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Headlight data thread

When I got my heep a few years ago, I first went with some ipf h4 housings, and some cheapo xenon bulbs due to budget. Much better than stock even without a harness. Still have the xenon bulbs as they have not died yet, and some time ago I installed the lmc truck harness. Even more of a difference.
Not sure which bulbs I will swap in. But not really wanting to spend big money.
 
lazyxj said:
Not too bad a price
http://www.amazon.com/HELLA-HLA-H83140171-Halogen-Bulb-Road/dp/B000COBLKW
Click to expand...


This x2. It's what I run. Even if you don't want the higher wattage, Hella bulbs in general are good quality, and they won't break the bank. They make bulbs for pretty much every lighting application, and most are on Amazon. I used to just go to www.rallylights.com to look up which bulb I wanted (they listed wattage and lumens) but it looks like their site has changed and now I can't find the tables that used to be there.

Edit: Looks like they still list wattages/output/bulb life once you click on a product line, its just layed out slightly different now. FWIW, those 100/80W bubls are 2900 lumen, 100 HR avg. life. Stock 60/55W are 1650 lumen, 175 HR avg. life for reference.
 
Last edited:
lazyxj said:
Not too bad a price
http://www.amazon.com/HELLA-HLA-H83140171-Halogen-Bulb-Road/dp/B000COBLKW
Click to expand...

donthelegend said:
This x2. It's what I run. Even if you don't want the higher wattage, Hella bulbs in general are good quality, and they won't break the bank. They make bulbs for pretty much every lighting application, and most are on Amazon. I used to just go to www.rallylights.com to look up which bulb I wanted (they listed wattage and lumens) but it looks like their site has changed and now I can't find the tables that used to be there.

Edit: Looks like they still list wattages/output/bulb life once you click on a product line, its just layed out slightly different now. FWIW, those 100/80W bubls are 2900 lumen, 100 HR avg. life. Stock 60/55W are 1650 lumen, 175 HR avg. life for reference.
Click to expand...

Good to know, I know that inexpensive choices are out there, jsut have not really looked around. I have those saved to my wish list on amazon for when the time comes. May just buy some before Moab and keep mine as spares.

Edit: Just saw these.
http://www.amazon.com/Generic-LED-1...UTF8&qid=1377101565&sr=1-10&keywords=h4+bulbs
Wonder how bright they are?
 
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Great thread, nice idea breaking down the different headlight upgrade options by price point.

I just ordered the Daniel Stern relay kit, hope it improves my low beam performance. I'm running the Autopal E-code housings and while better than standard sealed beams, there is a lot of room for improvement. I exchanged many emails with Daniel Stern and he had some not too kind words about the Autopals (said they were junk/garbage/etc)... I'm sure the Cibies are much better but it's kind of hard to justify $160 on headlight housings. If I'm still not satisfied after installing the new harness I'll have to decide whether to try the Nighthawk headlights or some 70/65W bulbs in my Autopals. Personally I don't think the Autopals are quite as bad as DS says, IME they're still better than a lot of OEM headlights on similar-vintage vehicles.

I have had 3-4 sets of Silverstars on two other vehicles and my experience with them is that while they are definately better than basic bulbs, they burn out really quick. Should have installed an upgraded wiring harness first and just stuck with standard bulbs, probably would have made more of an improvement.
 
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I like my Cibies. I've had IPFs, drove a Jeep with Hellas, drove vehicles with HID, and have some other e-codes in my ZJ. I still favor the Cibies over the others. The Cibies have a much better cutoff and a more uniform light throw. I also prefer the lower kelvin/more yellow light the halogen bulb puts out as it increases contrast and reduces eye fatigue over HIDs.

I'd be interested in trying LEDs if I knew they provided more lumens than the halogens, but i would still be concerned about the kelvins. LEDs go have an advantage in life, vibration resistance and power draw.
 
Red91Laredo said:
Great thread, nice idea breaking down the different headlight upgrade options by price point.

I just ordered the Daniel Stern relay kit, hope it improves my low beam performance. I'm running the Autopal E-code housings and while better than standard sealed beams, there is a lot of room for improvement. I exchanged many emails with Daniel Stern and he had some not too kind words about the Autopals (said they were junk/garbage/etc)... I'm sure the Cibies are much better but it's kind of hard to justify $160 on headlight housings. If I'm still not satisfied after installing the new harness I'll have to decide whether to try the Nighthawk headlights or some 70/65W bulbs in my Autopals. Personally I don't think the Autopals are quite as bad as DS says, IME they're still better than a lot of OEM headlights on similar-vintage vehicles.

You will be tickled pink after the harness installation.

I have had 3-4 sets of Silverstars on two other vehicles and my experience with them is that while they are definately better than basic bulbs, they burn out really quick. Should have installed an upgraded wiring harness first and just stuck with standard bulbs, probably would have made more of an improvement.
Click to expand...
 
Red91Laredo said:
I just ordered the Daniel Stern relay kit, hope it improves my low beam performance.
I have had 3-4 sets of Silverstars on two other vehicles and my experience with them is that while they are definitely better than basic bulbs, they burn out really quick.
Click to expand...

Silverstars burn out quickly with the stock wiring, even quicker with the upgrading harness. Higher voltage, higher filament temps, more light and a shorter life.
 
How do the silverstars stack up against the ge nighthawk. I'm looking to upgrade harness and find the best oem style replacement. But I don't want to be replacing lights every month like I did with the silverstars. (A lot of driving at the time)
 
The pitch I got on nighthawk bulbs was more on pattern than brightness. Shouldn't burn out early.
 
Has anyone tried these ? It was only a matter of time until somebody built an LED H4 bulb with real output. Olympus Offroad is selling "Zeus LED Headlights", 1200-1600 lumens low beam (depends on bulb type I guess) and 1800 high beam. Not as much as truck lite on high beam but under 1/3 the price (if you already have H4 housings, anyway)
I don't want to spend 120 bucks on headlights just now but, damn, pretty cool.
 
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As I think about it - the bulbs have the added benefit that if you smash a housing, it's just a housing. Smash a truck-lite, it's $200.
 
Do Cibie, IPF or Hella H4 e-code housings. Upgrade your harness (preferred Daniel stern), LMC truck is only 16Gauge. Then go with a Narva or good quality bulb. P43T 48901 (100/90). Supplement them with a good pair of LED offroad lights. (rigid). Be happy. Easy to carry spare bulbs on the trail.
 
Let us discuss wire gauge. Here is a nice calculator to use: http://www.solar-wind.co.uk/cable-sizing-DC-cables.html .

IMO, wire sized greater than required is money wasted. A 100 Watt bulb will require 100A/14ADc = 7.14 Amps of continuous current, plus inrush.

Using the calculator, providing it with 14 volts, 7.1 Amps, a run length of one meter and specifying a 1% run loss factor gives a wire size of 14 AWG. At 5% loss, 21 AWG.

Why 14 volts? That is the actual operating voltage, not 12. Well, it is if the alternator is working properly...
 
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