile strength of a grade 8 bolt is 90,000 psi and a 12.9 10mm is 86,000. Increasing flex and decreasing binding seems like a win win to me. As far as TNT radius arms flexing better, that is simply not possible, radius arms bind. Doesn't matter who made them, how they made them, or how much they cost. Remove the passenger side upper on the trail (so you don't die when the 1 bolt everyone talks about failing breaks at speed) and wheel it. Now give an honest opinion about flex and ride quality.
Click to expand...


ever see a radius arm setep bind enough to the point where that was the limiting factor in flex? more often than not its the shocks (or if they are smart, limit straps) that limit it.

on paper,yea they bind more, but i would take strength over a couple extra inches of useless flex regardless
 
Last edited:
ktm racer 419 said:
ever see a radius arm setep bind enough to the point where that was the limiting factor in flex? more often than not its the shocks (or if they are smart, limit straps) that limit it.

on paper,yea they bind more, but i would take strength over a couple extra inches of useless flex regardless
Click to expand...
The bind in a radius arm setup occurs when one wheel is down and the other up. The joints on some of them run out of flex and start to bind.
 
jeeperjohn said:
The bind in a radius arm setup occurs when one wheel is down and the other up. The joints on some of them run out of flex and start to bind.
Click to expand...

i'm not tarded'

the bushings that are used more than make up for the bind
 
jeeperjohn said:
The bind in a radius arm setup occurs when one wheel is down and the other up. The joints on some of them run out of flex and start to bind.
Click to expand...

To Sam's (ktmracer) point:

n41902041_30917659_2202.jpg


My shocks limited me here on TNT long arms. Those are 33s with 12" travel Bilstein 5150s.

Could have gone plenty more than that even though they were "binding".
 
sunburned said:
I hope you cut off those stock LCA brackets. Oh, and is the only thing holding the entire crossmember/suspension to the frame the 3 stock TC case holes on each side? That's kinda scary.
Click to expand...

yup, they're gone; they were way too close for comfort. Your second comment is the only thing that worries me, although I haven't had a problem in over 8 months of daily driving and weekend trail riding. I'm waiting until I have time to install some TNT frame stiffeners and I plan to add on some higher connection points through the frame stiffeners for that cross member. I'll pair that with my SYE setup and raise the transmission mount back up. I haven't seen any deformation to my caster adjustment bracket.

RE20inbraidedlines020.jpg
 
My y link is limited by shocks, not bind.

I think... If IRO used the current crossmember, but used a bent, high clearance y link setup with 2 upper arm like the tnt kit, they'd have a winner.
 
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