GM 5.3/4L60E/Klune/Stak 300

[Sponge Bob]

looks great but i prefer the ball socket kind of joint to keep it sealed. Header collector gaskets seam to always blow out unless you get the copper ones! Do you plan on wrapping the cross over with it being so close to the pan?

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

I didn't want to mess with wrapping the exhaust, but I'm sure it would be a good idea. As for collector joint, do you mean a three bolt affair with a donut gasket and spring loaded bolts or something different? I wanted to keep the physical size of the joint small for clearance issues so ordered this style joint. I don't have to use it though. Actually, I was going to put a slip joint between the pipe in front of the oil pan and the next pipe, but thought removing the exhaust manifold with the engine in place might not be possible with that setup. I thought a collector joint might be better for serviceability. If I use the joint I have in there I was thinking I could weld the flange to the upper side, then cut the pipe off 3/16" or so beyond the edge of the flange so it would nest into the flange on the other side when bolted together lessening the need for the gasket to hold in the exhaust gasses as they would be directed past the gasket by the short piece of pipe extending past the flange. Anybody else got some thoughts on this? Jeff

 

[Root Moose]

What about fabbing up a heat shield for the section directly under the pan? Maybe get some larger diameter tube, cut a 180 degree section the length of the straight bit under the pan, weld on a couple of stand-offs or legs to keep it spaced from the exhaust tube itself.

JAT

Btw, looks great.

 

[Sponge Bob]

they have 2 bolt ball and socket flanges at pepboys that i use for my muffler so that the exhaust can flex if it encounters a obstacle or so i can replace it with out having to cut it out after being mangled by a rock. No springs like the OEM just nut and bolt. I like the metal heat shield idea..

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

I finally moved to the other end of this project for a bit. I attempted to install the Klune/Stak Replace a Case t-case. It didn't fit with where I had the tranny height wise, so I got out a hammer and began beating on the floor. In the end I really didn't move it that much, but I think it's enough and the combo slips in place nicely now! The tranny pan and the t-case sit just above the bottom of the frame rails.

I don't know how I'm going to fit shifters, an upper link mount, a driveshaft, a crossmember, tranny/t-case mounts, etc in this space though! I loosely mocked the front axle in place and it looks like it will hit my exhaust crossover and the upper link and perhaps driveshaft might hit the floor at full stuff. Lots of details to work out yet!

I also don't have a HD rear output yet but I do have a caliper/rotor/flanged output yoke and holding them in the approximate position yields some close quarters! I think it will work with the caliper mounted on the bottom though.

Jeff

 

[Sponge Bob]

WOW!!! that had to be a big BFH. I just cut the floor then welded in a new cover for my klune atlas combo.

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

I really didn't massage the floor that much. It's only raised 1/2" or so above the surrounding metal. I got most of the metal stretch using a small ball peen hammer working it all over the region needing the stretch. I did use a bigger mall some too, but got most of the movement using the ball peen. Remember, this Stak 300 case is significantly smaller than an atlas. I really didn't know if I should cut/pound or just pound, so I tried pounding first and found it was all I needed. I did kind of want to make enough room for an atlas just in case, but since I don't have one of those on hand I guess I'll just be happy making the Stak 300 fit. Jeff

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

I've been working on a crossmember and have come up with a plan. Please critique. 2x4x3/16 box tube run frame to frame under the Klune and level with the bottom of the frame rails. Then, in the center of the box tube I plan to sink a boxed section in that will have four ears sticking up between which the rubber bushings will mount (stock XJ lower control arm bushings.) The bushings will press into metal sleeves which will be welded to a cradle setup that will attach to either end of the Klune. I've attached a cross section drawing. The bushings will be around 7" apart compared to the same bushings mounting the engine at the block an unknown number of inches apart (perhaps around 16 or 17 inches apart?)

Jeff

 

[Sponge Bob]

how are you going to attach it ti the klune?

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

Between the Klune and the Stak 300 is a 1/4" thick mounting plate that used to have a right angle foot. I plan to cut the foot off and cut the plate to match the shape of the cradle. Then, weld pieces of 3" strap to that mounting plate. The other end of the Klune bolts to an aluminum adapter from Advance Adapters. It also has a mounting foot, but it hangs low and is kind of in the way. I plan to cut it to match the cradle shape as well and either drill and tap some holes in it or make some tabs that wrap around and catch two or three of the Klune mounting studs.

In addition to the depressed center portion for the tranny mount I plan to weld a flat plate coming off the crossmember that will extent up past the Klune and eventually bolt to an upper suspension arm mount that will be welded to a tube inside the cab crossing from one rocker panel to the other over and through the tranny hump. This tube will be welded solidly on either end and welded to the floor where it passes through the tranny hump. Jeff

 

[JeepFreak21]

In addition to the depressed center portion for the tranny mount I plan to weld a flat plate coming off the crossmember that will extent up past the Klune and eventually bolt to an upper suspension arm mount that will be welded to a tube inside the cab crossing from one rocker panel to the other over and through the tranny hump. This tube will be welded solidly on either end and welded to the floor where it passes through the tranny hump. Jeff

Hmmm... Where abouts would this go (in relation to the XJ body)?
Billy

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

The tube to which I refer should pass from rocker to rocker in front of the seat. In fact, I had figured I would attach the seat to this tube although now that I didn't need to modify the floor as much as I had thought I might just reuse the stock seat mounting studs. I wanted the upper link mount to stay on the rig when the crossmember was removed to help stabilize the front suspension. If I kept the upper link mount only coming off the crossmember one would have to remove the whole front suspension just to drop the crossmember. In my plan, I could probably leave the track bar and upper link in place and only drop the lower control arms in the case of needing to remove the crossmember. I think this would keep the front suspension much more intact than the other scenario. As for installing and removing the upper link frame bolt, I believe I'm going to make a notched area in the floor pan where the bolt will be installed and removed from inside the cab.

What I was really wondering though is what you all thought of using those rubber bushings spaced out that distance and if you thought it might control torque as well as allow enough movement to prevent stress to other components like the tranny housing etc. Rough measurements of the engine mounts look to be about 15" apart and the tranny mounts would be about 7" apart. Jeff

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

Well, since nobody replied that my idea was bad, I started implementing it! Here is half of the Advance Adapters 4L60E tail housing adapter:

Here I cut the large mounting foot off!

I cut the corners as well and cut the Klune mounting plate to match.

From the transfer case end:

From the transmission end:

Building the cradle:

The plan is to bolt the adapter back to it's other half, bolt up the Klune minus the two bottom studs, slip the cradle in place, reinstall the two studs through the cradle, then bolt up the transfer case.

More to come. Jeff

 

[Sponge Bob]

wow a little overkill! but hey it will give plenty of room for better placement of your crossmember. :cheers:

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

Here's the cradle cleaned up:

Here it is installed with all studs, nuts, and bolts in place and tightened. It worked out just as I had envisioned although I needed to use slightly shorter studs through the cradle since they wouldn't fit in there after it was bolted up to the other half of the adapter. I also had to remove the two bottom bolts of the other half of the adapter to slip the studs in.

Like Sponge Bob said, plenty of room to slip the crossmember anywhere along the underside of the cradle now and have structure to attach the rubber mounts to! Jeff

 

[JeepFreak21]

Love the innovation! Thanks for the update!
Billy

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

Part of building the crossmember involves locating the front axle where it needs to go. So, I played with it a bit and have some concerns. This is a HP D44 front with Dana 60 ends. I purchased some Ballistic Fab high steer arms and loosely put the steering knuckles together on the axle, set it around 4" forward from stock and pushed it up till something hit. It turns out the tie rod hits the frame, harmonic balancer and AC pulley all at about the same time. I measured approximately 9.5" between the frame and the top of the axle tube. Comparing this to a FAQ post of 7.5" as stock and a desired lift of around 7" says at ride height I should have about 14.5" for this measurement. Subtracting 9.5" at full stuff leaves 5" for compression. That's not good enough in my book since I've got 14" coil overs to install. Also, Richard tells me he has 14.5" at ride height with 7" up travel and 5" down travel which works out to 7.5" at full stuff compared to my 9.5". Paul Sinclair tells me he has 14.25" at ride height with 5.5" up travel and 6.5" down travel which works out to 8.75 at full stuff (keeping .5" from the oil pan with his hydro ram.) So, what do I do? I was thinking I could put the tie rod UNDER the high steer arms for more up travel, but then it will be more in harms way. However, the high steer setup on the D60 knuckles does put it awfully high. Anyway, here are a few pics of my mocked up setup for you all to stew on. Jeff

 

[XJ_ranger]

flip it under...

FWIW - I only have ~5.25" of up travel at ride height as well... and it works just fine for crawling...

 

[Sponge Bob]

I think the axle needs to go forward more and notch the frame for the tie rods.
i will try to get pics of the steering on the Tj with the same motor and high steer. I think we are like 1.5 in front of the harmonic with the tie rod from steering box to pass side highsteer arm. 5.5 lift on tj. i know it's not apples to apples but just for argument

 

[xjbubba]

Don't forget about the track bar. With high, crossover steering, the track bar mount on the passenger side axle is quite high.
I took out my oil pan with mine!