E-code H4 headlight conversion with comparison pics Cheaper than Silverstars

Love2Ride450 said:
I see you used 10g wire for the power to the headlights. I was just perusing a wire selection chart, and while the wire you use would definitely be sufficient (actually sufficient to carry 480 watts up to 20 feet) I wonder if it is necessary. I am thinking that to run one high beam element of 100w, (about 9 amps) 14g is sufficient up to 30 feet. I normally wouldn't say anything, but I am going to build a harness, and purchased some relay connectors from NAPA, and they are pre wired with 14g. I am having a hard time figuring how it will benefit me to attach 10g wire to a 14g wire.
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You want to go a bit bigger to minimize the voltage loss. 12-gauge is probably fine. I used 10-gauge to the relays and the first headlight and 12-gauge from therer to the second headlight. I'm getting less than .1 volts drop through the wiring when I compare voltage at the headlight versus at the battery. I had 1.5 volts drop before.
 
Yea I'm about to switch them back to standard 0 or maybe 1 gauge. the double zero is just too big, like a garden hose. It's pretty tough to flex, so where it is bent the insulation has started to crack. I got a bunch of it for free and just wanted to see how ridiculous it really was lol.
 
Blaine B. said:
That's more like it.

I run dual power and dual grounds on my Jeep of 4 gauge each. So I guess that equals 2 gauge?
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Dual 4-ga actually has about 25% more cross-section area so it should flow about 25% more than a single 4-ga. Assuming AWG guages, here's a cool page to calculate voltage drop, size, etc. http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm My 95 FSM shows 16-ga from the headlight switch and 18-gauge for the ground from the headlight (only goes a few feet). Given that, I can easily see why 10% voltage drop at the headlights is typical.
 
DanMan2k06 said:
Yea I'm about to switch them back to standard 0 or maybe 1 gauge. the double zero is just too big, like a garden hose. It's pretty tough to flex, so where it is bent the insulation has started to crack. I got a bunch of it for free and just wanted to see how ridiculous it really was lol.
Click to expand...

Try hitting a welding shop or farming supply house. Welding cable comes in large sizes, is usually available in red or black, and is very flexible as it uses a larger number of finer strands. The jacket on the cabling is usually a rubber and cut resistant, unlike the crappy pvc you get on cheap battery cables. The jacket also doesn't have to be as thick as it doesn't have to be rated for 600-volts like common household wiring. Welding voltages are usually less than 60-volts.
 
^ hehe already ahead of you. I used to work at a welding shop, hence the free-ness of the wire. It was already a little old when I got it, so I'm sure that helped with the rotting. As for flexibility, for 2/0 I would say yes it is extremely flexible. But when compared to the 12 or 10 gauge that was there before, there's a huge difference lol. I'll go buy some more this week, just sucks when it's $4 a foot...
 
Does Autopals carry the made harnesses? Other wise I can go to fitchva's website. I just figgered it would make sense. Is Auto Pals the best place and where everyone is going to get their setups? Thanks, as I think I will be doing this upgrade too. Might be able to clear traffic better.

Jeff
 
ryxj said:
Here's another vote for the AutoPal's!! Just got them and installed them, and WOW! What a difference!!
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I second that. I haven't upgraded the wiring yet, but they are still substantially better than the stockers.
 
This is an awesome thread. Tons of good info! I've had an XJ of every 4.0L generation (87-90 4.0, 90-96 4.0 H.O., and 97+) and although the old wiring was pretty bad, the 97+ is even worse! I think they use 20 awg or something similar...how pathetic!

Anyway, I helped my buddy with a DIY harness on an '88 running old school e-code Hellas and the light output is AWESOME. I got some new e-code Hellas running 55/60 but I didn't have time to do the harness. I went from "good" sealed beam regular halogens straight to the e-codes and while the light output is more, and the pattern is great, it isn't night and day. So I want to do the harness but I still don't have time (getting married and building a house...). So I want a premade harness. So I either want to pay one of you to build me a harness or I'd like to get one of those ones on eBay. I just don't have the cash to pony up $80+ for a Hella harness.

So anyone want to build me a harness? If not which of these is better?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Harn...006QQitemZ160199537757QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...Track=true&ssPageName=VIP:Watchlink:middle:us

Thanks!
 
I ordered up a set of E-code lights from Autopal based on this thread and I started ordering my parts for the harness today. Per FitchVA's writeup, I spent about $60 shipped in all the parts I needed. The delcity site that he lists has a lame $25 minimum order. I'll probably have some of the wire left over, but not much. It almost makes me second guess making my own harness. I could have spent another $20ish dollars and had one that was already finished.
 
The second ones... You want "E" code housings...not diamond cut clear lens.

The first set are just clear lens H4 conversion housings. They'll work on with some nice bulbs, its what Im running now. But Im switching to the "E" codes after reading this thread...

J.
 
Just submitted my offer of 22.01 plus shipping for a total of $38....if I don't upgrade the harness for a while due to lack of time/money...am I still going to notice enough of a difference to be happy with these with the 60/55w bulbs that come with them???

NOTE: I have installed GE Xtra-bright sealed beams about a year and a half ago.
 
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