Finally Buying a Welder (Advice Needed)

[Goose_XJ88]

Hey all, I know asking in a more fab oriented section of the forum might get a faster response but I trust your guy's opinions more than Joe-nobody.

I'm going to buy my first welder and looking for advice. I know i want it to be Gas compatible but a few other items/gadgets are on the wish list. (Multiprocess, multi input voltage)


I'm currently torn between buying a cheaper name brand 110V machine to learn on or buy an awesome all-in-one machine for the one-time purchase.

The cheaper 110v will get me started fast and will treat me well for a while with the ability to upgrade down the road as I improve. The other side to that is the same concept we see with lifts; spend the money once for a nice setup and be good for the life of your rig.

Quick thoughts:
-Don't want to start with a 220v because of the difficulty using it on thinner bodywork and I don't have the garage currently wired for 220.
-Thinking a MP due to limited garage space for multiple welder setups



Long short: here are the machines I am considering

-Lincoln 125/140 (110v mig only) can find for ~$350 used on CL
-Millermatic 220MP (110/220v multi-process mig/tig/arc) Brand New $3,000
- Lincoln 210MP (110/220v multi-process mig/tig [no aluminium]/arc) ~1,500-$2,000


Let me know thoughts or other machines I should consider.
arty:

 

[blondejoncherokee]

Hobart 190 220v or the hobart 140 for 110v

 

[Phil]

A 110V welder, with proper technique and good fitment and joint preparation, should do just about anything you need on an XJ short of axle swaps and big heavy plate bumpers - and it’ll do a fine job of tacking brackets in place to take to a heavier welder.

A 220V welder set to “party” can make up a lot of shortcomings in preparation, fitment, or sobriety.

A 110V welder is easier to run off of a generator if the worst should happen on a trail, or an extension cord off the side of the house for a gate, or a favor for a neighbor, or whatever.

Get a high quality 110V wirefeed and keep notes of who has a 220V for when you need to burn in link brackets.

 

[Milford Cubicle II]

I have an ESAB as well and would highly recommend it. I've only had it for about 2 years now so I can't attest to its longevity beyond that, but so far I've put quite a few hours on it and it's worked flawlessly.

Plus it's an American company, and I like that :us:

I'll reiterate what I said in another thread. I have the ESAB 215ic and I love it.

It seems like it fits the bill for what you're looking for. It's 220 but runs on 110 as well, so you have a lot of flexibility.

 

[EricsXJ]

A 110V machine is fine so long as you run flux-core and .035 wire on anything remotely structural. The problem is most people are unable to (or choose not to) use flux-core because they don't have the patience and skill to do it right.

110V running gas should only be used for sheet metal work IMO.

 

[Goose_XJ88]

Good to know Eric. Can you expand upon your reasoning?

Does fluxcore give better penetration when you are limited by the machine on how hot you can burn?

 

[EricsXJ]

Yes fluxcore burns hotter than gas. Part of that is the size of the wire. .035 wire is common size for fluxcore and the larger wire carries more current than the common sizes for solid wire which is .030 and smaller (as far as I know...) Plus the base metal doesn't have to be 100% clean is it does if you are running gas.

 

[Bryan C.]

I had a really nice Tig/Arc machine for a minute. I felt it was overkill for using on an XJ. It was nice for clean and new metal fabrication but any sort of contaminant would cause issues. Sold it and bought a practically new Millermatic 210 off of Craigslist for about half of retail. MIG is a little less versatile than TIG but definitely more useful and user friendly in the long run.