GM 5.3/4L60E/Klune/Stak 300

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

The '96 Geo Metro AC compressor fit well. This is pretty much the same compressor that many aftermarket companies sell for $250 new. It fit well where I needed it to fit and I was able to fab a pretty slick method to mount it.

These shots shows the outputs the upper mount and proximity to the motor mount:

Here's the lower mount tacked into position:

Bottom clearance:

Frame clearance:

I finish welded up one of the motor mounts last night as well. I added some reinforcement. I need to press the bushing in and throw some paint on it.

Jeff

 

[Root Moose]

Impressive per usual.

Any inclination to add some gussetting to the compressor mount? The upper mount to my eye is calling out for a piece of steel running along the skinny bit beside the two bolts to the adjustable part. That's just me though.

Diggin' the motor mount.

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

I was going to add some steel there and even had that skinny part wider, but found out that once lines are on and the compressor gets tilted up to get the belt on (35 3/8" from NAPA) that area gets tight. It seems pretty solid as is, so I think I'm going to leave it. If I were to build the mount again I would use 1/4" material on the lower mount too as there is some flex in that plate when prying the belt tight, but I think it's ok as is too. It's pretty tight to get the belt on as the compressor hits the front most bolt head when swung all the way up and 1/4" plate would only make things tighter. Jeff

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

I got both engine side motor mounts welded up and the bushings in.

Passengers side:

Drivers side

Jeff

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

Frame side mounts built and clamped in place.

Sitting out of the engine bay:

Passengers side from bottom rear:

Drivers side from bottom rear:

Drivers side from top front:

Drivers side from front:

Passengers side from front:

Showing how engine is tilted back some compared to the frame rail:

I need to install four sleeves through the frame per side and make these bolt on. Yeah, I'm slow, but I've got other things going on in my life too. Jeff

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

I marked the four holes on the inside of the frame rail and drilled four 3/4" holes.

I then devised a method to transfer the holes perpendicular to the motor mount plate to the outer frame rail. I took 1/2" threaded rod, chucked it in a lathe at the local high school and drilled out the center with a 1/4" bit. I then chucked up a piece of 1/2" rod with four nuts threaded on it and shaved the nuts down to 3/4" in diameter. I then assembled the drill guides with nuts on the motor mount, held it in place and drilled 1/4" holes through to the other side of the frame.

I reamed the holes out a bit for weld penetration, cut four sleeves of equal length, assembled them to the motor mounts with bolts, held the assembly in position and tacked the sleeves in place.

Jeff

 

[Root Moose]

Nice methodology. :thumbup:

 

[Timmy2XJS]

this build makes me all warm and fuzzy.

 

[Goatman]

Nicely done, Jeff.

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

The other day I opened up the holes behind the nut for a little more clearance between the bolt/nut and the engine mounted piece. I then covered both pieces in paint calling them done. However, I was wondering what you all thought about the strength of the frame side of the mounts? Enough? Should I box in the top some? Should I weld in a tube partway out from the frame? Jeff

BTW, I've been working on my camper ('01 Palomino Maverick 8.8) that slides into my '03 Dodge 2500. I built a floor riser/stiffener and added air bags and a trailer brake controller to the truck. Today I weighed the truck/camper combo and it came out to 9240! The GVWR of the truck is 8800. Hmm. I was going to tow a trailer to Moab with a Jeep on it...not mine! I guess I'm going to be overdoing it huh?

 

[Root Moose]

I'd probably box the top a little. Looks like a good stress riser where the sides meet the frame plate. the motion of the engine in the mounts will want to make that tear away.

That said, I tend to overbuild and make things heavy so take what I say with a grain of salt.

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

So, I spent a small fortune on driving my pickup with camper and towing a friends TJ on a car hauling trailer to go to Moab and what do I see when I get there? John Bjorum's LS1 XJ that he built and FINISHED while I'm still frogging around with my lowly 5.3! He DROVE it TO and FROM Moab from Michigan!

I'm doing some things different and perhaps better, but he started with a Camaro motor and made it work. He's using the Camaro front accessory setup, a stock steering box, home made engine mounts bolted to the stock frame, and heavily modified stock Camaro exhaust manifolds. He told me that he cut the flange off the manifolds and welded extension pipes on to the cast manifolds! The clearance is very tight with the frame, but it works. He did an exhaust crossover UNDER the tranny pan. Man I've got to get going on my project! Jeff

 

[shortxjdoug]

don't know that i could make a d30 last with an ls motor under the hood... hell i barely make a d44 last with a 4.0 :explosion

 

[Root Moose]

Interesting the way he did it but I think yours will be slicker.

That's a weird way to truss the Dana 30. It'll work I guess but it does look odd. I'd be concerned with the loads being concentrated at the diff housing to tube interface. Bah, wtf do I know?

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

That's not a truss. It's a guard for the steering ram above it I believe. However, I was simply impressed with the ENGINE install. Jeff

 

[BIGSLVRXJ]

That's not a truss. It's a guard for the steering ram above it I believe. However, I was simply impressed with the ENGINE install. Jeff

That is a very nice install on the LS1. He definitely kept everything clean, I can't see all details but it looks like he did an overall great job.

 

[FarmerMatt]

Wow, I haven't seen John for awhile. That looks like a killer rig. Yours will be fine Jeff & I wouldn't worry a bit about your motor mounts. Looks killer.

 

[Root Moose]

That's not a truss. It's a guard for the steering ram above it I believe.

Shit, didn't even notice the ram.

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

I've been working on the exhaust a little and tacked together a crossover tube from the drivers side exhaust trying to keep it tight to the block. I plan to install a flange where it is tacked in position so I'll keep the manifolds separate from the crossover/tube that combines with the other side. Do you think a two bolt flange with gasket is ok in this application or does it need to be three bolt with a donut and springs or what?

Tucks up close to the pan yet still has a little clearance.

Here it is installed and sitting on the motor mounts I made. Do you think there will be enough clearance for a long single upper suspension arm, the axle housing, and a driveshaft at full stuff?

The small line visible above the primer paint is where the stock coil center sat. Looks like the axle might need to be forward a little from stock to clear the exhaust/oil pan. I guess we'll see when I slip the axle in there and nudge it around. BTW, the engine mounts slipped in place easily and look like they'll work excellent.

Jeff

 

[whitneyj]

I wish I had half of your attention to detail and fabbing skills. Great looking work.