METAL MONKEY
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- severance, co
I'm going to be purchasing new tires and wheels in the next couple of weeks. I'm currently on 31s, and I thought I was going to go to the next logical step, 33s, but 35" KM2s are actually $5 cheaper. So, with that in mind, ideally what is needed to run 35s. I'm in Colorado, so my time is in the rocks and not the mud. I'm light on the skinny pedal, but will get on it if needed.
Current setup:
-4" of lift - Haven't cut the rear fenders but plan on it. Willing to go to 5"
max.
-4.88
-arb f/r
-4340 alloys w/ 760x joints and full circle clips in the d30
-toyota 8.4 in the rear (30 spline shafts)
-stock steering
-steering box brace
While we're on the subject, anything I should do to run 33s reliably should I decide not to go to 35s
Also on a side note, would 3.25 bs be too little for a 12.50 tire? Correct if I'm wrong, but 3.75 - 4 bs is ideal with a 8" - 10" wide rim. And is there any real downside to going to a 16" wheel with advancements in tire technology.
Thanks
Current setup:
-4" of lift - Haven't cut the rear fenders but plan on it. Willing to go to 5"
max.
-4.88
-arb f/r
-4340 alloys w/ 760x joints and full circle clips in the d30
-toyota 8.4 in the rear (30 spline shafts)
-stock steering
-steering box brace
While we're on the subject, anything I should do to run 33s reliably should I decide not to go to 35s
Also on a side note, would 3.25 bs be too little for a 12.50 tire? Correct if I'm wrong, but 3.75 - 4 bs is ideal with a 8" - 10" wide rim. And is there any real downside to going to a 16" wheel with advancements in tire technology.
Thanks
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