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E-code H4 headlight conversion with comparison pics Cheaper than Silverstars

got the autopals in today and installed them. all i can say is damn! this should have been the first mod i did! the light pattern is way more full and direct than my existing wagners. i can't wait to see them shine with a new harness!
 
1bolt said:
Now that's interesting I wonder what states?

I recall from somewhere (Dan Stern's lighting faq I think) that Oregon, Washington, Alaska, Mass, and Canada all specifically allowed e-codes. There were a handful of states whose vehicle codes failed to specify a beam pattern requirement and just specify allowable colors.
 
I have half a harness installed, that is, I had enough wire to do the passenger side headlight, but not the driver's side. I picked up some wire at Lowes so I should be able to finish up this weekend, but I can say without a doubt that the passenger (new harness) light is MUCH brighter than the driver's (stock wiring) light. I also just got in a set of Philips +80 H4 bulbs from the UK and I expect them to brighten things up considerably, too.
 
I'm not sure about the other states, but Washington, and Oregon have adopted FMVSS #108.

I believe all states will cite FMV Saftey standards as the "de facto" standard of how car equipment is supposed to be.
 
I tried to find the instructions to make the home made relay harness but the link was no longer available. Anyone know another place to find it? I bought a kit off ebay but who knows what it will look like.

PS - after reading this thread, I ordered the Autopals. I hope that they are as remarkable as everyone reports.
 
^ yes, they will make a very noticable difference.

Second, do a search. I've seen countless threads floating around about aftermarket/homebrew wiring upgrades.
 
Vertigo said:
I tried to find the instructions to make the home made relay harness but the link was no longer available. Anyone know another place to find it? I bought a kit off ebay but who knows what it will look like.

PS - after reading this thread, I ordered the Autopals. I hope that they are as remarkable as everyone reports.
here's my writeup

http://fitchva.com/jeep/?p=57
 
^ FitchVA has the best writeup for the headlight harness that I have seen. Just finished up mine tonight, using his directions, and it works great. The Philips X-treme Vision +80 bulbs are fantastic, highly recommended as well.
 
I also used Fitch's writeup as a guide when doing my harness. Very well written and illustrated.

Between the Autopals and the wiring harness, I can't believe the difference in lighting. I still find myself with my low beams on thinking I have my old high beams on.
 
RichP said:
Only one modification, point those relay bases DOWN, you will get condensation in there and they need to drain out. Just based on experience.
agreed. that's why when you look at this pic...

IMG_8726_01.jpg


they're slanted downward. i couldn't mount them straight up and down because of the main wiring loom/harness was right there. i feel that they're pointed down enough where the water can still run out.
 
lawsoncl said:
I recall from somewhere (Dan Stern's lighting faq I think) that Oregon, Washington, Alaska, Mass, and Canada all specifically allowed e-codes. There were a handful of states whose vehicle codes failed to specify a beam pattern requirement and just specify allowable colors.

I didn't realize that we had been annexed. :confused:


lol Yes, e-codes are legal up here.

IIRC DOT guidelines aren't so much about the beam pattern as they are about pecentage of light distribution above and below centreline of the lens.

WRT the H4 conversion sold on Quadratec that doesn't utilize the E-code beam pattern, unless e-codes are not legal in your area AND the authorities charged with ensuring compliance are overly zealous in checking headlights, I wouldn't waste the money on them. If you're going to go to an H4 conversion you might as well go for the full-pull and get the e-codes. The main reason they are so effective in the first place is the fact that they direct the light to where it's needed rather than just having an illuminated blob a'la DOT guidelines.
 
Installed my AutoPal lights from eBay last week. HUGE improvement over the "Wagner Brite Lites" that were in there.

DOT can go f%7k themselves...much of the time, the people who create the laws are hypocrites and don't know their arse from a hole in the ground. Not to mention, these don't look like aftermarket lights. If you're gonna get pulled over for lighting, chances are the officer spotted something else first (tires sticking out from flare-less fenders, off road lights with no covers on them, etc) and noticed the headlights second.

Anyhow...if you are having trouble finding them on ebay, they are not listed as a regular auction. Search for autopal cherokee and scroll all the way down to the bottom of the results to where the storefront listings are.

If the lights are $3.99, they are not the right ones. I think mine were around $40.

Anyhow...well worth the money. Much cleaner pattern and much more light. I am running the 55w/100w bulbs.
 
cdn_xj said:
I didn't realize that we had been annexed. :confused:


lol Yes, e-codes are legal up here.

IIRC DOT guidelines aren't so much about the beam pattern as they are about pecentage of light distribution above and below centreline of the lens.

WRT the H4 conversion sold on Quadratec that doesn't utilize the E-code beam pattern, unless e-codes are not legal in your area AND the authorities charged with ensuring compliance are overly zealous in checking headlights, I wouldn't waste the money on them. If you're going to go to an H4 conversion you might as well go for the full-pull and get the e-codes. The main reason they are so effective in the first place is the fact that they direct the light to where it's needed rather than just having an illuminated blob a'la DOT guidelines.

I've kinda looked at the DOT guidelines as more of a protection of corporate profits for the sealed beam manufacturers more than anything, that they keep junk from being sold in the past was just pure luck and not intentional on their part. Now there is alot of junk lights being sold as better, thats unfortunate.
 
FitchVA said:

I see you used 10g wire for the power to the headlights. I was just perusing a wire selection chart, and while the wire you use would definitely be sufficient (actually sufficient to carry 480 watts up to 20 feet) I wonder if it is necessary. I am thinking that to run one high beam element of 100w, (about 9 amps) 14g is sufficient up to 30 feet. I normally wouldn't say anything, but I am going to build a harness, and purchased some relay connectors from NAPA, and they are pre wired with 14g. I am having a hard time figuring how it will benefit me to attach 10g wire to a 14g wire.
 
Love2Ride450 said:
I see you used 10g wire for the power to the headlights. I was just perusing a wire selection chart, and while the wire you use would definitely be sufficient (actually sufficient to carry 480 watts up to 20 feet) I wonder if it is necessary.
:spin1: yeah, i tend to do some things a little overkill. i am currently planning on making a new harness for my other xj that will use 1 wire per relay and then t-off at the light. it will really cut down on the wire needed. that's kinda how i ran my roof top lights and have worked out really well so far.
 
Daniel Stern recommends 12 gauge, I think. I went with 10 since overkill is good, right?
 
RichP said:
I've kinda looked at the DOT guidelines as more of a protection of corporate profits for the sealed beam manufacturers more than anything, that they keep junk from being sold in the past was just pure luck and not intentional on their part. Now there is alot of junk lights being sold as better, thats unfortunate.

LOL I'm glad you mentioned that because that is PRECISELY why E-codes were not DOT approved in the first place.

I just didn't say so 'cause I didn't want to get labelled as a troublemaking Canadian. lol

:cheers:
 
I built myself a new wiring harness this evening. Before removing the old setup, I started my Jeep, turned on the lights, and measured voltage at the battery, (about 14.5v). Then I measured voltage at the light (about 12.9). I had a 1.6 volt drop! After installing a relay setup with 14g wire to the low beam, I had a drop of .15 volts. I have to get another fuse holder for the high beam relay, so I currently have no high beam, but I'll finish tomorrow. I'll take some pics too. I didn't cut out the stock headlight connector on the passenger side, so I can change back to the stock wiring on that light for pics easily. I will be ordering some autopal housings soon, and have decided I will change my wiring somewhat so I can test the "dual filament theory". If I just switch the pin on my relay, when I go to high beams I will have both filaments. I will see how long it takes to kill the bulb before I install my H4's
 
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