help installing my stroker?

is there any way to get to the top E12 bolts without having to drop the crossmember? i have the tnt pan and itd be a pain to drop the pan and cut some of the tac welds i put on the front of the pan.

also i was just reading JPFreak and they took the torque converter off with the motor. is that wrong?

finally, you said reverse torx, by that do you mean its the "female" version of the torx sets. or that to loosen them its reverse so it has to come out clockwise?
 
Try taking the shifter bezel out of the interior. Slide in an extension and you might be able to get it from there...either way you'll probably have to angle the transmission down via droppinng the crossmember.
 
finally, you said reverse torx, by that do you mean its the "female" version of the torx sets. or that to loosen them its reverse so it has to come out clockwise?
He means the female version. They are righty tight, lefty loosed threaded. Think of a t12 torxs as a pee pee & the e12 torx as a vag.
 
He means the female version. They are righty tight, lefty loosed threaded. Think of a t12 torxs as a pee pee & the e12 torx as a vag.


haha, very well put. i have a e12 then. im hoping i can get to the bolts without dropping the tranny.

is it just the four bolts and the bellhousing bolts and the two motor mount bolts + all the other accesories and the engine is free?
 
haha, very well put. i have a e12 then. im hoping i can get to the bolts without dropping the tranny.

is it just the four bolts and the bellhousing bolts and the two motor mount bolts + all the other accesories and the engine is free?
You will need to unbolt exhaust, all engine sensors, leave the engine harness on the jeep. Tyler is right about moving the radiator, condenser out of the way. It will just make life alot easier. Leave the torque convertor with the transmission, again makes install easier. Pm myself, Collin, or Tyler if you have any questions.
 
i will for sure. tomorrow is the last full day i have to work on this thing. 4th of july is the busiest weekend for us. so i will be putting in 55+ hours in the next 3-4 days.

how hard is it to remove the radiator? i already removed the fan, the water pump, thermostat housing, alternator, powersteering pump, etc. so i have some room to move forward if i have to. i have all the electricals removed, and have two more exhaust bolts to take off. otherwise i have to get to the timing chain still and the last two upper bolts on the bellhousing
 
how hard is it to remove the radiator? i already removed the fan, the water pump, thermostat housing, alternator, powersteering pump, etc. so i have some room to move forward if i have to. i have all the electricals removed, and have two more exhaust bolts to take off. otherwise i have to get to the timing chain still and the last two upper bolts on the bellhousing
PM sent, as it is against forum rules to post up FSM stuff. Good luck.
 
thanks bob. that will help a bunch!

i guess i will be dropping my belly pan tomorrow. i feel like im starting to get in over my head now, but im not gonna give up yet lol
 
New PM sent , A LONG ONE, print it out and follow all the steps.
 
thanks bob. that will help a bunch!

i guess i will be dropping my belly pan tomorrow. i feel like im starting to get in over my head now, but im not gonna give up yet lol

Dude don't give up yet you just started! :D
 
has anyone heard of this method for getting to the top two e12s?

1) put engine on engine hoist
2) remove the motor mount bush and brackets completely.
3) slowy lower the engine just enough to slide the e12 socket and 3/8" drive ratchet onto the bolts.
4) remove the bolts (of course before all of this unbolt the torque converter from the motor)
5) pull engine out and up
 
havent heard of that method, but it might work...? I can tell you that if you dont get squarely on those E12 that it will round them off and you will be be up cheese creek with out chips....
 
I just drop the crossmember with xfer and trans attached, block the front of the motor, and use a long extension.

Rev
Talked to mim last night on the phone. The crossmember is tack welded in, as is mine, so that's why he does not want to drop it.
 
well tonight after work i got the dust shield off the tranny, and the four torque converter bolts off as well. im hoping this method works cuz if all goes as planned im gonna try it tomorrow morning before i have to go into work. the one thing im not sure about is the down pipe. the bolts are pretty rusted off. can i just slide the headers around the down pipe just enough to get the headers to slide down a couple inches?

secondly, how do i remove the oil pressure sending unit?

thanks for everyones help so far

-Brendan
 
IT'S OUT!!!!!!!!!!!! FINALLY!!!!!

but now i gotta put it back together. thats a project for next week though.

thanks for everything guys!
 
has anyone heard of this method for getting to the top two e12s?

1) put engine on engine hoist
2) remove the motor mount bush and brackets completely.
3) slowy lower the engine just enough to slide the e12 socket and 3/8" drive ratchet onto the bolts.
4) remove the bolts (of course before all of this unbolt the torque converter from the motor)
5) pull engine out and up


That's basically how I bolted everything back up. I would have done it that way if I would have realized I could do that when I was pulling the motor. Putting it back in that way was much easier. I still had to use about 4' of extensions and go from back by the transfer case. But with the motor lowered like that you can have a buddy line the socket up for you.


Parakeet
 
That's basically how I bolted everything back up. I would have done it that way if I would have realized I could do that when I was pulling the motor. Putting it back in that way was much easier. I still had to use about 4' of extensions and go from back by the transfer case. But with the motor lowered like that you can have a buddy line the socket up for you.


Parakeet


i had to remove the engine side brackets for the motor mounts to have enough room. then i could drop it far enough to get at the e12s from the top of the motor. once i broke them loose, it was a matter of turning them out by hand
 
Once it goes back together I had to get some long bolts to help suck everything together. I'm drawing a blank on how to explain this but there are 2 bolts that mount the tranny and motor together. I got 2 bolts that were the same size just a couple inches longer and onceI got the trans and the motor close enough, I used the long bolts to suck everything close enough to get the other bolts started.


Parakeet
 
Well brendan my Mom isn't coming to town next weekend like we thought so I might be able to get over there next weekend and help ya out.
 
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