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Finally started lifting my 99 XJ ... need thoughts

X

xdarrows

NAXJA Forum User
Location
North Carolina
Greetings, NAXJA Forum!

I am the original owner of a 99 XJ Sport Upcountry with SelecTrac which I ordered from the factory in late 1998. Over the years, I had all of the best intentions to build it out, but other priorities also came between me and my dreams.

Recently, I had to decide between getting rid of it and buying a new Wrangler or keeping it and building it out ... so, I decided to start building!

It´s been difficult, stationed overseas, and dealing with a German garage that´s never lifted an XJ, but so far, I've had installed:

Front Suspension:
ARB 2933 coils
ARB 60052 shocks
JKS ACOS
JKS HD adjustable track bar

Rear Suspension:
ARB CS033RA leafs w/ ARB U-Bolts
ARB 60053 Shocks

Wheels & Tires:
5x 31" BFG ATs on Mamba MR1X wheels
PowerStop Z36 slotted/drilled brakes and pads

Currently, the Jeep is sitting level at precisely 4" of lift and is getting a bit of driveline vibe. The vibration is most noticeable when I let off the gas at about 30-40 MPH (at which point there is almost a grinding sound).

In discussion with my garage, the next items to be ordered will likely be a full AA/Tom Wood SYE kit from Rusty´s and J-Axis control arms from Quadratec.

I don't have much in the way of available off-road to test the vehicle on where I live, but would like everyone's thoughts on the build so far and what I additions I need to ensure everything goes well when I finally do get it out to really play.

Thanks!!
 
Sounds a lot like my build. My specs are in my signature. Very happy with the build and have about 50,000 miles on it since the build started. I did have a set of JKS J-AXIS adjustable lower arms on my XJ. Unfortunately in spite of regular greasing they wore the threads out causing a loud clunking noise after about 40,000 miles. I replaced them with JKS J-FLEX arms. They do not ride as smooth as the J-AXIS arms but are re-buildable.

Good luck.
 
I'd drop the transfer case about an inch if you're going to be driving it while waiting for your slip yoke eliminator to come in. The sound you're hearing isn't good. Look at the yoke on the rear shaft where it enters the transfer case and see if the ears on it have contacted the shaft, my bet is that it has.

It'll only do that for so long before it fixes itself, but you might not enjoy the result.
 
trippled said:
About the only thing I would add is sway bar disconnects and some longer brake hoses. And you should be able to do a lot with that set up
Click to expand...

Passenger side YJ parking brake cables, too. At 4-4.5" I notice the stock cables pull out of the backing plate when flexed.

I also can the rear sway bar when I build my leaf springs to no noticeable detriment. Built four or five of them that way so far.

Have you changed your bump stops yet? I ordered the wrong ones from amazon the first time, but made them fit on a bench grinder, and they are like riding on a cloud. Ordered the right set that popped right in for my next build, and you can definitely feel every hit.

Unless you hit something really hard, you can hardly tell you reached the stops on the wrong ones, so I'll be ordering those for the next one.
 
Overland said:
Passenger side YJ parking brake cables, too. At 4-4.5" I notice the stock cables pull out of the backing plate when flexed./QUOTE]

He won't need cables on a '99, the factory one's work up 6" lift!
Click to expand...
 
Overland said:
I'd drop the transfer case about an inch if you're going to be driving it while waiting for your slip yoke eliminator to come in. The sound you're hearing isn't good. Look at the yoke on the rear shaft where it enters the transfer case and see if the ears on it have contacted the shaft, my bet is that it has.

It'll only do that for so long before it fixes itself, but you might not enjoy the result.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Overland.

I'm in the USA for a couple of weeks and will order the SYE kit on Monday. Hopefully, it'll arrive no long after my return.

I spoke with my garage about the install and they're onboard ... I was worried that a German garage wouldn't let me drive out in Front Wheel Drive (NP242 set in "4 FULL TIME") with the SYE installed and no rear drive shaft. They don't have any parking (being in the middle of a city) and I just need to creep the Jeep three miles back to my driveway for the 3 weeks it will take Rusty's to get me the drive shaft built and shipped over.
 
You can drive as far and fast as you want in front wheel drive, I've done it a few times with a bag taped over the rear output for various reasons.

Feels unnatural cornering, and shifting a five speed, especially so.
 
Overland said:
I also can the rear sway bar when I build my leaf springs to no noticeable detriment. Built four or five of them that way so far.

Have you changed your bump stops yet?
Click to expand...

With the Upcountry package, my rear sway bar was automatically deleted. I've never noticed a problem in the last 19+ years without it! :cheers:

As far as the bumpstops go ... the JKS ACOS has a rubber bumper on the end of it ... don't know if that's enough or what I need ... ???

I the rear, I have the the ones like these:
https://www.quadratec.com/products/52422_01.htm
 
dktool said:
The pictures of the correct verses incorrect look the same except for the top diameter, is that just an image error or ??
Click to expand...

My guess is they pop into the retainer on a TJ but I've never fooled with that model. Having purchased both sets, I can tell you the outside dimension is the same until the retaining area, where one tapers in for XJ, the other continues at the same angle. I turned them on a bench grinder with a caliper handy until I had them close, then continued until they snapped into the retainers securely. Must have worked, because they're still in there and I'm not nice to it.

The center hole is larger on the wrong set, resulting in a softer ride. The right set is thicker as a result, and you can certainly feel it when you hit the stops, which in these trucks, is often.
 
xdarrows said:
With the Upcountry package, my rear sway bar was automatically deleted. I've never noticed a problem in the last 19+ years without it! :cheers:

As far as the bumpstops go ... the JKS ACOS has a rubber bumper on the end of it ... don't know if that's enough or what I need ... ???

I the rear, I have the the ones like these:
https://www.quadratec.com/products/52422_01.htm
Click to expand...

I run about the same thing in the back.

ACOS went over my head at first, but if I recall correctly, it's an adjustable bump stop and spring spacer in one.

I drive one front wheel onto a forklift and raise it until it picks up a rear wheel, then set it down until it's on three again. At that point, I'll inspect everything underneath for clearance, turn the wheel one way, check, other way, check, etc. That's how you'll set up adjustable bump stops.

For blasting down dirt roads with the occasional arroyo that only becomes visible at the last second, I've found the default for all my builds. I flog them hard over fairly rough terrain, only slowing down for the bigger dips, rocks, cattle, etc. Surprised I haven't bent an upper control arm bracket.
 
I run a 4 inch DPG/OME lift with stock flares/wheel wells. I have 31 inch BFG AT tires on Jeep Ravine wheels. Even with the front sway bar disconnected I have never had tire contact in the front or the rear. I did add bump stops at the front and rear. Front has the hockey puck style. Rear has DPG bump stops.
 
bwinter1946 said:
I run a 4 inch DPG/OME lift with stock flares/wheel wells. I have 31 inch BFG AT tires on Jeep Ravine wheels. Even with the front sway bar disconnected I have never had tire contact in the front or the rear. I did add bump stops at the front and rear. Front has the hockey puck style. Rear has DPG bump stops.
Click to expand...

Thanks, bwinter1946!!

Sounds like I'm good. I have the JKS ACOS (w/ built-in bump stop). I am running the longer (MJ?) OEM bump stops in the rear.
 
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